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EEVblog #186 – Soldering Tutorial Part 3 – Surface Mount
Posted on July 18th, 2011 37 commentsPart 3 of the hand soldering tutorial. This time Dave shows you how to drag solder and tack & reflow SMD components, and in particular 0.5mm fine pitch IC’s. Including solder paste and hot air.
30 responses to “EEVblog #186 – Soldering Tutorial Part 3 – Surface Mount”
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lol the tweezers and iron look MASSIVE
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Hey Dave, where can i get the board you are using to solder the PIC24 chip?
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rftghost July 19th, 2011 at 02:29
Any idea how to attack this beast?
http://ro.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1631682
It is a very useful component class in a creepy package…
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Robert July 19th, 2011 at 16:52
That component is no different than any of the other ones he showed in the video. Same principles apply. The example he shows at 09:10 should work just fine.
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rftghost July 19th, 2011 at 20:38
Hmm… I think it is a different size group, and with multiple pins… The whole gate is the size of that resistor.
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Robert July 19th, 2011 at 23:56
If I’m reading the data sheet correctly the part you linked to is a SOT-353 package which has a pin pitch of 0.65mm. That’s actually larger than the PIC24 that Dave solders towards the end of the video.
Just try it, you’ll be surprised at how easy it is. Promise! (just remember to use a lot of flux, it really does help a bunch).
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I’m loving this soldering series, can’t wait to have a workbench again and get down to it!
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I’m loving this soldering series, can’t wait to have a workbench again and get down to it.
Congrats on another great episode and keep up the good work!
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Great series.
I did some research a few months ago on drag soldering, including different flux types and their strengths and weaknesses:
http://www.madhu.com/content/Main/DragSoldering
For an effective soldering tip, I got a fine point conical tip and filed it down so it looks a lot like commercial hoof tips. It works really well. I have soldered 0.5 mm pitch QFPs with no problems at all.
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Anonymous July 19th, 2011 at 08:19
Might be good to note that through hole is better from a prototyping perspective. SMT is good for compact device design and volume production, but in my experience most components are available DIP/SOP or, if not available in DIP someone has made a living breaking out the SOP package into a DIP package.
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At 34 minutes into this video, you mention “thermal paste”. I assume you mean solder paste, right? or are you seriously advocating putting thermal grease under a component for heat sinking? I’ve never tried that, but I’m very skeptical about it interfering with the soldering.
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Anonymous July 19th, 2011 at 16:23
Yeah I don’t think he meant thermal paste…especially considering most thermal pastes are dielectrics.
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There’s a technique that is related to SMD prototyping and reworking that is called the enamel wiring pen technique.
I’ve just ordered such a pen from http://www.rrunner.co.uk/pens/pens.htm and aspire to eventually do something that resembles the works of Markus Gritsch whose work you can find at http://elm-chan.org/docs/wire/wiring_e.html
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Great video Dave, in the first part by eye kept getting drawn to the damaged pad of U6. It wasn’t till the end of the video where I saw where that came from.
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Ray Jones July 23rd, 2011 at 09:07
Damn I’m a fool.
I tried using one of those bucket tips and had no luck whatsoever.
Now I know what I was doing wrong, the bucket has to face downwards. Duh!Only other comment is I’d be inclined to use the flux pen after you solder the first pad, then tack down the first pin.
IMHO the joints just don’t look properly wetted. -
Awesome! My tip for getting the right amount of solder when drag soldering is to bridge the first two pins, and then clean the tip. I’ve found that’s an easy way to get the right amount of solder out there. Sometimes it works fine just getting a ball on your tip, especially if your tip is specially designed for that. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUyetZ5RtPs
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Dave, thanks a lot for this tutorial! I’ve just assembled Arduino (SMD parts only) and it works great. No problems at all. Even those nasty 0.5mm FTDI chips are piece of cake – flux is the answer.
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Jayanth Acharya October 10th, 2011 at 19:02
Was redirected here from a reply on edaboard.com !
Does anyone have tips on doing good/reliable SMD soldering on DIY-at-home PCB’s, without soldermask ?
In my limited experience, my initial few attempts in such setups have not been very fruitful, rather quite frustrating. I’ve used the “generous use” of flux method, but lack of solder-mask means, extensive bridging and overlow (solder outside pads).
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rishiraj October 10th, 2011 at 22:57
good job dave excellent video on soldering sm devices i would request u to make a video for removing and resoldering (rework) of a input/output QFP chip on desktop laptop motherboards and also if possible,,,, to demonstrate BGA rework machines thanks
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Hi Dave
Nice tutorial, just wondering about the quality of joints after tacking and using the iron to re-heat the joint. Is this not a recipe for creating a dry joint even though the solder is fluxed.
Also could you do some research into diff. solder mixes. eg lead free/ with silver and melting temperatures. I’ve noted in several service repair manuals they advocate the use of such mixes.
Cheers and keep up the good work.
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Hi, Dave. Great video, as always. Can you mention whose flux you use and what you use to clean up the residue? I use Chip Quik flux that’s supposed to be no-clean, but I suspect that just means the residue won’t harm your board, because there’s definitely residue. In fact, they recommend alcohol if you want your boards clean, but that leaves a tacky, dust-collecting film on the board. I understand some other fluxes must be cleaned off or they’ll damage the board.
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Andrew July 18th, 2011 at 12:29