EEVblog 1574 - Is the $42 Fluke 101 Multimeter Any Good?

[EEVblog]

Is a $42 Fluke multimeter any good? The Fluke 101 reviewed.

[tchicago]

Interesting effect: it measures about 0.3V when banged with a hammer or a hand.
Apparently, some element generates an electricity due to a segnetoelectric effect.

That means this device cannot be used on a vibrating vehicle, like a train or airplane.

[Kleinstein]

I would not be so sure about having averaring AC response. Some of the modern DMM chips sets include RMS as digital true RMS, though with a limited bandwidth.
It may be worth testing if it is true RMS and maybe also the frequency range (e.g. does it cover the audio range).

The calibration seal can be circumvented by opening the case - there seem to be no seal on the srews.

[G0MJW]

It's good for $42, but it is nearly double that price in Europe so not such a good deal.

[Gyro]

Currently £57 in the UK.

[joeqsmith]

Interesting effect: it measures about 0.3V when banged with a hammer or a hand.
Apparently, some element generates an electricity due to a segnetoelectric effect.

That means this device cannot be used on a vibrating vehicle, like a train or airplane.

[The Soulman]

Joe, was the input shorted on your vibration test?

[joeqsmith]

Joe, was the input shorted on your vibration test?

Well, yes and no.  I consider my smacking the meter with my hand part of the vibration test.  During the initial beat down, the inputs were floating.  Then I added a jumper for further beatings and the vibration table.  Assuming person trying to read volts on their jet aircraft have a low impedance source.   

[joeqsmith]

As far as battery life for the 101,  I measured 840 hrs typical. 

For the switch cycle testing, I never ran the 101.  It was that Fluke 17B+ that performed so well, while the brand new Fluke 87V had some damage to pads where the wiper contacts had cut groves into them.   You would think the 87V would have outperformed the 17B+ but maybe with it being such an old design, they never improved it where the 17B+ was starting from a clean slate.

[pdenisowski]

(sigh) Now I have to go check if there's a room in the house that doesn't have it's own dedicated meter yet so I can justify buying one of these

[SeanB]

Would assume one of the ceramic chip capacitors on the input or ADC are the cause of it. Ceramic cheaper than a film capacitor, which would nave not shown this, though you would run into issues with needing to glue down the film capacitor to the board to prevent the leads breaking off with vibration and time. Or use physically larger capacitors, and use better quality NPO types that are less prone to piezoelectric effects every place where it is on the input or ADC side, and not just supply bulk capacitors.

[Bud]

Interesting effect: it measures about 0.3V when banged with a hammer or a hand.
Apparently, some element generates an electricity due to a segnetoelectric effect.

That means this device cannot be used on a vibrating vehicle, like a train or airplane.

One should be nuts to use this class multimeter on a train or airplane.

[Bud]

Kudos to Fluke for the solid socket terminals. The ones on the Aneng are total garbage made out of paper thin spring sheet metal.

[EEVblog]

Interesting effect: it measures about 0.3V when banged with a hammer or a hand.
Apparently, some element generates an electricity due to a segnetoelectric effect.

That means this device cannot be used on a vibrating vehicle, like a train or airplane.

I get about 30-50mV when I rub my hand on the LCD. It's not impact/vibration related.

[EEVblog]

As far as battery life for the 101,  I measured 840 hrs typical. 

That's what would be expected based on my measurements.

[tchicago]

Interesting effect: it measures about 0.3V when banged with a hammer or a hand.
Apparently, some element generates an electricity due to a segnetoelectric effect.

That means this device cannot be used on a vibrating vehicle, like a train or airplane.

I get about 30-50mV when I rub my hand on the LCD. It's not impact/vibration related.

On Dave's video at 3:27 - it shows 0.3V AC.
And about 0.17V around 3:20.

[joeqsmith]

I get about 30-50mV when I rub my hand on the LCD. It's not impact/vibration related.

On Dave's video at 3:27 - it shows 0.3V AC.
And about 0.17V around 3:20.

You do realize that the meter was floating?  Similar to the people who ask about returning their brand new meters after they turn them on with the leads floating and they don't see 0V. 

If I rub my finger on the display with nothing attached to the meter, I see roughly that same 50mV error.    If measure a 5.0VAC signal and then rub my finger on the display, it appears to have no effect.   This is different than the Gossen Ultra (Prime now) where you have it attached to a low impedance source and the meter is still sensitive to moving your hands near it.  How this meter ever made it on the market with such poor shielding is anyones guess. 

[Fungus]

It's good for $42, but it is nearly double that price in Europe so not such a good deal.

You can buy them on Aliexpress.

[Fungus]

Joe Smith zapped his 101 with 17kV. It's one of the toughest Flukes he's tested. I think Fluke doesn't give it a higher rating for marketing reasons, not because it can't take it.

Fluke's web page used to describe them as "Extremely Rugged" but they've toned down the language now.

I figure the probe sockets are on the bottom because the shrouds on those TL75 leads are longer than the thickness of the meter.



Mine lives in a little zip case with some much smaller probes. Those Fluke probes are huge (and very long).

