Flir One Gen 3 how disassembly (red light)?

[Stereo]

Hi, after about 1.5 year I charge flir one gen 3 (not pro), use it then start charge second time, but only red light and nothing.

I search internet but can't search how it's disassembly, maybe some one knows?

[Fraser]

The F1G3 has two screws holding its case together. They are located at each end of the casing but hidden under covers that you can pop off. No glue is used. I will add a picture in a moment.

Good luck repairing your unit. I also have one that just displays a red led and these can be real pigs to repair.

Fraser

[Fraser]

A picture showing the screw cover removed from one end of the camera. Another cover and screw are located at the opposite end of the case.

The case parts then slide apart.

Fraser

[Stereo]

Thanks for quick replay  I have not pro version, I will search something like covers on pro tomorrow and then replay!

[tmbinc]

For the non-Pro Flir One gen 3, you need to lift the sticker, unfortunately.

[Stereo]

I don't know what to think, guys 

[tmbinc]

Huh, sorry. Maybe they changed the design?

[shag]

What bit is used to take it apart? I've tried all my security torx and none work. It looks a little different than normal torx but I can't tell. Any help is greatly appreciated!

[Stereo]

normal torx

yes its T6

So I finnaly disassembly my device (there is two layers stickers) and found next things:

1) battery is fully discharged, do I charge from lion charger
2) plug in back but nothing
3) plug in charger but same thing - red+green light
4) power consumption ~0.75ma
5) found chip "sonix" overheating even already melting plastic

See photos attached..

What you say Fraser, its repareble? 

[Fraser]

If that Sonic USB controller is getting hot enough to melt plastic it is clearly in trouble. The chip is a USB2.0 camera controller and likely dedicated to just the visible light camera. Have you tried removing the board that the visible light camera and controller are mounted on ? If not, try removing it and see whether the camera will boot in that boards absence. If it does, you know where to concentrate your efforts. The Sonix 9C271M controller IC has either suffered an internal failure or something very unpleasant has happened to a power supply rail coming from it. Either way, it is likely you will need to source and fit a new Sonix 9C271M controller IC. The 9C271M contains two voltage regulators so it could be a failure in one of those regulators or a short on one of the regulated voltage outputs. If you are very fortunate it will be a shorted MLC capacitor overloading the 9C271M regulator and the regulator may include over temperature shutdown. The melted plastic does look a bit ominous though.

http://www.sonix.com.tw/article-en-996-7883

9C271M datasheet:

http://www.sonix.com.tw/download/file?4c8a7923fa7e4e8aa7688b92523a3837

If the camera were mine, I would try to repair it as this looks like a fault that may be rectifiable without resorting to BGA rework on the processor or memory IC’s 

Fraser

[Fraser]

First step is to quickly check all voltages in and out of the 9C271M chip. The datasheet provides details. Make sure the 3.3V input power rail is 3.3V ! Over voltage is not tolerated by this IC. Then look for the regulated voltage outputs from the IC  to see if any are present. Any that are low in level or missing should be noted. It is possible that the fault is causing all voltages to be low, or absent. The input supply rail from the main board could be suffering an over current situation as well. I note the hot trace on the thermal image of the main board.

Do not operate the camera for long with this fault present as such could cause further damage. After the voltage checks are completed, remove the daughter board that holds the Sonix chip and visible light camera. As this is basically a USB web cam interfaced to the main board it is possible that the camera will still boot without the presence of the ‘web cam’ USB input. If not you will need to start investigating what is happening on the daughter board to cause overheating of the Sonix chip, fix it and reinstall the board for further tests. The Sonix chip may be common in web cams from laptops but sadly I have no information on which laptops use it. If you find a Sonix based web cam you could connect it to the main board USB input as a replacement for the fault board to establish whether the main board will boot or has other issues.

Sadly repairing these cameras can be a time consuming business to do consider the value of the camera, the cost of repair parts and how much you value your time. In some cases it is a better idea to just buy another used camera and move forward. There is enjoyment to be had and knowledge to be gained by repairing kit like this though. That is why I repair thermal cameras as a hobby 

Fraser

[Stereo]

OMG)

Begin to study your instructions tomorrow 

THX!!

