Well, what a coincidence.... allow me to follow in Factory's foot steps and add my 2 cents worth of vintage power stuff, that I have been working on yesterday and today. Am just finished, now ready to post about it
So last evening I decided to start tackling the stuff I got in my big haul 2 weeks ago.
I have a "black box" that I decided to take home purely for parts. It's unbranded, not a even a front panel to speak of, it just looked like some kind of custom, special purpose power supply module... .I thought I could salvage the power components from it.
So I did that yesterday.
Lots of cool stuff :
- 2 big ass heat sinks, with cool threaded metal inserts embedded on their ends, where the enclosure screws into. The heatsink are actually the sides of the enclosure itself, they ARE the sides... clever. This way the rest of the enclosure is just a 'U' shaped thick piece of aluminium, and at the top, a grilled panel for convective passive cooling.
- On each heatsink, x4 2N4347 TO3 NPN trannies, 120V 5A, so X8 total.
- x10 sub ohm wire-wound resistors : x4 0.1R + x4 0.27R + x2 0.47R
- x8 beefy stud diodes / rectifiers : 1N3880R, 100V 6A . Date codes say year 1974.
- x2 big ass filter caps, made by SAFCO, must be top notch stuff then, I guess.... so will keep them.
Then inside, there are 2 circuit boards. One looks to be for voltage regulation, the other more a power interface board to drive the power trannystors.
On these boards I got :
- A metal cased, luxurious looking trim pot
- x7 plastic trimmers of a kind I have never seen before. They are sealed / potted underneath, and the knob at the top has.. .DETENTS ?!
Wow.... never seen such refinement in a trimmer.
- x2 cute little red anodized heat sinks for TO39 metal transistors.
- x2 LM305H Vreg , cute T039 with gold plated leads. Datasheet says 4.5V to 40V... not sure how useful is that, but I will keep them anyway because as always, these old voltage regulators look so sexy. Plus, you never know, maybe one day I will need one to fix some vintage piece of TE some day.
- x4 TO3 2N3055, made by RCA. So the good quality old 2N3055, not the modern shitty ones they manufacture these days. So I will treasure these.
Then this evening I realized how stupid I was.... got a Eureka moment and decided there was an obvious and much better thing to do with this old PSU... suddenly scrapping the enclosure was not an option anymore, at all.
My electronic load... now that I have debugged it and this "prototype" / concept is now proven to work, I now need to put it together nicely so I can actually use it ! Need an enclosure for it, to hold everything tidily and safely, make it a practical TE.
Well.... this old PSU I just took apart would make a lovely case !
It looks nice, black anodized, sturdy, with x8 holes at the front already (where the stud diodes used to be mounted), that I could use as a front panel to put binding posts, switches, and the panel mount 10 turn pot.
I could reuse the two massive heat sinks (required anyway since they are a structural part of the enclosure), and this way have a gigantic amount of cooling = the big heat sink I am using on my prototype currently weighs 260g , but the ones in the PSU are about 30% larger in all 3 dimensions, and have more fins. They weigh 860g each so 1720g of metal in total, about 7 times more than the other heat sink !
I could put my 3 IRF 630 MOSFET on one heat sink..... and put 3 more (have plenty of them) on the other H/S .... could make for a REAL BEEFY load !!!
Something I could rely on, that won't boil or explode...
Inside, the two boards were inserted nicely on vertical guides.
So.... I stripped the PSU from everything. All wires, can caps etc... then gave it a good clean.
Cleaned the H/S as well.
Now I have a marvelous enclosure, ready for me to make a kick ass electronic load with !!!
All I have to do is design a board of my own, inspired by Zoli's design / schematic, that would slide into these vertical guides. Neat.
Then put a few WW 0.1R resistors in // for a chunky bullet proof current shunt.
Then add my 10 turn pot on the front panel, jacks to connect the load and the power supply to power the board inside.
Since that load would be able to deal with literally tens of amps, I could also add a switch at the front, to select from a few current ranges, I don't know, something like : 1A max, 5A max, 10A max, and 50A max. The switch would wire a different feedback resistor for the shunt amplifier.
Two benefits :
1) It would make it impossible to accidentally vastly overload / cause damage to the device under test.
2) It would increase the current resolution of the 10 turn pot. On the 50A range, would not be easy to finely control the current under 500mA say... but doing so on a 1A range would be perfect of course.
Oh yeah I like where this load project is going !!
Let's to it !!!
All I need to buy is a few good quality binding posts. Getting the PCB manufactured would be cheap I guess, being only single sided and the board not too large. Not tiny either, but not super large either.
Any objection to this project ? A fundamental flaw, an elephant in the room that I failed to see ?!
I am excited !!