That's sick. Awesome thanks so much. I'll review it now. Thanks so much y'all.
dcac and J-R, thanks for the tips. The company I bought it from are on the case. The leads were the UEI type so really should have been ok. We'll see...
UPDATE:
The issue with the cracked input jacks is as several suspected, a molding issue.
input jacks which were injected from the uncompletely-cleared mould probably resulting in for ABS mixed with any foreign materials so the injected jacks could be more easily broken.
Units potentially affected are with serial numbers S/N 18087001 to 181008000
The sockets for these were manually inspected for this issue but it seems that some slipped passed the inspection and have resulted in cracking.
They also mention the Brymen leads are not ideal:
2. Our input jacks were designed to be ideally matched with our test lead probe with 4.2 - 4.3 phi. However, Brymen's probe has 4.5 - 5.0 phi, which can give more mechanical stresses to our input jacks.
"Phi" means diameter of the banana plug.
I'm not sure about their measurements because I measured the Brymen at 4.3mm or a smidge over. The UEi ones are spot on 4mm and not the lantern type ones the Brymen use.
They aren't saying don't use the Brymen leads, just that could be a contributing factor in this case. Welectron have been supplying Brymen leads.
My new stock of meters will all come with UEi leads.
They will be sending me a bunch of replacement jacks so I can send to people who want that option.
If you have been affected by this and prefer to replace it yourself, please email me your address so I can send you one. Use the email Title "121GW Connector"
Alternatively you send your meter back to UEi at this address. I'm not sure if they will rework or replace the meter or board.
Attn: (Mr.) Heegoo Kang
Tel: 82-32-837-5777
309, A-dong, Smart Valley,
Songdomirae-ro 30, Yeonsu-gu, Incheon,
21990, Korea
Hi Dave,
my 121GW seems to be affected as well, however my serial number is 190505920... Do you still have input jacks and would you be willing to send them to Austria? If shipping is more expensive and you don't want to pay for it, I'd do that, if it is not ridiculously expensive. I'd say I'd pay up to about EUR 100,- (LOL) because i don't see another option of repairing this ~EUR 300,- DMM...
Please let me know, I'll then drop you an email with the "121GW Connector" subject...
btw I was using the 121GW with the Probemaster 8043SK kit.
https://probemaster.com/8000-series-test-lead-master-kits/Thanks!
Hi guys,
I must confess I didn't read all the pages in this thread, but I have this issue with my 121GW (001802) multimeter:
I changed the batteries, I updated to the last fw version, the fuses are ok (the leads are fine).
could it be the mode select knob contacts?
could it be the mode select knob contacts?
Altough it cannot be seen in the video (I changed the exposure to
-2 otherwise Rigol multimeter couldn't be read), by default the 121GW starts in DC auto. It doesn't matter if I change the range manually, or I change the mode (same in AC, LowZ)...
Hi guys,
I must confess I didn't read all the pages in this thread, but I have this issue with my 121GW (001802) multimeter:
Is that reading hundreds of volts? Very hard to see detail.
Is it just the voltage range? Does ohms work ok?
How old is the meter?
Hi Dave,
Yes, it was starting at 4-500V and decreasing. The funny thing is that after a power cycle the value could change, like a disconnect between the MCU and the divider (or whatever is in front of it).
On the ohm range is more close to the real values (for a 5.6k it shows 5.07 and slowly increases like a cap is charging). L.E: 10 minutes later is reading 5.228
The meter is from the kickstarter days (serial number 180701206 / EEVblog 001802 ), it was shipped in July 2018. It was used pretty rarely.
The meter is from the kickstarter days (serial number 180701206 / EEVblog 001802 ), it was shipped in July 2018. It was used pretty rarely.
Does the switch have the shim fitted under it?
Sounds like a switch issue.
It never occurred to me to open it up. I don't recall any mishap with it, but here it is (did I move the switch while connected to the mains?) :
It seems that the cover plastic melted as well:
[ Specified attachment is not available ]
Ouch. That could easily cause problems.
I cleaned it, still doesn't work but the shim is not the issue as one could see the above pictures
but that lead me to the issue.
At close inspection it doesn't seem that any other component misses the magic smoke, but hey, after an event like that anything could go wrong:
could it be the mode select knob contacts?
that's what I meant/what I was saying...
