Has anybody conntacted Atten regarding this problem, and what do they answer?
Is it copies or genuin products that have this faults?
I dear not think about those who buy this product and dont know or check them about this faults
.. they may die..
Just a tip for all the people trying to 'save a buck' by buying this crap on Ebay or other sale sites
This stuff can be bought on the Chinese high street for about 139rmb (or about 23USD).. yep thats right the retail price of this crap is less than a pizza.
The transformers are made in house, right from buying the bare copper wire…. Stretching it by 50% then running it through a vat of boat varnish, into a blower tunnel.
If you are lucky they have a Hipot ring round the wire as it moves onto the spool……
The really criminal places use steel wire that is annealed to look like copper (yep it won't solder, but if you get a big enough blob round the wire end it will do)
The PCB's are populated with components that have usually failed the IQC of some other place.
And then people wonder why they nearly get killed when they purchase this stuff………….
no wonder why they sell it that cheap
btw im more curious about that airpump which sits inside the unit which has an internal pump not the fantype handle, where the hell to get that pump
I just had one of these delivered today; I ordered it from
here. After reading this thread, I pulled the back off it
before plugging it in to test.
It doesn't look too bad relatively. The IEC socket has an inbuilt fuse holder (and even comes with a spare fuse!), the live is switched, and the earth has a ring terminal that goes in the corner where the case screws together. The paint is scraped away there and there is continuity between the IEC earth pin and the chassis. The metal part of the gun thing is connected to earth, and the resistance isn't too bad (0R8).
I can take photos if anyone wants to see.
Damn, reading this I missed a lot of fun, I seem to have made the wrong choise buying a metcal/Oki. It works great, gets hot enough to unsolder and desolder everything in a flash without damage and it turns out to be save too, bummer, I have nothing to compain or hack. I should kick myself for that.
upload the photos and someone definetly will help you on that. as for the thermocouple its the actual elements which limit the sensing range specially its insulation. i melted part of my original supplied fluke probe when i set my chinese thing to approx a correct temp, the meter measures up to 1000c or more i dont really remember the range. but the probe is rated for 2xx celsius
Ok, got some pics, it looks pretty clean.
The pcb is Atten branded.
Few issues, live and neutral are both blue. Earth goes straight to the pcb and so the bottom half of the chassis is earthed only via the screw holding the pcb to the base.
The housing of the tranny measures about 23ohms to the earth pin and the top cover is as good as open circuit (not earthed).
The tip of the wand measures about 6ohms to earth.
I switched it on anyway after putting it back together and it works really well.
Mounted some RGB pixels with leaded solder paste and the atten set to 220 degrees.
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
Did OP post the link of where he bought it from? If not, he should so that more people don't buy it from there.
upload the photos and someone definetly will help you on that. as for the thermocouple its the actual elements which limit the sensing range specially its insulation. i melted part of my original supplied fluke probe when i set my chinese thing to approx a correct temp, the meter measures up to 1000c or more i dont really remember the range. but the probe is rated for 2xx celsius
Ok, got some pics, it looks pretty clean.
The pcb is Atten branded.
Few issues, live and neutral are both blue. Earth goes straight to the pcb and so the bottom half of the chassis is earthed only via the screw holding the pcb to the base.
The housing of the tranny measures about 23ohms to the earth pin and the top cover is as good as open circuit (not earthed).
The tip of the wand measures about 6ohms to earth.
I switched it on anyway after putting it back together and it works really well.
Mounted some RGB pixels with leaded solder paste and the atten set to 220 degrees.
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
Beware of the IEC lead it came with. Fake as hell.
Beware of the IEC lead it came with. Fake as hell.
Thanks for the heads up, what issues am I likely to suffer with it being fake? And should I just bin it and replace it immediately? I have spares lying round al over the place.
I used it last night for my first attempt of removing components as opposed to placing them. I tried removing a few components from an old HDD board, couldn't remove any of the TQFP with it set to 400 degrees. Managed to remove plenty of 8PDIP and SMD resistors etc. I think I had too small of a nozzle attached for the TQFP. I'll be a bit more agressive in my next attempt.
I'm still not sure what temperatures I should use. At 220 I can easily solder new components with my lead solder paste, but desoldering the board from a WD HDD wouldn't budge at 22, or 280.
Beware of the IEC lead it came with. Fake as hell.
Thanks for the heads up, what issues am I likely to suffer with it being fake? And should I just bin it and replace it immediately? I have spares lying round al over the place.
Well, the one I got has a partially insulated earth pin, a fake fuse, very small CSA of the conductors, and I question the terminations. Bin it, never worth using a crap one.
I used it last night for my first attempt of removing components as opposed to placing them. I tried removing a few components from an old HDD board, couldn't remove any of the TQFP with it set to 400 degrees. Managed to remove plenty of 8PDIP and SMD resistors etc. I think I had too small of a nozzle attached for the TQFP. I'll be a bit more agressive in my next attempt.
