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Greetings!
I am a recent lurker in this forums and trying to teach my self electronics or electrical troubleshooting.
I am ready to make the Jump on buying my first DMM.
I was eyeing the Brymen 869s but sadly they do not ship to the Philippines
I was browsing through facebook marketplace and happened to see a Fluke 189 series 2 selling for just 250 USD.
Things I want to know:
is the 189 series 2 the same/identical to the fluke 289 as mentioned by David L. Jones on his review about this DMM which he uploaded to Youtube 8 years ago?
is it true that the 869s is the best all around high end multimeter but it only lacks LoZ?
does the 189 series 2 / 289 have temperature capabilities? because I can't seem to find manuals for the 189 series 2; is it safe to assume that the manual of the fluke 289 can be used for the 189 series 2?
the Fluke 189 series 2 that I want to buy is a secondhand product and the sticker's on the side of the DMM says that the last time it was calibrated was on Dec. 2015 and that it is due for calibration on Dec. 2016; also the warranty has expired on Dec. 2016
if I buy the Fluke 189 series 2 should I have it calibrated at the local Fluke distributor in the Philippines? Should I calibrate it annually?
I wanted to buy the Fluke 189 series 2 DMM to work on projects such as diagnosing and repairing of dead AVR's, computer PSU's, electric stand fans, electric kettles, automotive wiring, solar panel house wiring, LED flashlights, computer peripherals, audio gears such as IEM's, earbuds and over ear headphones, old computer speakers, washing machines, arduino/rasp pi projects.
I am also patiently waiting for my Uni-tU211b to arrive from aliexpress because I also wanted a clamp meter but was too unconfident in my skills to mod a Uni-t 210e. Is the 211b a solid choice for a clamp meter?
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I am a recent lurker in this forums and trying to teach my self electronics or electrical troubleshooting.
If this is your first DMM and you want to repair/diagnose the above, the 189 is a fine choice, but I suggest something cheaper for your first DMM. Fluke 101 for $50 USD. With no current functionality, you are less likely to make an "oops" when learning.
I am ready to make the Jump on buying my first DMM.
I wanted to buy the Fluke 189 series 2 DMM to work on projects such as diagnosing and repairing of dead AVR's, computer PSU's, electric stand fans, electric kettles, automotive wiring, solar panel house wiring, LED flashlights, computer peripherals, audio gears such as IEM's, earbuds and over ear headphones, old computer speakers, washing machines, arduino/rasp pi projects.
You can do diagnosis and repairs on all of the above by just measuring voltage and resistance 98% of the time.
After a few months, and IF you still like electronics, then go ahead and buy a higher end more function multimeter in the $200USD price range. -
Fluke 101 for $50 USD.
Thank you for replying! sadly the local fluke distributor does not list the Fluke 101 on their online shop. the only way to buy the fluke 101 is through lazada and it costs 100 usd.
Is it true that the fluke 189 series 2 and fluke 289 identical DMMs? -
Fluke 101 on ebay for $50 USD + free ship.
Identical? Maybe. The 189 II is likely the predecessor of the 289. 289 may have newer firmware and newer version of the pcb. -
I would strongly advise buying a multimeter with current capabilities, both DC and AC. If not, you will regret it forever.
You should get a pretty good instrument for around $100US or less. -
Greetings!
Welcome to the forums.
It looks like all three models measure temp the 189, 189 II, 289. The one in the video appears to be a 189 II and it has the temp symbol.
You do not need to hurry to calibrate the multimeter. Unless the meter has an issue and is way out of calibration you probably will not notice, most hobbyists don't calibrate their meters. What is more important is that the meter is functional and measurements are reproducible.
The Fluke 189 II would be fine as a first multimeter, many people start with less though. Just check if it comes with the leads and temp probe etc as those accessories are expensive. Check as well you're not sold a meter that has problems if you are new to repairs. -
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is the 189 series 2 the same/identical to the fluke 289 as mentioned by David L. Jones on his review about this DMM which he uploaded to Youtube 8 years ago?
No, they are different.
The 289 is the new replacement modal for the 189 but they are not the same in looks or the way they work.