@Dave: have you seen my post/e-mail about the cracked input jack? are you still shipping replacement jacks? I'd even buy one if I had a source. Please, help! Thanks!
I cleaned it, still doesn't work but the shim is not the issue as one could see the above pictures but that lead me to the issue.
At close inspection it doesn't seem that any other component misses the magic smoke, but hey, after an event like that anything could go wrong:
Nice pictures. Always good to see cheap meters damaged in action. The melted area along the side of the case is a nice touch. This was another member's meter which was damaged from a HV source.
Shouldn't be too difficult to track down if you plan to attempt repairs.
UPDATE:
The issue with the cracked input jacks is as several suspected, a molding issue.
input jacks which were injected from the uncompletely-cleared mould probably resulting in for ABS mixed with any foreign materials so the injected jacks could be more easily broken.
Units potentially affected are with serial numbers S/N 18087001 to 181008000
The sockets for these were manually inspected for this issue but it seems that some slipped passed the inspection and have resulted in cracking.
They also mention the Brymen leads are not ideal:
2. Our input jacks were designed to be ideally matched with our test lead probe with 4.2 - 4.3 phi. However, Brymen's probe has 4.5 - 5.0 phi, which can give more mechanical stresses to our input jacks.
"Phi" means diameter of the banana plug.
I'm not sure about their measurements because I measured the Brymen at 4.3mm or a smidge over. The UEi ones are spot on 4mm and not the lantern type ones the Brymen use.
They aren't saying don't use the Brymen leads, just that could be a contributing factor in this case. Welectron have been supplying Brymen leads.
My new stock of meters will all come with UEi leads.
They will be sending me a bunch of replacement jacks so I can send to people who want that option.
If you have been affected by this and prefer to replace it yourself, please email me your address so I can send you one. Use the email Title "121GW Connector"
Alternatively you send your meter back to UEi at this address. I'm not sure if they will rework or replace the meter or board.
Attn: (Mr.) Heegoo Kang
Tel: 82-32-837-5777
309, A-dong, Smart Valley,
Songdomirae-ro 30, Yeonsu-gu, Incheon,
21990, Korea
Hi Dave,
my 121GW seems to be affected as well, however my serial number is 190505920... Do you still have input jacks and would you be willing to send them to Austria? If shipping is more expensive and you don't want to pay for it, I'd do that, if it is not ridiculously expensive. I'd say I'd pay up to about EUR 100,- (LOL) because i don't see another option of repairing this ~EUR 300,- DMM...
Please let me know, I'll then drop you an email with the "121GW Connector" subject...
btw I was using the 121GW with the Probemaster 8043SK kit. https://probemaster.com/8000-series-test-lead-master-kits/
Thanks!
hmm dave, did you miss my request? short ack that you'll look into it would suffice... wrote you a mail as well (did so a few months ago as well)...
could it be the mode select knob contacts?
that's what I meant/what I was saying...
@Dave: have you seen my post/e-mail about the cracked input jack? are you still shipping replacement jacks? I'd even buy one if I had a source. Please, help! Thanks!
That's a a concern if it's outside the affected range.
Email sent.
I have a 121gw (s/n 180807803) with the dreaded 'disintegrating socket' problem. Surprised it took this long to fail as I use this gem nearly every day on the bench and bought it new from this site.
How do I get replacement parts for this unit? I'm happy to pay for the replacements plus shipping. I just need to know where to get them. From you? From a distributor?
FWIW, all four socket plastic 'tubes' have disintegrated, some entirely. I am using 'shrouded' probe plugs so I don't think it's completely unsafe yet, but it's getting there :-)
Also, I think I'm completely capable of replacing the parts - proper soldering / desoldering workbench here.
Thanks,
Gary
I have a 121gw (s/n 180807803) with the dreaded 'disintegrating socket' problem. Surprised it took this long to fail as I use this gem nearly every day on the bench and bought it new from this site.
How do I get replacement parts for this unit? I'm happy to pay for the replacements plus shipping. I just need to know where to get them. From you? From a distributor?
