California Home Wiring Code for Clothes Washing Machine

[DW1961]

A question about home electrical codes in California.

Does a clothes washer need it's own dedicated circuit?

I've also noticed that our clothes washing machine is plugged into a non GFCI receptacle, although there is a sink in the washroom less than 3' from it.

[bdunham7]

From a municipal guideline giving excerpts from the 2022 CEC (California Electrical Code)

Laundry Rooms
Electrical:
• All new or altered lighting shall be high efficacy. [CNC 150.0(k)1A]
• At least one light shall be controlled by a vacancy sensor (a manual-on, automatic-off
occupancy sensor). [CNC 150.0(k)2AJ
• All 125-volt receptacles in laundry areas GFCI protection, including the clothes washer
receptacle. [CEC 210.8A10].
• Receptacle outlets shall be tamper-resistant except those within dedicated space for an
appliance not easily moved from one place to another (behind clothes washer). [CEC 406.12A]
• A separate 20-amp circuit is required for the laundry equipment. The lights and other
receptacles in the room cannot be on that circuit [CEC 210C2].
• All circuits supplying outlets or devices in the laundry area (including laundry areas in garages)
must be AFCI protected [CEC210.12A]

So yes, you need a dedicated circuit for the "laundry equipment" although this would include not only the washer, but the dryer (gas) and perhaps other things like a clothes iron, steamer, etc.  GFCI required, but it appears you could have multiple outlets as long as they were just for the laundry equipment.  I would expect that most installations would use one duplex GFCI outlet and any other configuration could invite unwanted questions or objections from the inspector.

However, keep in mind that this is the 2022 CEC and if your installation was done some time ago, it would only be required to meet the code as of that date. 

[David Hess]

• Receptacle outlets shall be tamper-resistant except those within dedicated space for an
appliance not easily moved from one place to another (behind clothes washer). [CEC 406.12A]

Are they fucking kidding?  Those things are the opposite of safe because they so easily break leaving the operator to pound on the plug to either insert or remove it.  They are as bad as "spill proof" EPA fuel containers which leak fuel all over the place and take twice as long to empty.

[DW1961]

From a municipal guideline giving excerpts from the 2022 CEC (California Electrical Code)

Laundry Rooms
Electrical:
• All new or altered lighting shall be high efficacy. [CNC 150.0(k)1A]
• At least one light shall be controlled by a vacancy sensor (a manual-on, automatic-off
occupancy sensor). [CNC 150.0(k)2AJ
• All 125-volt receptacles in laundry areas GFCI protection, including the clothes washer
receptacle. [CEC 210.8A10].
• Receptacle outlets shall be tamper-resistant except those within dedicated space for an
appliance not easily moved from one place to another (behind clothes washer). [CEC 406.12A]
• A separate 20-amp circuit is required for the laundry equipment. The lights and other
receptacles in the room cannot be on that circuit [CEC 210C2].
• All circuits supplying outlets or devices in the laundry area (including laundry areas in garages)
must be AFCI protected [CEC210.12A]

So yes, you need a dedicated circuit for the "laundry equipment" although this would include not only the washer, but the dryer (gas) and perhaps other things like a clothes iron, steamer, etc.  GFCI required, but it appears you could have multiple outlets as long as they were just for the laundry equipment.  I would expect that most installations would use one duplex GFCI outlet and any other configuration could invite unwanted questions or objections from the inspector.

However, keep in mind that this is the 2022 CEC and if your installation was done some time ago, it would only be required to meet the code as of that date.

There are only two outlets in the washing area, 240 for the dryer and 120, which the washing machine is plugged into. I'm assuming that 120 outlet is it's own dedicated circuit?

[IanB]

A question about home electrical codes in California.

Does a clothes washer need it's own dedicated circuit?

I've also noticed that our clothes washing machine is plugged into a non GFCI receptacle, although there is a sink in the washroom less than 3' from it.

The answer to your question would depend on when the home was built, or when everything was installed, and what codes were applicable on that date.

Old installations were required to meet the code on the date of installation. They are not required to be updated when the code changes, unless the installation is being upgraded such as during a remodel.

[bdunham7]

There are only two outlets in the washing area, 240 for the dryer and 120, which the washing machine is plugged into. I'm assuming that 120 outlet is it's own dedicated circuit?

It should be by current code and AFAIK most of the recent previous ones.  Of course, I've no idea whether yours actually is or not.

