So many people commented on that.
This is common for hand soldered through hole parts, the solder didn't flow through from the bottom. It's not generally a problem, just inconsistency in the hand soldering.
I think you're missing the point Dave: Many would believe that this is probably soldered properly on the other side without seeing it, but our eyes are trained to go straight to those unsoldered pads and so are yours. What really happens here is that we were all popcorn-ready for your reaction. We usually get Dave's rant against incomplete soldering -which we enjoy so much- and in this case it didn't come even you zoomed right into it. I tend to believe you would have normally complained against this solder job, since it just doesn't seem right.
So many people commented on that.
This is common for hand soldered through hole parts, the solder didn't flow through from the bottom. It's not generally a problem, just inconsistency in the hand soldering.
What really happens here is that we were all popcorn-ready for your reaction. We usually get Dave's rant against incomplete soldering -which we enjoy so much- and in this case it didn't come.
It also didn't help that the view of that component was chosen as the thumbnail for the video.
FWIW, this is the view from underneath when Dave flips the board over:
All three pins look solid enough from that angle, it's just that there's only one pin where the solder wicked through to the other side.
So many people commented on that.
This is common for hand soldered through hole parts, the solder didn't flow through from the bottom. It's not generally a problem, just inconsistency in the hand soldering.
I think you're missing the point Dave: Many would believe that this is probably soldered properly on the other side without seeing it, but our eyes are trained to go straight to those unsoldered pads and so are yours. What really happens here is that we were all popcorn-ready for your reaction. We usually get Dave's rant against incomplete soldering -which we enjoy so much- and in this case it didn't come even you zoomed right into it. I tend to believe you would have normally complained against this solder job, since it just doesn't seem right.
I was one that addressed this in the Patreon comments. Later in the video Dave specifically talked about soldering quality, which added to the strangeness of his silence.
I have seen this in other meters too, with much larger parts. For a portable product, leaving tall through hole parts with soldering gaps like these is asking for problems in the long run (not that Aneng is caring too much for that, though).
My comment on Patreon:
Great video; I really liked the Zoom without loss of detail (I didn't watch it in 4k, though). Pretty boring multimeter. Since you mentioned soldering quality, one thing I never understood in cheap meters is what is seen at 2:46. How come they can't properly solder a through hole part that flows to the other side of the board?!? I have seen this poor job in some Radioshack DMMs I had on the 10A fuse holders! Incomprehensible.
most likely the skill of the assembler.
the smd with be automated, but the throughhole is usually done afterwards by a human.
At 6 min in the PTC and clamp node I suspect is the drive side for the diode, resistance, capacitance, etc. modes. The high impedance leg is the input. You should hear the relay switch in anytime you change to one of the other modes.
Might we see a new “RELAY switch” test video in the future on this model?
It's a flop for the backlight LED going out below 2.6V and the fake 100 segment bargraph.
From the videos, it's in groups of three, so around 30 segments. Dave got fooled
Not really worth adding that big IC to drive a few more LCD segments?
I don't mind the negative contrast/transmissive LCD.
The DMM IC has a charge-pump for the LCD drive, add a few parts and it should be able to drive the LED's, although noise will affect the uV range.
Looking at AA battery discharge curves to 1.35V it looks like about 1/3 capacity and usable for about 60hrs at 16mA drain
Energizer E91Duracell professional leakers.
Latching relays are notorious for changing states when bumped.
Not sure what this meter does if it plops over due to the crappy stand. I hope it stays safe if the relay changes by accident.
Latching relays are notorious for changing states when bumped.
Not sure what this meter does if it plops over due to the crappy stand. I hope it stays safe if the relay changes by accident.
Sounds like a test for joe to do...
The PCB is still kindergarten-grade, with silly ground-pours and input traces running halfway across the world.
Transients will easily zot a PCB trace or the relay will arc contacts-coil. Let's save the world $38 and say the DMM is a bit weak.