I have the 187, same as the 189 but without the built in logging, and there is a 287 and 289 where I work.
I prefer my 187 because it is ready to use within 2seconds after turning on. The 28x take way too long to turn on and get to ready to use, it seems to do loads of checks in sw.
Fyi I love my 187
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I forgot to mention that if you get an auto-ranging multimeter, make sure that it can also be set to manual mode as well.
In addition to a good accurate digital multimeter is is worth considering a half-decent, but low-cost analog multimeter which would be useful for watching varying parameters, like the voltage across a charging capacitor for example. The bar-graphs on digital multimeters don't have the same 'feel'.
When choosing a multimeter concentrate on the accuracy and ranges of the three basic parameters: DC voltage, DC current, resistance, before the fancy facilities like diode and transistor testers. Particularly consider the high and low end values of the parameters you will be measuring.
At one end there is your mains voltages and currents and at the other end there are the quite small values in modern electronics. For example the 200mV of a forward conducting schottky diode and the 10uA of a small-signal transistor base current.
I am not necessarily advocating a Fluke, and especially not at the low-cost end where you can get better value for money elsewhere but, apart from being nice instruments, Fluke always have a reasonable resale value.
And remember, a multimeter is not just for measuring electrical values, it is a treasured possession for many of us.
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The Fluke 189 II would be fine as a first multimeter, many people start with less though. Just check if it comes with the leads and temp probe etc as those accessories are expensive. Check as well you're not sold a meter that has problems if you are new to repairs.
Can you please give me some tips/pointers or protocol on how to check DMM on site? as I would like to arrange a mett-up the 189 series 2 seller.No, they are different.
The 289 is the new replacement modal for the 189 but they are not the same in looks or the way they work.
if that is the case, then it is safe to assume that the Fluke Ir3000 FC connector will not work with the Fluke 189 series 2 I'm planning to buy?I forgot to mention that if you get an auto-ranging multimeter, make sure that it can also be set to manual mode as well.
In addition to a good accurate digital multimeter is is worth considering a half-decent, but low-cost analog multimeter which would be useful for watching varying parameters, like the voltage across a charging capacitor for example. The bar-graphs on digital multimeters don't have the same 'feel'.
When choosing a multimeter concentrate on the accuracy and ranges of the three basic parameters: DC voltage, DC current, resistance, before the fancy facilities like diode and transistor testers. Particularly consider the high and low end values of the parameters you will be measuring.
I am not necessarily advocating a Fluke, and especially not at the low-cost end where you can get better value for money elsewhere but, apart from being nice instruments, Fluke always have a reasonable resale value.
And remember, a multimeter is not just for measuring electrical values, it is a treasured possession for many of us.
I have searched the manuals for the Fluke 187&189, 287&289 and it seems that they can be set to manual range mode.
any analog multimeter you can suggest?
I think the Fluke 189 series 2 is pretty accurate and has a wide range for the three basic parameters
I have heard praises about Fluke products and I also treasure quality equipment; that is why I was so stoked to see a Fluke 189 series 2 for 250 usd but I also wanted to hear people's suggestions and thoughts about it.
Thank you all for dedicating a small portion of your time in helping a newbie out. I think I'll pull the trigger on Fluke 189 series 2 for 250 usd.
Have a great day! -
I think you may be confusing the 189 and the 189 series II. As far as I know the 289 is a rebranded 189 series II. Dave did a review on a 189 series II and it's very clearly similar to a 289. It makes a rather excellent multimeter for beginner or more experience tinkerer alike. Just be aware that they tend to eat batteries.Quoteis the 189 series 2 the same/identical to the fluke 289 as mentioned by David L. Jones on his review about this DMM which he uploaded to Youtube 8 years ago?
No, they are different.
The 289 is the new replacement modal for the 189 but they are not the same in looks or the way they work.
I have the 187, same as the 189 but without the built in logging, and there is a 287 and 289 where I work.
I prefer my 187 because it is ready to use within 2seconds after turning on. The 28x take way too long to turn on and get to ready to use, it seems to do loads of checks in sw.