[Nusa]

There are only two outlets in the washing area, 240 for the dryer and 120, which the washing machine is plugged into. I'm assuming that 120 outlet is it's own dedicated circuit?

Approximately how old is your home? Without that answer, no assumptions can be made, nor can we tell you what the requirements at the time were. As has already been said, residential electrical codes are grandfathered in most cases, and there is no requirement to bring existing wiring up to todays standard.

Looking at your circuit breaker panel may tell you how many circuits you have, and if there is a separate laundry room circuit (in addition to the 240V dryer circuit). Hopefully they're all labeled correctly.

In practical terms, there's no problem operating a typical washer on a shared circuit, if that's all you're worried about.

[Stray Electron]

From a municipal guideline giving excerpts from the 2022 CEC (California Electrical Code)

• Receptacle outlets shall be tamper-resistant except those within dedicated space for an
appliance not easily moved from one place to another (behind clothes washer). [CEC 406.12A]

   OK so what's California's rational for requiring that washing machine outlets be "tamper-resistant"?   I don't see how anyone would be more likely to "tamper" with that outlet than any other outlet in the house (most of which are probably much more accessible!)

[bdunham7]

   OK so what's California's rational for requiring that washing machine outlets be "tamper-resistant"?   I don't see how anyone would be more likely to "tamper" with that outlet than any other outlet in the house (most of which are probably much more accessible!)

All those other accessible outlets are also required to be tamper resistant.  Only those outlets that are deemed inaccessible to children can be without the tamper shield mechanism.

[amyk]

• Receptacle outlets shall be tamper-resistant except those within dedicated space for an
appliance not easily moved from one place to another (behind clothes washer). [CEC 406.12A]

Are they fucking kidding?  Those things are the opposite of safe because they so easily break leaving the operator to pound on the plug to either insert or remove it.  They are as bad as "spill proof" EPA fuel containers which leak fuel all over the place and take twice as long to empty.

It's California. What else did you expect?

For a more common-sense approach, check the peak amperage of your washing machine and see if the circuit you plan on putting it on will meet that rating. The GFCI requirement does sound like a good thing, however.

[DW1961]

There are only two outlets in the washing area, 240 for the dryer and 120, which the washing machine is plugged into. I'm assuming that 120 outlet is it's own dedicated circuit?

Approximately how old is your home? Without that answer, no assumptions can be made, nor can we tell you what the requirements at the time were. As has already been said, residential electrical codes are grandfathered in most cases, and there is no requirement to bring existing wiring up to todays standard.

Looking at your circuit breaker panel may tell you how many circuits you have, and if there is a separate laundry room circuit (in addition to the 240V dryer circuit). Hopefully they're all labeled correctly.

In practical terms, there's no problem operating a typical washer on a shared circuit, if that's all you're worried about.

It was built in 1961 and the kitchen w as recently remodeled and has GFCI circuits where they should be. however, the laundry room was not remodeled.

[DW1961]

   OK so what's California's rational for requiring that washing machine outlets be "tamper-resistant"?   I don't see how anyone would be more likely to "tamper" with that outlet than any other outlet in the house (most of which are probably much more accessible!)

California doesn't give 'rationale' for requirements. They give ultimatums. lol

[gnuarm]

As others have said, the circuits in the house only need to meet the code that was in effect at the time of installation.  So the washer may not be required to be on a separate circuit from other parts of the house. 

Also, GFCI protection can be provided to an entire circuit, by installing a GFCI receptacle on the first outlet of the circuit and appropriately connecting the wire running to the rest of the circuit.  This one receptacle then provides protection to the entire circuit.  So, look for the GFCI receptacle elsewhere, and verify the washer outlet is off, when you test the GFCI. 

GFCI is an important protection and should be installed even if not strictly required by grandfathered code.

[gnuarm]

   OK so what's California's rational for requiring that washing machine outlets be "tamper-resistant"?   I don't see how anyone would be more likely to "tamper" with that outlet than any other outlet in the house (most of which are probably much more accessible!)

California doesn't give 'rationale' for requirements. They give ultimatums. lol

Changes to the electrical code are typically made in reaction to accidents.  If you care to dig, I expect you can find these causes.

[DW1961]

   OK so what's California's rational for requiring that washing machine outlets be "tamper-resistant"?   I don't see how anyone would be more likely to "tamper" with that outlet than any other outlet in the house (most of which are probably much more accessible!)