[Classy Penguin]

Hello everyone , I also came across your forum due to a red light problem with my Flir Gen 3 iOS.

I used a Torx T6 just as Fraser described, but it turns out mine is a T4 after all.

Now I had ordered a battery, which is not suitable and therefore wanted to ask where I get a new battery as quickly and cheaply as possible.
Have so far found only 450-500mAh batteries, but do not know if that fits, because the Flir standard has a 350mAh battery.

Would be happy if I get a response despite that it's been a bit longer where written here

[Fraser]

I bought my battery here….

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-For-FLIR-One-Pro-/304231145528?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

The 3rd party manufacturers have a habit of inflating the capacity of their replacement batteries to make them appear better than OEM. Do not worry about the claimed capacity as it just needs to be equal or greater than the original whilst fitting in the same space within the camera. I bought a Cameron Sino (CS) replacement cell as I have had good experiences with them in the past.

Sadly these lithium cells are not in a common, cheap, size so you do have to pay a bit more for them and I had to buy from China to get mine at a reasonable price. Some sellers are asking £30 for the cell but I paid £12 inc shipping and taxes.
Fraser

[Classy Penguin]

Okay, thanks for the quick reply.
Have now also found exactly the battery that has only 1-2 delivery time to me.
So once I get the replacement battery on Wednesday according to the website, I will write again in a week if it helped with my camera.
Have this namely bought on eBay as defective / dead and shows only a red light, also no longer charges (nothing is burned as with stereo the Sonix chip)

So thanks again for the quick reply and still have a nice weekend

[Classy Penguin]

Good evening

Now with me on Wednesday the battery arrived, which was also replaced today. Unfortunately without success, the Flir Gen 3 shows red light all the time 
Is there anything else I can try, on the board is at first glance nothing broken.

Would look forward to some feedback from you guys

[Fraser]

Connect to the cameras UART serial port and see if there is any signs of life. If a boot record is present, note what it says. If no boot record is being produced the processor is not operational.

Fraser

[Classy Penguin]

Okay, thanks for the quick reply
What is actually meant by UART serial port, the Type C port?
I've had the camera on the charger for an hour now, it still lights up red and won't turn off.
Is then with my Flir the CPU broken?

[Fraser]

There is a serial UART diagnostic port on the cameras PCB. I do not have the location to hand but it may be shown in one of the FLIR One G3 threads on this forum. You will need a USB to 3.3V UART interface to monitor the serial data coming from the diagnostic port.

Fraser

[sehbay]

Hello, did you find a solution?

[Stereo]

Now I hear planes flying in the sky and then explosions.  The sister is in Kyiv, and the brother is in Irpen (north of Kyiv, which is now being bombed by Russia).  Please, if you have the opportunity, I ask you to help with money for gasoline and food, as well as medicines, to people who are now hiding in basements.  Please, thank you very much.  Sorry for writing here, trying to survive!  I ask the administration not to ban at least for some time, we are really scared, the war has come to us (( Mastercard 5363542011132314 (Panchenko Yuriy Ivanovich) USDT (TRC20) TWquJ4Py4fy4mZwJT71FTcDGbH2YqFGzDi

[filtragem]

Hello,

Sorry to bring back this topic.

I also need to open my F1 Gen3 IOS to exchange the battery, and I am seeking information how to open it without damage.

I couldn't really understand from Stereo #8 post, if after the first sticker that he peeled on post #5 the black underneath (that he initially thought was the plastic house frame) is a second black sticker that needs also to be peeled, can anyone confirm?

After peeling all the stickers there is an opening/hole (like in tmbinc #6 post) or we need to pry something like the PRO version?

After accessing the hole we use a torx #6 and follow the existing PRO version tutorials to unscrew and disassembly the unit?

Anyone can recommend a replacement battery?

Thanks in advance for the help.
Fil

[xixou]

I just changed the battery of my USB C Flir gen 3 and created a video to show the steps.