Fyi I love my 187
Some people prefer the simpler and faster booting brothers of the 189 series II or 289, but for $250 you really can't go wrong. I'd snap it up in a heartbeat. -
I think you may be confusing the 189 and the 189 series II. As far as I know the 289 is a rebranded 189 series II. Dave did a review on a 189 series II and it's very clearly similar to a 289. It makes a rather excellent multimeter for beginner or more experience tinkerer alike. Just be aware that they tend to eat batteries.
Some people prefer the simpler and faster booting brothers of the 189 series II or 289, but for $250 you really can't go wrong. I'd snap it up in a heartbeat.
Thank you for replying I am also bewildered about MosherIV's reply.
I am pretty ok if they eat batteries. sadly it says on the Fluke 289 manual that it takes 6 AA Alkaline batteries. Is it possible to use NiMH rechargeable batteries on the Fluke 189 series 2? -
Can you please give me some tips/pointers or protocol on how to check DMM on site? as I would like to arrange a mett-up the 189 series 2 seller.
I always ask ahead of time the condition and if any faults are present or names are written on the meter/case.
When I meet them and they hand over the meter to take a look, I ask if there is any problems with the meter I should know about. Don't be afraid to back out of the deal as buying it secondhand is risky if you cannot cheaply or easily repair problems.
Watch videos on youtube and read manual. You need to and be as familiar as you can with the model the accessories it came with and how multimeters work. i.e. measure ohms, volts, continuity/beep test.
Press all the buttons and check the battery compartment for battery damage on the contacts. Check the backlight and make sure the display has no characters or lines missing.
The biggest beginner question is when on AC the meter measurement moves up and down by itself, this is normal and you should see 0 when the leads are shorted together on AC.
Myself I always take another meter, spare batteries and leads which help with testing. You can always take some batteries, capacitors and resistors if you have them and fuses can be checked by following this video.
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Can you please give me some tips/pointers or protocol on how to check DMM on site? as I would like to arrange a mett-up the 189 series 2 seller.
I always ask ahead of time the condition and if any faults are present or names are written on the meter/case.
When I meet them and they hand over the meter to take a look, I ask if there is any problems with the meter I should know about. Don't be afraid to back out of the deal as buying it secondhand is risky if you cannot cheaply or easily repair problems.
Watch videos on youtube and read manual. You need to and be as familiar as you can with the model the accessories it came with and how multimeters work. i.e. measure ohms, volts, continuity/beep test.
Press all the buttons and check the battery compartment for battery damage on the contacts. Check the backlight and make sure the display has no characters or lines missing.
The biggest beginner question is when on AC the meter measurement moves up and down by itself, this is normal and you should see 0 when the leads are shorted together on AC.
Myself I always take another meter, spare batteries and leads which help with testing. You can always take some batteries, capacitors and resistors if you have them and fuses can be checked by following this video.
Thanks for taking the time to reply! I will try and do these as much as possible -
I have searched the manuals for the Fluke 187&189, 287&289 and it seems that they can be set to manual range mode.
any analog multimeter you can suggest?
I think the Fluke 189 series 2 is pretty accurate and has a wide range for the three basic parameters
I have heard praises about Fluke products and I also treasure quality equipment; that is why I was so stoked to see a Fluke 189 series 2 for 250 usd but I also wanted to hear people's suggestions and thoughts about it.
Thank you all for dedicating a small portion of your time in helping a newbie out. I think I'll pull the trigger on Fluke 189 series 2 for 250 usd.m
Sounds like you know what you are doing and have good taste.
Sorry, I have lost touch with multimeters- I was given the analogue multimeter in 1992.
By the way, according to the Fluke website this is the most up to date user manual for the model 189 series 2: https://dam-assets.fluke.com/s3fs-public/187_189_umeng0200.pdf -
I am pretty ok if they eat batteries. sadly it says on the Fluke 289 manual that it takes 6 AA Alkaline batteries. Is it possible to use NiMH rechargeable batteries on the Fluke 189 series 2?
Never tried it, but pretty sure NiMH would be suitable- go for Panasonic/Sanyo eneloop. But get a good charger- NiMH are very difficult to charge properly. -
Just to be clear I have attached pictures of the 189 and 289.