California doesn't give 'rationale' for requirements. They give ultimatums. lol

Changes to the electrical code are typically made in reaction to accidents.  If you care to dig, I expect you can find these causes.

Typically, but back in the mid 90s CA passed a law that got rid of 40 watt florescent bulbs and replaced them with I think 33 watts. The rationale was to 'save energy'. But the dunce that pushed that through didn't realize that all of the fixtures were analyzed decades earlier to provide enough light to be conducive to human eyes, like in schools and shops. So what happened was that people and new installations  started buying extra lamps to make up for the shortfall in watts, but that actually increased energy usage. They got rid of the 33 watt bulb law. They had a lot of feedback from professionals on the issues be refused to back off until they realized people were installing extra fixture and using more energy.

[bdunham7]

California doesn't give 'rationale' for requirements. They give ultimatums. lol

The CEC is largely based on the NEC, so it isn't a California thing.

[DW1961]

• Receptacle outlets shall be tamper-resistant except those within dedicated space for an
appliance not easily moved from one place to another (behind clothes washer). [CEC 406.12A]

Are they fucking kidding?  Those things are the opposite of safe because they so easily break leaving the operator to pound on the plug to either insert or remove it.  They are as bad as "spill proof" EPA fuel containers which leak fuel all over the place and take twice as long to empty.

It's California. What else did you expect?

For a more common-sense approach, check the peak amperage of your washing machine and see if the circuit you plan on putting it on will meet that rating. The GFCI requirement does sound like a good thing, however.

I'm trying to figure out how I can charge our new EV at 12 amps from the 120 garage outlet. I'll just trip the offending breaker and test the sockets to see which are off and which are on that particular circuit.

It will charge ok without tripping the breaker, but if I try to run the micro -- snap!

I know from last night that the fridge, garage outlet, and microwave are on the same circuit. I'll check other outlets tonight. Hopefully i can rearrange the microwave so it's on another kitchen circuit and then if the washer is on its own circuit, I can charge 120 at 12A anytime without issues. Otherwise I'll have to watch it.

I've called the owner about the CA rebate for a 240 installation in the garage, but they only give you 1000.00 for installation and 250 for any permitting. If you want a 240 in your garage, and it costs more than that, you're out of pocket for it. He's interested but said if it will cost him too much, probably not.

The panel is only 100A also, so it may need a 200 A main installed, and if you can't just put a 200A main in it, then it would need a new panel. It would get expensive fast.

The outfit that is contracted to do the evaluations and installations will come out soon at let us know.

[bdunham7]

The panel is only 100A also,

What brand are the panel and breakers?

[gnuarm]

California doesn't give 'rationale' for requirements. They give ultimatums. lol

The CEC is largely based on the NEC, so it isn't a California thing.

The key word there is "largely".  Every state approves their own electrical code.

[bdunham7]

The key word there is "largely".  Every state approves their own electrical code.

True, but NEC 406.12A (2014) reads the same as CEC 406.12A in the excerpt that I quoted.  Tamper-proof receptacles are not a 'California' thing.  They're a PITA everywhere.

[gnuarm]

I'm trying to figure out how I can charge our new EV at 12 amps from the 120 garage outlet. I'll just trip the offending breaker and test the sockets to see which are off and which are on that particular circuit.

It will charge ok without tripping the breaker, but if I try to run the micro -- snap!

I know from last night that the fridge, garage outlet, and microwave are on the same circuit. I'll check other outlets tonight. Hopefully i can rearrange the microwave so it's on another kitchen circuit and then if the washer is on its own circuit, I can charge 120 at 12A anytime without issues. Otherwise I'll have to watch it.

I've called the owner about the CA rebate for a 240 installation in the garage, but they only give you 1000.00 for installation and 250 for any permitting. If you want a 240 in your garage, and it costs more than that, you're out of pocket for it. He's interested but said if it will cost him too much, probably not.

The panel is only 100A also, so it may need a 200 A main installed, and if you can't just put a 200A main in it, then it would need a new panel. It would get expensive fast.

The outfit that is contracted to do the evaluations and installations will come out soon at let us know.

I charge a model X from a 120V, 15A outlet.  Of course, the car only draws 12A because of the code limitations.  It works for me, but it is slow.  In 12 hours, I can charge around 50 miles, which is enough for average driving.  Other people won't be happy with that.

