oh wow.
nicely done spotting those and fixing them. replace that single-use fuse with a polyfuse.
Thanks
Yes, polyfuse sounds good. Lets check Farnell and RS.
Cheers.
---
Daniel
Great find
, and good job
. Naturally, it makes one now wonder about Rigol's quality control. What does this fuse protect? Is it to power the main board(s)?
Hi,
Okay, problem found and fixed.
For test purpose, I temporary straped the fuse, and the channel is working again. Now I need to find a replacement.
Great find , and good job . Naturally, it makes one now wonder about Rigol's quality control. What does this fuse protect? Is it to power the main board(s)?
Thanks. Lead free solder is really a PITA. Otherwise the build quality is nice, IMHO (except the LM317 stuff, even with larger heat sink).
This fuse is in the channel 1 AC input line.
Cheers.
---
Daniel
That LM317 should have been a switching regulator from the beginning.
Leaded solder isn't too bad once you get used to it.
Naturally, it makes one now wonder about Rigol's quality control.
EVERY product can have a trouble like that.
Do you think RIGOL checks
every-single-PSU? At that price? You're kidding...
They probably calibrate the boards by using pogopins and not the completed PSUs, so this can explain the issue.
Yes they should. Proper QC can be fully automated. The market for T&M is small, so reputation particularly among people who can examine the interiors and truly appreciate poor design or workmanship, makes it even more important they are strict with QC. Burn testing this PSU then scanning the PCB with a thermal camera could have revealed the fuse was about to blow.
The fault mentioned here looks like either the one part was faulty and is an easy fix, or there is another fault downstream that blew the fuse, so one has to check for it after the fuse repair.
EVERY product can have a trouble like that.
Do you think RIGOL checks every-single-PSU? At that price? You're kidding...
Yes they should.
I agree, but at that price you get a TRIPLE OUTPUT, very accurate, low ripple programmable PSU that costs much, much less than any other PSU... There is no comparison with other PSUs on the market at the moment.
I think it's a compromise.
Are all the issues fixed now on the Rigol DP832? Or which issues are still present in the last revision?
Do the units still suffer from overshoot? Or can I leave the PSU connected to my target board without risking my design to get destroyed?
When will Rigol make a version where all (-) are isolated and not two common?
Do they actually have this in higher-end models or do they always share two (-) in common?
The Rigol DP832 would be a nice replacement to Philips PE1542, if it does not have the overshoot, and if it would have 3 completely isolated outputs.
I would also be interested which issues are still present in the latest revision.
Foremost I would like to know if the fan is still that noisy.
I am currently in the market for a new and better PSU and the DP832 could be "the one". But I hate noisy equipment I like it almost silence on my bench. Does not have to be super silent whatsoever but I once heard the DP832 and thats too loud for my ears.
Anyway some update would be nice if someone has some news.
Do the units still suffer from overshoot? Or can I leave the PSU connected to my target board without risking my design to get destroyed?
It's not a Rigol's PSU issue. Most PSUs has overshoot at power on. I have a TTi and it behave almost identical. IMO you should never leave your circuit connected (without a properly designed input) when powering on a bench PSU.
So I think one could pretty easily mod the 832 to use a quieter fan, though mine does drive the fan according to load just fine.
If you were to use a couple temp sensors you could keep it to a very quiet idle until something heated up, and let a PID loop handle the fan for ya.
That LM317 should have been a switching regulator from the beginning.
Leaded solder isn't too bad once you get used to it.
That would be incorrect. It is foolish to use a switching regulator for control circuitry IF you want low noise. A linear regulator was likely the right choice (again assuming it is powering the DACs ADCs and signal amps)
That LM317 should have been a switching regulator from the beginning.
Leaded solder isn't too bad once you get used to it.
That would be incorrect. It is foolish to use a switching regulator for control circuitry IF you want low noise. A linear regulator was likely the right choice (again assuming it is powering the DACs ADCs and signal amps)
I strongly doubt it's powering anything of the sort.
As do I. Looks to me like it's driving the front panel only. I haven't opened it up and looked in a while, though.
Not to druge up an old topic, but I'm shopping one of these and would love to hear from anyone who has purchased one recently if there are any issues with the revision that is currently for sale?
Not to druge up an old topic, but I'm shopping one of these and would love to hear from anyone who has purchased one recently if there are any issues with the revision that is currently for sale?
As far as I am aware, all outstanding bugs I'm aware of were resolved at firmware release 1.14. Happy to be corrected of course, Rigol has a reputation for having several different hardware versions of boards, and the regression testing matrix doesn't always seem to be completed across all combinations.
anyone know information about serialnumbers and when they are produced?
I got my 832A unit today with serialnumber DP8B17***
anyone know information about serialnumbers and when they are produced?
I got my 832A unit today with serialnumber DP8B17***
rigol uses the 1st 2 digit after model "DP8B" as the year of production since 1998 . So the 17 is 2015. The next 2 digits is the week in the year of production 01-52 then serial number , I think last 5 are sequential for the model
Ah, so week six then, second week of february?
DP8B1706xxxxx
rigol uses the 1st 2 digit after model "DP8B" as the year of production since 1998 . So the 17 is 2015. The next 2 digits is the week in the year of production 01-52 then serial number , I think last 5 are sequential for the model
Wat.. mine is DP8
C1524
xxxxx. I wonder what the C means? Can't be a newer revision, mine is dated 2013, which sounds about right.
The dp831a that I got sent wrong instead of the dp832a had DP8A1520xxxxx
rigol uses the 1st 2 digit after model "DP8B" as the year of production since 1998 . So the 17 is 2015. The next 2 digits is the week in the year of production 01-52 then serial number , I think last 5 are sequential for the model
Wat.. mine is DP8C1524xxxxx. I wonder what the C means? Can't be a newer revision, mine is dated 2013, which sounds about right.
Mine is DP8C as well (from end of 2014) and is a plain non-A unit. neslekkim's is a DP832
A, hence the different serial number prefix.