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EEVblog #1334 – Mystery Dumpster Teardown

Mystery dumpster teardown time! With the most amazing mechanical mains power switch you’ll ever see! ...


  1. Dave

    why not add some lock-tite or vibra-tite blue or green low strength hold to the grub screws. That will help a lot with vibration loosing. Don’t use the red or your screws will be permanent I think the blue low hold will work the best for this application. You may also know this as thread locker available at most auto and hardware stores for pennys great for loose door knobs too.

  2. You ought to do what RepRap have been recommending for years, take out the motor and smooth rods and file flats on them so the grub screws can be tightened properly. Not doing so is a recipe for slipping pulleys and plenty of failed prints down the line.

    It looks like there might be enough space to use m3 screws you can tighten properly, instead of the tiny grub screws that you are going to misplace.

  3. I joined the Sydney hackerspace where they used to have a Thingomatic. they replaced it with the UP printer. The tell me they had a lot of problems getting the thingomatic to work.
    I had never used any 3D printer before and got a perfect print on the first go
    Its interesting that Makerbot have gone to a finished product like the UP
    i think the UP is a better printer for the masses
    9I have no affiliation with UP)

  4. Had to look up the term “grub screws” in Wikipedia. (What a great name I’ve never heard of! They do look like little grubs.) In the US, they’re called set screws. Apparently, “grub screw” is another deviation between US and UK language variants like “spanner,” “boot,” “bonnet,” “aluminum,” and “suspenders”.


  5. Dave,

    You show at the end of the video homing the machine and it almost taking out your print. Any CNC type machine usually has a homing feature and it is to be used when initially turning on a machine so the software and hardware coordinates match, not after a machining operation.

    That being said, the Makerbot Replicator is meant to be a device for people who know nothing about machining or CNC generally, so I think they should have features that prevent things like that, or at least use layman language so people can operate the thing who have no machining experience.

    I have a CNC machine myself so I ended up learning a lot of the terminology while destroying parts I was making! Nice video, use some Loctite on those screws to compensate for the poor design.


  6. Yes! Finally someone writes about myjnie.

  7. At the beginning of the first video, when Mr. David unpackaged Makerbot, i was watching with my mouth opened like a little kid. But as video progressed, it closed fast enough and when i watched all the videos about Makerbot by Mr. David i felt that everyone who buy this thing is cheated. Why? Because it didn’t even worked correctly at the beginning. I suppose most people will encounter these problems or already encountered. You don’t have to be specialist in electronics to see obvious flaws. That little fan on the bottom – it just so obvious, that it does almost nothing, placing is awful. It had to be bigger or more of them and they should’ve been placed as Mr. David mentioned, on the side of the case. Manual calibration? Really? It doesn’t matter what kind of genius you are, it’s almost impossible to calibrate it right, at least it should’ve had sensors, which detect the spacing between printing plate and the head, and inform user if it’s ok or not, on best case it should calibrate itself or be permanently calibrated from the begining. Parts has to be really precise else you can get bad results. If it vibrates a lot its pretty obvious hat you have to place some antivibration stuff there and reduce speed. Software on the makerbot is not good at all. I wouldn’t even call it a prototype.
    It’s in development state and shouldn’t have reached the light yet. I would ask for a refund after 45min of using it. It doesn’t have “Made in USA” label on the box for apparent reasons.

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