A wiring change I have thought of would be to upgrade the outlet to 240V, without running a new wire.  It would use a NEMA 6-15 outlet, which is rated for 240V, 15A.  This would provide more than twice the charging capacity, as there's some taken off the top to power various things in the car and efficiency issues. 

I have had discussions with people over the Internet, asking if this is legit.  The existing wires are black and white with a bare or green ground (don't remember which, but I think it's bare).  I found language in the NEC that allows the white wire to be marked with tape as a red wire (the other hot in a 240V line).  There is no requirement to have a neutral, and since the car doesn't need it, you will be good.  The only issue is if the electrician is happy marking the wire, vs. installing a new one.  This would be a very quick job for an electrician, so very inexpensive, and would more than double the charging rate. 

In your case, you would need to run a wire from the electrical panel, to where ever the line from the garage meets the rest of the circuit.

[DW1961]

The panel is only 100A also,

What brand are the panel and breakers?

1961 brand. lol who knows the panel itself has no writing on it. I'm not going to take off the panel front because the electricians are coming to do all that. They will know exactly how many extra amps they need to provide the level 2 charging outlet.

Here is a picture of it.

[TimFox]

The key word there is "largely".  Every state approves their own electrical code.

True, but NEC 406.12A (2014) reads the same as CEC 406.12A in the excerpt that I quoted.  Tamper-proof receptacles are not a 'California' thing.  They're a PITA everywhere.

When we added a new room to our house, the contractor installed those receptacles per code (new construction).
They are an especial PITA when plugging in two-prong plugs for double-insulated appliances such as a vacuum cleaner.

[IanB]

When we added a new room to our house, the contractor installed those receptacles per code (new construction).
They are an especial PITA when plugging in two-prong plugs for double-insulated appliances such as a vacuum cleaner.

I accidentally bought and installed a tamper-proof receptacle without realizing. It is nearly impossible to get a plug into it. I have to push with all my might while wiggling the plug. An elderly person with frail hands would find it unusable.

[DW1961]

I'm trying to figure out how I can charge our new EV at 12 amps from the 120 garage outlet. I'll just trip the offending breaker and test the sockets to see which are off and which are on that particular circuit.

It will charge ok without tripping the breaker, but if I try to run the micro -- snap!

I know from last night that the fridge, garage outlet, and microwave are on the same circuit. I'll check other outlets tonight. Hopefully i can rearrange the microwave so it's on another kitchen circuit and then if the washer is on its own circuit, I can charge 120 at 12A anytime without issues. Otherwise I'll have to watch it.

I've called the owner about the CA rebate for a 240 installation in the garage, but they only give you 1000.00 for installation and 250 for any permitting. If you want a 240 in your garage, and it costs more than that, you're out of pocket for it. He's interested but said if it will cost him too much, probably not.

The panel is only 100A also, so it may need a 200 A main installed, and if you can't just put a 200A main in it, then it would need a new panel. It would get expensive fast.

The outfit that is contracted to do the evaluations and installations will come out soon at let us know.

I charge a model X from a 120V, 15A outlet.  Of course, the car only draws 12A because of the code limitations.  It works for me, but it is slow.  In 12 hours, I can charge around 50 miles, which is enough for average driving.  Other people won't be happy with that.

A wiring change I have thought of would be to upgrade the outlet to 240V, without running a new wire.  It would use a NEMA 6-15 outlet, which is rated for 240V, 15A.  This would provide more than twice the charging capacity, as there's some taken off the top to power various things in the car and efficiency issues. 

I have had discussions with people over the Internet, asking if this is legit.  The existing wires are black and white with a bare or green ground (don't remember which, but I think it's bare).  I found language in the NEC that allows the white wire to be marked with tape as a red wire (the other hot in a 240V line).  There is no requirement to have a neutral, and since the car doesn't need it, you will be good.  The only issue is if the electrician is happy marking the wire, vs. installing a new one.  This would be a very quick job for an electrician, so very inexpensive, and would more than double the charging rate. 

In your case, you would need to run a wire from the electrical panel, to where ever the line from the garage meets the rest of the circuit.

The wires are only going to be good for AWG. If it's 15 amp breaker then the wire is probably 15 amp Romex. the level 2 charger for the Bolt needs 32 amps. If its 3 wire then I guess the two black and white would be 15 amps each but that would still not be enough.