time, then spray that board with hopefully even layer of photo-resist
Spray resist has always been a troublesome process, it's partly why toner transfer became a thing.
Dry Film is the practical way to sensitise your own boards for photo etching these days.
Best thing I have used are Avery "full sheet" size shipping labels. Peel of the sticker part and print on the backing. Removal is easy, no soaking required, just wait till the board cools off till it is warm to the touch and gently rub with the edge of a credit card and lift. Nice thing is you can just run the thing though your printer again as long as you don't print in the same spot.
Best thing I have used are Avery "full sheet" size shipping labels. Peel of the sticker part and print on the backing. Removal is easy, no soaking required, just wait till the board cools off till it is warm to the touch and gently rub with the edge of a credit card and lift. Nice thing is you can just run the thing though your printer again as long as you don't print in the same spot.
Yep, described in this earlier post:
[urlhttps://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/what-paper-should-i-use-for-making-pcbs-using-the-toner-transfer-method/msg646589/#msg646589][/url]
And the following post describes it's shortcomings.
One must experiment to find "their best" solution.
I personally have had good luck with Pulsar's Toner Transfer Paper. You can get it from digikey.
Only if you're in the USA. For some reason they wont export it, so it doesn't show up on digikey.co.nz etc.
Sorry to hear that. The paper is actually coated with dextrin, not sucrose (
my mistake). A web page on how to make your own (using corn starch as some one else mentioned) is at ...
https://sites.google.com/site/matthewsager/home/projects/electronicsshop/tonertransferpaper.
I have used this type paper for beginner boards, I couldn't get the magazine type paper to scrub off cleanly (
but I am kind of a klutz). For your first boards, sugar coated paper is an easy and low cost way to start etching boards.
Oh and one other thing, I find the old laserjet series of printers seems to work better than modern ones. Maybe the toner formulation is different?
I have made multiple boards using a photocopier to print to the paper, but I seem to remember touching things up with a fine "sharpie" style pen (
Argh, I am doing it again. A circuit board resist pen, sorry I shouldn't give out brand names you may not be able to get, don't know if those are available outside the US, an etch resist pen is what you touch up with if some traces don't stick. ).
Psi wrote "
For some reason they wont export it" Just checked and Digikey site says contains lead??? Maybe that is why?
Hmm, paper with lead in it. Maybe I should stop licking it, explains a lot actually...
Often using a heated roller type laminator possibly one modified to apply higher than usual temperatures is helpful in achieving a good transfer for various media such as photo paper or others.
I've found 2 passes inside the carrier pouch got good adhesion.
Laminator set reasonably hot too.
I personally have been thinking of taking my next PCB over to a friend who has a T-shirt press. If I am thinking correctly those have dual element on top and bottom, and if so it would allow me to line up and do both sides of the PCB all in one go.