And presented in Dave's unique non-scripted overly enthusiastic style!
Dave goes Dumpster Diving again and scores a Samsung 42 PS-42S5H Plasma TV
Forum Topic HERE
Hi Dave, all roads lead to scaler EX-62, det signals are seperate. try soft solutions first as some monkey could have been in the factory menu to “up spec” the machine. google factory menu probrably something like POWER OFF-MUTE-1-8-2- POWER ON. any samsung tv remote will probrably do.
I would not turn on the blue screen.
If I was the designer, this override (blue) will be ‘after’ the different video inputs processing.
You see the tuner noise. You see th blue. You don’t see a mix. Same for any other inputs.
The menus are also added ‘near the end’ of video processing. That’s why you see them.
Maybe the fault is the sound. There is a ‘Melody’ menu under blue one !
Or it turns off after one hour. Or the remote wad dead
Most probably, like in europe, analog tuner is useless now. Samsung should manafacture a new video board if they were serious people.
Very good point worth a try! Dave would probably give more videos on that lol~
I would suggest to check all other inputs to isolate the problem with specific input.
As simplifyituk correctly said, you should check, if the settings have not been altered from service menu.
SAA7119 is a video processor & scalar IC. A quick look at the schematic from service manual should assist well in troubleshooting such fault.
Interesting excercise to fix this, but no more than that. The device is old, and has problems:
– It does not have a stand, and needs a very expensive mount to hold this very heavy beast
– The energy consumption is way to large, especially given that the diagonal size is rather modest for these days. So it will also be a serious heater
– It is most likely not a full HD (720 lines rather than 1080)
– Since this is a plasma and was connected to some external source (some computer showing some data?), the burn-in ghosts are most likely already there after such long life.
– The design is ugly – that old Samsung’s large circle that looks so expired today.
I’d tear it down for parts. Also would be interesting to get down to glass to see why exactly it is so heavy – what’s the thickness and structure of the glass assembly.
Freaking awesome; childproof Fruit Ninja screens and other outdoor console fun (The Ghooooost of the Niiiiintendo Wii) aren’t that easy to come by, so it’s not so bad (and even analog or digital burn-in correction) if you can overlook any built-in defrosters. Just change the startup logo to power consumption.
wehn you gonna get an electric screw driver you always put me to sleep with the manual one.
I have one. But I like to do it the old fashioned way.
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I’ve wrecked a few big plasmas, some with smashed panels. The panel appears to have three connections, X, Y (Row and Column) and the “keeper”, those big flat, high current straps at the opposite end to the X drivers. This third connection keeps the discharge alive somehow so its brightness can be varied but it is not totally extinguished.
All thosw blue film caps are somehow used to transfer charge off and onto the “Keeper” straps. Two inverse connected attays of MOSFETS do this task. If you pull the heatsink off and get bthe FET numbers, look ‘em up, they are very likely to be specially designed FETS for this specific purpose and a partial circuit will be civen in their application notes.
This also uses crest factor correction via a boos architecture circuit. This is what the big inductor is on the left of the heatsink opposite the two big 450v filter caps. At this power level a basic bridge follower directly by those huge caps would throw far too many nasty harmonics back into the mains.
Good wreck though. I used some ultra fast recovery “Shottky” diodes to fix my mothers “get about the shops” cart battery charger with scored from one of these. They lasted for iver 18 months before it faoled again, but she never turns the damn thing off, leave it running without a load, OUCH! and lets it get wet when it rains!
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