I'm still not sure what temperatures I should use. At 220 I can easily solder new components with my lead solder paste, but desoldering the board from a WD HDD wouldn't budge at 22, or 280.
Desoldering is a right pain, especially lead-free. You can get nozzles specifically designed for various packages on eBay.
I used it last night for my first attempt of removing components as opposed to placing them. I tried removing a few components from an old HDD board, couldn't remove any of the TQFP with it set to 400 degrees. Managed to remove plenty of 8PDIP and SMD resistors etc. I think I had too small of a nozzle attached for the TQFP. I'll be a bit more agressive in my next attempt.
It could also be one of those chips that have the metal pad on the underside.
Like this one:
It could also be one of those chips that have the metal pad on the underside.
Like this one:
Ah yes, I did think of that but couldn't figure out how I would remove it.
Sadly I'm having no luck finding addition code to run the AT25F1024 I salvaged. My own code doesn't work so I can't tell if I killed it while desoldering it :-(
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
Call Atten and tell them and GET A REPLACEMENT don't fix it. You don't know what else wonghonlo did wrong.
I can confirm that my station also has the fake plug with a fake fuse fitted. The fuse is so obviously fake you can see the piece of wire protruding from the end caps. Replaced it immediately with a certified one and bummed the original.
There is no point contacting atten, they're clearly counterfeit. I will contact the retailer though and make them aware.
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
Watched this video the other day after somebody mentioned it here. Very interesting. I think I will get me one.
Today I visited a local electronic surplus store and saw this small blower.It explains the plastic filing at 9:15 in the video.
BBQ sauce with lost lambs.
Drunked wannabees.
Nice circus show.
I bought an new wep 858D off ebay, $49.00/Wfree shipping
and it has wiring problems also, I still need to remove the PCB and clean all the solder balls off the board, but it is safe to use now. Now how many lives has dave saved? Thank you Dave!
Attached are pictures illustrating the existence of the fault. Later today I will post teardown pictures that show why the fault occurred.
Last night I also notified the Ebay seller in China and to his credit received a prompt reply indicating his great concern and that he would notifiy the manufacturer and his customers of the problem.
How do we see the attachments?
I just bought one of these and I want to know what I'm looking out for before powering up...
Hi,
I brought one of this last week and it arrive two days ago, YIHUA-858D. I wish I read this before I turn it on. Anyway here is my 2 cent. I have only open it once and not yet fix any thing. I turn the unit on and done a few SMD de-soldering, just to prove it works; couple of passive component and transistor, a few SOIC and a TQFP. It work reasonable well and I am still here to tell the tale. After reading this forum, I was thinking ok, it is not the greatest of all build, but with some fixes, it does a reasonable job. So I am starting a list of things to check, if you brought one of these, who knows it might save a few lives. Here is the list so far, feel free to added to:
Thing to check if you brought ATTEN 858D and it clone:
1) Earthing - to the case, heat gun etc. or are they earth at all.
2) Live/active wiring - is live wiring is correct, not to the case at least and not the wrong way round
3) Fuse on live not on return
4) Fuse is real not fake
5) Power switch on live not return
6) Exposed live wiring, eg. in heat gun, mains etc.
Optional that may improve reliability:
1) Soldering - dry joint, blob of solder etc.
2) Exposed contacts - DC and Main separation
Please add as you feel like.
Bench
I bet it has no RCM or C-tick mark and therefore is illegal in Australia anyway. Dangerous mains powered Chinese eBay electrical goods are often being smuggled into Australia, and if you got electrocuted, there would be no sympathy from the Australian government or from the Chinese who assembled it.
People forget that the so-called People's Republic of China is still a third world communist country. These comrades have only a primitive concept of quality or safety compared to modern first world countries. I have seen with my own eyes some of the very dangerous and fraudulent manufacturing practices they have.
So what do you expect.
I once saw a hair drier smuggled into Australia where the active mains wire had fractured off the mains switch and was within 1mm of the metal case, which was not earthed. Great for the bathroom when you are wet and bare foot. Bloody dangerous, but I lay the blame on the dude who imported it.
All you can do is rebuild it in an attempt to make it safe. Or throw it out, save your pennies and buy a reputable soldering iron that will give you years of reliable service. Plus you might get the satisfaction that the product was not built by kids in a back alley sweatshop.
Hi Guys n Gals can u help me out with my 898D,
its a 'best' 898D brand, both the iron and the heat blower isnt working, the digital display lights with a error code S-E, what component /s could be faulty?
i know basic electrical stuff and esp safety, I can also solder and use a multimeter.
thx
UPDATE : the blower is working fine.
the code is 5-E. google search brought up heating element in blower needs replaced, possibly be the element in iron? how do i check the element? check ohms if so what should it be?