[Fungus]

Kudos to Fluke for the solid socket terminals. The ones on the Aneng are total garbage made out of paper thin spring sheet metal.

Note to future owners: They're Loctite'd to their screws really hard and you don't have to remove them to get the PCB out. 

[joeqsmith]

Joe Smith zapped his 101 with 17kV. It's one of the toughest Flukes he's tested. I think Fluke doesn't give it a higher rating for marketing reasons, not because it can't take it.

Close.  The Fluke 101 survived 12kV, 50us FWHH, 2 ohm source.    I took the Fluke 107 to 14kV 100us FWHH and it survived.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cXzYpIoyVm9QJUju4KXqM22CEQZP3_xwWvDyeVwxTy4/edit#gid=400910915

[joeqsmith]

As far as the stand/hanger, I wonder if Dave's was lost.  Mine has a compartment to hold it inside of the shipping box.  I've never had it out until now.   It does have a magnet if you use it for a hanger. 

***
Added a few more photos to show how it can be folded up to raise the meter to clear the leads. 

[bdunham7]

That means this device cannot be used on a vibrating vehicle, like a train or airplane.

Have you tried beating your other meters with a hammer (with no leads inserted) to see what they do?

[descartes]

As well as a handy second meter on the desk, mine gets good use out & about resolving battery issues when I'm told "sure, we put in fresh batteries" - no arguments with a yellow meter's reading it seems.

[EEVblog]

As far as the stand/hanger, I wonder if Dave's was lost.  Mine has a compartment to hold it inside of the shipping box.  I've never had it out until now.   It does have a magnet if you use it for a hanger. 

Mine has the compartment but there was nothing in it. I wondered what the compartment was for!
That certainly adds value.

[joeqsmith]

Dave,  watched your EEVBLOG2 box of random meters and noticed the old KeySight.  Offer still stands for the two meters if you're interested.  You never posted why you cancelled the auction for the Agilent.  Maybe you no longer have it.  I would still be interested in the ICs from that Keysight. 

[EEVblog]

Dave,  watched your EEVBLOG2 box of random meters and noticed the old KeySight.  Offer still stands for the two meters if you're interested.  You never posted why you cancelled the auction for the Agilent.  Maybe you no longer have it.  I would still be interested in the ICs from that Keysight.

The Keysight slowly drifted back out of spec after a few days. So I could sell it as repaired.
I don't know why you want to pay so much for a scrap PCB and a dodgy OLED meter, what's the catch?

[joeqsmith]

Dave,  watched your EEVBLOG2 box of random meters and noticed the old KeySight.  Offer still stands for the two meters if you're interested.  You never posted why you cancelled the auction for the Agilent.  Maybe you no longer have it.  I would still be interested in the ICs from that Keysight.

The Keysight slowly drifted back out of spec after a few days. So I could sell it as repaired.
I don't know why you want to pay so much for a scrap PCB and a dodgy OLED meter, what's the catch?

The only stipulation is pull the PCB from the U1282A and check that none of the ICs have cracked cases or missing pins.  You can keep all the mechanics.  Just place the board in an anti static bag.   Nothing needs to be done with the U1273AX.  I understand it is as is.  If you want to further lighten the load, you could toss in a dead current revision of the 121GW, assuming there was one.  Hardly makes a dent. 

Consider my offer a donation for use of this forum and keeping me entertained for a decade.

[Fryguy]

This Fluke 101 reminds me of the Extech EX330 - which i like much more than the 101 . Way more bang per buck . . . 

[dobsonr741]

Got a 101 last week, encouraged by this tread. It was too small and too little in features. Returned, got a Thsinde 18 Z-III for bit less. Happy with the swap. The 18Z is accurate and the continuity test is fast. Recommended.

[Monkeh]

Got a 101 last week, encouraged by this tread. It was too small and too little in features. Returned, got a Thsinde 18 Z-III for bit less. Happy with the swap. The 18Z is accurate and the continuity test is fast. Recommended.

Reads thread about a video review which makes it clear this is an extremely compact and basic meter. Buys meter. Returns it for being small and basic.

[AG6QR]

I own two of these -- one in each of my vehicles.  A very solid meter, compact, with a minimal feature set and good reliability.

I've recommended them to several people who rarely use a meter, but want the ability to do some basic tests. 

The fact that there's no current range is certainly a limitation, but it's also a safety feature, since it eliminates the possibility of touching probes to a stiff voltage source when they're in a low-impedance current measuring configuration. 

At my local ham radio club, whenever I have a chance to check out someone else's meter, I always test the fuse(s) for the current mode.  Many of the ones I test are blown, which suggests that a) it's not uncommon for someone to make that mistake, and b) when they do make that mistake, many casual users don't value a working current range sufficiently to replace the fuse.

If you're the kind of person who needs a current range, knows how to use it properly, and will replace the fuse when it's blown, this meter is not for you -- at least not as your only meter.  But you're probably not the kind of person who will ask me for a recommendation, either.

[Fungus]

I own two of these -- one in each of my vehicles.  A very solid meter, compact, with a minimal feature set and good reliability.

