This might explain the drastic price difference between the sockets over in Europe and the same sockets that say they're rated for North America. The European ones are around 4 to 7 of their funky dollars (the L / F pound thing). But the North American ones that I've seen are usually 100$ USD +.
The reason why the professional electricians can't accommodate the plug is that they're not allowed to wire in the European socket. They must use sockets that are allowed for permanent installations in North America, which are pretty much NEMA sockets. So have them wire in a dryer socket (30A) or a range socket (40A), then construct an adapter made with a dryer or range plug to your European socket.
If you go out early on garbage day with a set of wire cutters, you can get the plug extra cheap.They can't do it because it's against the NEC? As in I cannot legally do it either because it's against code?
This might explain the drastic price difference between the sockets over in Europe and the same sockets that say they're rated for North America. The European ones are around 4 to 7 of their funky dollars (the L / F pound thing). But the North American ones that I've seen are usually 100$ USD +.
pay the electrician and save yourself all that headache.
IMHO you would be well served by a good book on electrical wiring, I have a copy of this https://www.amazon.com/Wiring-House-5th-Pros/dp/162710674X and have found it to be well written and has a lot of helpful tips and tricks.
The breaker is there to protect the wire, so it's perfectly ok to use wire larger than required, for example 12AWG on a 15A breaker but you CANNOT go the other way, eg 14AWG on a 20A breaker. It's also perfectly ok to use a larger capacity circuit than required by the load, so a 40A circuit is just fine for a load only requiring 20A so long as the wire is adequately sized for the breaker, 8AWG for 40A.
The reason why the professional electricians can't accommodate the plug is that they're not allowed to wire in the European socket. They must use sockets that are allowed for permanent installations in North America, which are pretty much NEMA sockets. So have them wire in a dryer socket (30A) or a range socket (40A), then construct an adapter made with a dryer or range plug to your European socket.
If you go out early on garbage day with a set of wire cutters, you can get the plug extra cheap.They can't do it because it's against the NEC? As in I cannot legally do it either because it's against code?
This might explain the drastic price difference between the sockets over in Europe and the same sockets that say they're rated for North America. The European ones are around 4 to 7 of their funky dollars (the L / F pound thing). But the North American ones that I've seen are usually 100$ USD +.
Depends on your local laws, rules and regulations about legality... In my area, I am allowed to make changes in my house to electrical circuits, but, if a fire developed from a mistake in my wiring, AND the insurance company found out, the house is not covered under the rules of insurance, so therefore, I just ate it...
Since you are not knowledgeable about wiring, pay the $100 for the outlet, wire it up to local codes/standards/components, pay the electrician and save yourself all that headache.
Just my 2 cents...
The reason why the professional electricians can't accommodate the plug is that they're not allowed to wire in the European socket. They must use sockets that are allowed for permanent installations in North America, which are pretty much NEMA sockets. So have them wire in a dryer socket (30A) or a range socket (40A), then construct an adapter made with a dryer or range plug to your European socket.
If you go out early on garbage day with a set of wire cutters, you can get the plug extra cheap.They can't do it because it's against the NEC? As in I cannot legally do it either because it's against code?
This might explain the drastic price difference between the sockets over in Europe and the same sockets that say they're rated for North America. The European ones are around 4 to 7 of their funky dollars (the L / F pound thing). But the North American ones that I've seen are usually 100$ USD +.
Depends on your local laws, rules and regulations about legality... In my area, I am allowed to make changes in my house to electrical circuits, but, if a fire developed from a mistake in my wiring, AND the insurance company found out, the house is not covered under the rules of insurance, so therefore, I just ate it...
Since you are not knowledgeable about wiring, pay the $100 for the outlet, wire it up to local codes/standards/components, pay the electrician and save yourself all that headache.
Just my 2 cents...I will admit that I lack knowledge in the NEC, but running some 8 gauge wire isn't going to be an issue. I don't usually play with 240VAC, but when I do, I've always wired it the way everyone else does. I've just never seen a receptacle that expected one 240VAC line, one neutral, one ground. I think I'll be alright.