FWIW, all four socket plastic 'tubes' have disintegrated, some entirely. I am using 'shrouded' probe plugs so I don't think it's completely unsafe yet, but it's getting there :-)
Also, I think I'm completely capable of replacing the parts - proper soldering / desoldering workbench here.
Thanks,
Gary
Dave has just sent me a new input jack assembly and I have replaced them today. Took me about 30 minutes.
Thanks Dave, for sending me the replacement part!
Received replacement jacks a few days ago. Also got good service from Simon's Electronics so my 121GW is now up and running again.
It seems a recent production of the jacks have the metal portion slightly smaller than previous versions. Can anyone comment on their experience with that?
Shouldn't be too difficult to track down if you plan to attempt repairs.
Would that be worth it? I fell like I wouldn't trust it anymore...
Is there a board replacement available? That would give me peace of mind...
Hey folks. I've done my best to scan through this thread a bit but can't promise I didn't miss something. I was on the kickstarter and got an early "great scott!" meter (sn 171202977 eevblog 000198) and it's been squirrely for quite a while, maybe since day 1, or this might have happened on an earlier firmware upgrade. I took the approach that firmware fixes would get it sorted eventually but u2.04 and now u2.05 have not helped. I saved the calibration and just tried the zero-cal (for the first time ever) on the measures that were simple open/short as I don't have cal'd AC sources or the like. This did not help either, so I re-loaded the saved cal. Regular alkaline batts at 5.1v
The main symptom is persistent, aimless drift,across many measurements, especially at lower ranges. It seems to give mostly meaningful values, but they move around and never settle.
examples:
- shorted mV with a shunt, doesn't show zero, moves around. hit rel, still wont sit at zero.
- trying to zero leads for resistance, one lead connected to com and ohms drifts from 0.031 - 0.065 ohm.
- measuring a 50.554 nF ref cap drifts from 50.18 - 50.24 nF
- constant current ps at 270.9mA dc as measured on another meter.... started at 270mA and change but started drifting down. a minute later it was at 269.11mA, still moving a bit. other meter still read 270mA
- it cannot zero capacitance, it just never gives a reading with the leads shorted or a shunt. stays blank. hit rel, remove leads. starts counting up
- I get 0.0041 mA (is, with drift) when shorted between mAuA and COM
My instinct is that it's a hardware flaw. Is there anything to be done? i do not have reference sources to do a full calibration.
I'll try to offer some assistance here.
- DC mV accuracy is 0.1% of the reading + 10 digits, AC mV is 1.2% + 15 digits. Especially if you're in AC mV mode not all the digits are going to be meaningful. So this could be normal. Can you supply more information and what values you are seeing under what mode?
- Measuring low resistance values with a 2-wire setup is just not going to give you good results. I would say anything under 1 Ohm is going to be tricky unless you tightly control the gotchas, contact resistance especially. Also the accuracy specs of this DMM on the lowest resistance range is 0.5% plus 20 digits.
- Capacitance, also mind the accuracy specs: 2.5% + 5 digits. So for 50nF that is 1.25nF plus 5 digits in either direction.
- Current, same deal: 0.75% plus 15 digits. So at 270mA that is about 2mA in either direction. So nothing is wrong there.
- Shorting the leads will not give a zero. A short is actually infinite capacitance. So what you are seeing is normal behavior.
- 0.0041mA reading in the mA position is also normal. To get meaningful values down that low you will need to very carefully control your environment and the test conditions. Try the uA switch position instead, but of course mind the limits and accuracy specs.
So in summary I think the DMM is working fine. You will just need to adjust your expectations. Just because a DMM has digits on the display doesn't mean they are always going to be perfect.
I'll try to offer some assistance here.
Thanks for your thoughtful reply. I'm coming from the other DMMs I have and the instructions/specifications for this meter. I'm mostly not talking about accuracy, but the fact that the meter never settles on a value. It hunts around. Some readings drift down, others bounce around. I don't have any other meters that do this. I understand that external forces can cause drift - I've tried to control for that with short leads, keeping my hands off, not having any rf or strong electrical fields around. The fact that this happens across many different measurements leaves the meter as a suspect.
Unless I've completely misunderstood all this, the "counts" are not how much the meter should wander forever, but how much the specific measurement can vary and still be considered within spec - a relaxed range for the least significant digits. So maybe set me straight on that bit first?