I've recommended them to several people who rarely use a meter, but want the ability to do some basic tests. 

Most people only need volts and continuity in a meter.

At my local ham radio club, whenever I have a chance to check out someone else's meter, I always test the fuse(s) for the current mode.  Many of the ones I test are blown, which suggests that a) it's not uncommon for someone to make that mistake, and b) when they do make that mistake, many casual users don't value a working current range sufficiently to replace the fuse.

Yep, I've seen that many, MANY times.

I've also seen too many people pull the fuse out and wrap it in tin foil when I point it out to them. These are the ones who should own a Fluke 101.

[nctnico]

At my local ham radio club, whenever I have a chance to check out someone else's meter, I always test the fuse(s) for the current mode.  Many of the ones I test are blown, which suggests that a) it's not uncommon for someone to make that mistake, and b) when they do make that mistake, many casual users don't value a working current range sufficiently to replace the fuse.

This is the reason I buy DMMs with at least 4.5 digits. There will be enough resolution on the unfused 10A range to do all current measurements while not worrying about blowing a fuse inside the DMM

[Fungus]

This is the reason I buy DMMs with at least 4.5 digits. There will be enough resolution on the unfused 10A range to do all current measurements while not worrying about blowing a fuse inside the DMM

Sure,  that's why you need them... 

[fdk]

I bought one of these about 3 years ago, here in Japan.  Was about JPY5500 or something like that at the time.  Basically bought it because it was a Fluke, and it did enough of what I need.   It has been absolutely fine, good enough for all the repairs I've done over the last 3 years (hifi, appliances, automotive, etc) especially when paired with a scope.  I can confirm it is very solidly built and I have no qualms about using it on mains.  Only minorly annoying thing is that the back is rounded so it rarely sits nicely on a flat surface and it is hard to prop up in a position where you can view it easily.  Clearly, I have managed regardless 

[Fungus]

I bought one of these about 3 years ago, here in Japan.  Was about JPY5500 or something like that at the time.  Basically bought it because it was a Fluke, and it did enough of what I need.   It has been absolutely fine, good enough for all the repairs I've done over the last 3 years (hifi, appliances, automotive, etc) especially when paired with a scope.  I can confirm it is very solidly built and I have no qualms about using it on mains.  Only minorly annoying thing is that the back is rounded so it rarely sits nicely on a flat surface and it is hard to prop up in a position where you can view it easily.  Clearly, I have managed regardless 

The magnetic hanger accessory works like a stand. See pics on page 1...

[rsjsouza]

As far as the stand/hanger, I wonder if Dave's was lost.  Mine has a compartment to hold it inside of the shipping box.  I've never had it out until now.   It does have a magnet if you use it for a hanger. 

Mine has the compartment but there was nothing in it. I wondered what the compartment was for!
That certainly adds value.

The stand/hanger is part of the Fluke 101 Kit - the basic Fluke 101 does not come with it.

I mentioned this before, but my experience with the quality control of the Fluke 101 was very disappointing. The first (2017 date code) had issues with the display. The second (2016 date code) did not, but both had oxidized pads on the PCB vias and pads, including the ones leading to the LCD.

This may be due to improper storage, but it was coming from two different sellers from very different locations.

Perhaps they improved that nowadays, but I won't be caught doing the same mistake... thrice. 

[joeqsmith]

As far as the stand/hanger, I wonder if Dave's was lost.  Mine has a compartment to hold it inside of the shipping box.  I've never had it out until now.   It does have a magnet if you use it for a hanger. 

Mine has the compartment but there was nothing in it. I wondered what the compartment was for!
That certainly adds value.

The stand/hanger is part of the Fluke 101 Kit - the basic Fluke 101 does not come with it.

Mine came from some seller on Amazon.  I don't see any mention of a "kit" on the box, but it is all in Chinese.   The box is different from what Dave showed in his review but I bought mine several years ago so I'm not too surprised. 

[Fungus]

The stand/hanger is part of the Fluke 101 Kit - the basic Fluke 101 does not come with it.

I didn't get one with mine but I knew that when I ordered it.

You can buy them separately on Aliexpress but they aren't cheap - about half the price of the meter.

Maybe 3D print a stand instead. There's half a dozen on thingiverse.

[fdk]

The magnetic hanger accessory works like a stand...

I wonder if that is a later addition, as I don't remember ever seeing that in the box.  I think I still have it somewhere...might check if I find it.
Regardless, if that comes with them now, then it makes it even better. 

[joeqsmith]

I wonder if that is a later addition, as I don't remember ever seeing that in the box.  I think I still have it somewhere...might check if I find it.
Regardless, if that comes with them now, then it makes it even better.

I purchased mine in 2015.  From the paper inside, guessing the meter was inspected/built on 5/4/2015.   

Maybe it was originally included but removed later to increase profits.   No idea. 

[newbrain]

There will be enough resolution on the unfused 10A range to do all current measurements while not worrying about blowing a fuse inside the DMM

I'm quite sure the shunt resistor for 10 A will act as a fuse given enough effort.
Ask my Iskra Unimer 3 and my 12 y.o. self how I know. (5 A full scale, to tell the truth)