Fyi the Fluke189 started as the Fluke89 mark IV but for some reason they renamed it to the 189.
Not sure if the infra red adapter is compatible between the models.
The protocol is but I do not know if it fits both models.
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Dave's video. In the first minute, he talks about the history of it.
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This is the exact DMM that I am going to buy. I watched the 2 part review done by David and they look pretty much the same.
I'm still bewildered by MosherIV's recent reply. This 189 series 2 does really look a lot like the 289
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I'm still bewildered by MosherIV's recent reply.
He doesn't realize we are talking about the 189 II, not original 189.
Just like the Fluke 87 I, 87 II, 87 III, 87 IV and 87V. The 87 IV became the 187 later on. -
The 189 II is identical (except for the labeling) to the Fluke 287. The 289 added a Lo Z V function for electrical safety testing (to avoid detecting a false live circuit).
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Apologies for laboring the point- I may have missed it in the above posts, but can one of you Fluke DMM experts describe the exact difference between a Fluke 189 and 189 series 2? To keep it simple, please don't mention other models.
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Oops,
yes I did not realise the OP said it was a series II. That what happens when you read forums first thing in the morning.
Completely forgot they did one, guess it was just like the 89 mark IV - got rebranded really quickly.Quotedescribe the exact difference between a Fluke 189 and 189 series 2?
Firstly, see the 2 pictures I posted.
Functionally, they do pretty much the same things.
I think the 289 (aka 179 mkII) has more feature rich logging.
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Oops,
yes I did not realise the OP said it was a series II. That what happens when you read forums first thing in the morning.
Completely forgot they did one, guess it was just like the 89 mark IV - got rebranded really quickly.Quotedescribe the exact difference between a Fluke 189 and 189 series 2?
Firstly, see the 2 pictures I posted.
Functionally, they do pretty much the same things.
I think the 289 (aka 179 mkII) has more feature rich logging.
Thank you MosherIV- I suspect you are a good sport
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Basically this is what happened:
The Fluke 87IV was relaunched/rebadged as a Fluke 187
The Fluke 87V continued on from the Fluke 87III
The Fluke 89IV was relaunched/rebadged as a Fluke 189
The Fluke 189II was relaunched/rebadged as a Fluke 287
The Fluke 289 is similar to a Fluke 287 with extra accuracy and features
There will be subtle differences in the relaunced/rebadged meters as there were also revision and firmware changes but otherwise essentially they are the same meter.
Courtesy of BravoV
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oh so David was wrong in stating that the 189II was a rebranded 289. It's technically a 287?
there is no difference between the 287 and 289 apart from the accuracy in logging?
does the 287 have LoZ? -
Did the 189 II have the same super cap leakage problem as the 289? If you arrange a meet up, I'd definitely ask to open it up.
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Did the 189 II have the same super cap leakage problem as the 289? If you arrange a meet up, I'd definitely ask to open it up.
As a buyer that seems sensible, but as a seller I wouldn't have it. -
Did the 189 II have the same super cap leakage problem as the 289? If you arrange a meet up, I'd definitely ask to open it up.
if I can convince the seller to open it up how do I check if the unit has the super cap leakage? -
oh so David was wrong in stating that the 189II was a rebranded 289. It's technically a 287?
there is no difference between the 287 and 289 apart from the accuracy in logging?
does the 287 have LoZ?
If you look at the photo you posted you will notice no LoZ feature. Compare your photo to mine which has a 287 in it.
This document could be a rough guide, remember there could be subtle differences between the short lived 189II and the 287.
http://assets.fluke.com/Catalog2012/1274458T_EN_w_Pg9.pdf?view=FitB
Does the Fluke 189II have the leaking cap?
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-189-with-leaking-surface-mount-coin-cell/
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If you look at the photo you posted you will notice no LoZ feature. Compare your photo to mine which has a 287 in it.
This document could be a rough guide, remember there could be subtle differences between the short lived 189II and the 287.
http://assets.fluke.com/Catalog2012/1274458T_EN_w_Pg9.pdf?view=FitB
oh yeah now that you mentioned it. there is no LoZ