And in my county, we have to get a permit before we begin work like this and have it inspected, so I know it'll be up to code, one way or another. I'd rather just make sure I purchase the proper stuff and have a full understanding of what I'm doing before I continue. For example, if I hadn't come here and purchased that double pole 20-amp breaker, that would have never have passed the inspection, I would have wasted money on the 12/2 or 12/3, and the breaker, and would have to start all over again.
Thank you for the concern though.
And then you have the option:
1) Get a matching "dryer cord" to plug into the electrician-installed outlet, and make an "adapter cable" to the special euro-connector.
2) Exchange the US receptacle for the euro-connector.
Why piss about with an adapter when you could just put the (in)appropriate plug the cable?
Why piss about with an adapter when you could just put the (in)appropriate plug the cable?
Also some versions of the PDU come with detachable power cords.
One good reason to use an adapter is code compliance. As far as I know installing a foreign receptacle doesn't meet code, but it's perfectly legal to use an adapter. Whether or not this makes logical sense isn't really the issue, but if one decides to pay an electrician to install something it normally has to be done per code.
I'd void warranty if I replaced the plug.
The pics I uploaded have the L1 and Earth symbol (G), but doesn't list N. This equipment cannot run off 120VAC by itself. It's not one of those 120V or 240V. It requires 200VAC - 240VAC to operate. It's just a Power Distribution Unit for a server rack. A horizontal, metered one, made by Hewlett Packard Enterprise (or at least they outsourced someone to make it for them).
He has already given the model of the device twice, it's a rack mount power distribution unit.
HPE P9S16A PDU
I think that is the elephant in the room that's not being talked about, will this device still be safe if it is fed two Lines as opposed to a line and a neutral.
With the OP so concerned about changing the plug voiding the warranty, I think he is missing the bigger issue, will feeding this pdu two lines void the warranty?
And besides that will it even be safe?
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He has already given the model of the device twice, it's a rack mount power distribution unit.
HPE P9S16A PDU
I think that is the elephant in the room that's not being talked about, will this device still be safe if it is fed two Lines as opposed to a line and a neutral.
With the OP so concerned about changing the plug voiding the warranty, I think he is missing the bigger issue, will feeding this pdu two lines void the warranty?I see no reason whatsoever for it to void the warranty.
The internal circuitry has no way of knowing whether it is being run off 240v between Active & Neutral, or 240v across the secondary of a pole transformer, & will operate in the same manner in both cases.Quote
And besides that will it even be safe?
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The insulation between "hot" & ground will be under less stress (120v instead of 240v), so that will not cause any safety issues.
The only possible safety problem would be if the device only uses an SPST Mains switch, so that one leg of the supply will still present 120v w.r.t ground inside the device.
NOTE: All Input Circuit Ratings for NA/JP models have been de-rated according to NEC requirements
https://h20195.www2.hpe.com/v2/GetDocument.aspx?docname=a00002909enw page 8
Why piss about with an adapter when you could just put the (in)appropriate plug the cable?
Also some versions of the PDU come with detachable power cords.
One good reason to use an adapter is code compliance. As far as I know installing a foreign receptacle doesn't meet code, but it's perfectly legal to use an adapter. Whether or not this makes logical sense isn't really the issue, but if one decides to pay an electrician to install something it normally has to be done per code.
... no, why not just remove the 'foreign' plug from the cable and just put one of your unfortunate contraptions on and be done with it? Shove the NEMA 6-30 or L6-30 on the cable and forget about playing adapter games.
The plug it's using is common over there, the built-in breakers show the derated values of the breakers, the plug itself shows the derated value of the plug (breakers shouldn't continuously handle a load more than 80% of what they're rated for, that 80% is called the derated value, and everything here shows the derated value (80% of 20 is 16, 80% of 40 is 32. The two breakers both show 16-Amp, the plug shows 32-Amp)).