Products > Thermal Imaging
Disassemble a FLIR ONE PRO 3 Philip infrared camera 拆解一个FLIR ONE PRO 3菲力尔红外热像仪
k8943:
Getting ready to wire the buck module to the FLIR. But whenever I plug my iPhone (unlocked) to the lightning connector there is never any voltage at the test point (circled purple)???
k8943:
Inside the battery.... thermistor the black coloured component parallel to the beige capacitor (I think!).
Wired up the buck module but still don't get any voltage on the blue wire when iPhone connected. iPhone can power out like Android? (Everyone else here seems to be on Android phones with USBC connectors?)
Propretor:
I have an Android.
Micro-USB & USB Type-c have 5V on the control contact. I have tested this. I can't say anything about the Apple connector. I don't have it.
The contact that you used MUST BE 5B. Perhaps OTG needs to be enabled in your smartphone.
Propretor:
You did everything right, but
1. Remove the white wire. He's not needed.
2. Wrap the stabilizer with insulating tape and glue the double-sided tape to the thermal imager board.
3. Find 5V on the board. Without this, nothing will work for you.
4. The soldering is not of high quality wires to the board.
5. Clean the flux after soldering.
k8943:
Was unable to find a connection between the end of the ribbon cable at the +5v pad and any of the pads on the lightning connector. (However GND and data were all connected.) So FLIR's connector has the 5v disabled. The sensible thing to do would be to find another lightning connector and follow your plan, @Propretor, but instead decided to have a different type of fun.
(see photos)
Wired a 660mAh battery from Amazon via a switch to the FLIR. Either the FLIR is on or the battery is connected to its charge connector. Works quite well and no need to access the FLIR's on/off switch. The FLIR cannot drain the battery when it is off and because it's a single cell FLIR software shows the state of charge (there's a procedure for calibrating by doing some kind of reset after a full charge - haven't bothered yet!).
3d printed a case in ABS so could acetone-weld (solvent) a 3d printed Quadlockcase connector to the back which allows attachment to my iPhone case as well as a tripod mount (do that sometimes if eg making video of stepper driver under load). However it was stupid to print in transparent plastic because stray light causes interference with the sensor. Anyway already feels more robust that the original and look forward to seeing how battery performs.
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