I tried dropping the Gossen Ultra and was unable to get the relays to change states. Transient wise, they have not changed how they protect the inputs. I suspect it would fail roughly the same as the other Anengs I have looked at. I also suspect the LCD lens is made from the same poor materials that melt when exposed to gasoline.
At 6 min in the PTC and clamp node I suspect is the drive side for the diode, resistance, capacitance, etc. modes. The high impedance leg is the input. You should hear the relay switch in anytime you change to one of the other modes.
Might we see a new “RELAY switch” test video in the future on this model?
What is it you would want to see? We could try to see where it breaks down at. Dave could have used his HV supplies to at least make sure it could handle the same levels as the 121GW. I suspect you can get it to change states with a magnetic hanger like the Gossen.
Might we see a new “RELAY switch” test video in the future on this model?
What is it you would want to see? We could try to see where it breaks down at. Dave could have used his HV supplies to at least make sure it could handle the same levels as the 121GW. I suspect you can get it to change states with a magnetic hanger like the Gossen.
How about testing it to see if it can give a dangerously incorrect reading if the relay is flipped, like the Gossen does?
(I suspect that this one won't, that the AC voltage range will be unaffected...)
@Joe:Don’t test one on my account, as my first two Aneng’s are good enough.
The fault you found with the “magnetic hanger” test was CRAZY interesting. Granted the odds might be great, but under the right, or I should say wrong circumstances, having a mode change reset due to a magnet could be cause for a bad day. Something Dave could test in a minute since he has this model now.
Might we see a new “RELAY switch” test video in the future on this model?
What is it you would want to see? We could try to see where it breaks down at. Dave could have used his HV supplies to at least make sure it could handle the same levels as the 121GW. I suspect you can get it to change states with a magnetic hanger like the Gossen.
How about testing it to see if it can give a dangerously incorrect reading if the relay is flipped, like the Gossen does?
(I suspect that this one won't, that the AC voltage range will be unaffected...)
I thought Dave said the voltage mode is direct fed and that same node goes off to the relay. If the relay changes with a high current, high voltage source, as I mentioned you may get a light show. The Ultra may do the same thing. But this meter should not behave like the Ultra where it displays a low voltage when the relay changes states.
@Joe:Don’t test one on my account, as my first two Aneng’s are good enough.
The fault you found with the “magnetic hanger” test was CRAZY interesting. Granted the odds might be great, but under the right, or I should say wrong circumstances, having a mode change reset due to a magnet could be cause for a bad day. Something Dave could test in a minute since he has this model now.
Just a really bad design IMO. The standards should not allow this marketing wonder to exist and the engineers should have known better.
if they had used green led's they would be good until the cpu shut down!
does anybody know the type of fuse they used?
daves video is his usual casual not-thinking type.
stares at the ceramic - "no markings on the fuse".
you would think he would know that ceramics are rarely marked because the details are stamped/etched on the endcaps.
Hi and here is old kind of cen-tech meter that blow whiile i was trying to measure AC volts in most high AC scale on one mains socket in my house , that was laying around on my garage. The last thing i remember is the number 1535 and then a "bang" .
It seems that a PTC was blown , the Voltage input trace was also blown, detached from the PCB and of course it doesn't work. On the back there are remains of the explosion. Makes me think that a similar construction is so susceptible to spurious transients on the AC.
Its a free meter maybe but also a free explosion
Hi and here is old kind of cen-tech meter that blow whiile i was trying to measure AC volts in most high AC scale on one mains socket in my house , that was laying around on my garage. The last thing i remember is the number 1535 and then a "bang" .
It seems that a PTC was blown , the Voltage input trace was also blown, detached from the PCB and of course it doesn't work. On the back there are remains of the explosion. Makes me think that a similar construction is so susceptible to spurious transients on the AC.
Its a free meter maybe but also a free explosion
The image of the multimeter with lifted trace.
you cant really blame the meter when it's full of crap & spider-web.
you cant really blame the meter when it's full of crap & spider-web.
Spider ingress is a design issue.
Back then it was more clean ... now spiders and dust make it really useless under my garage
. Sorry for not cleaning this.
I recently bought an Aneng Q1 (should have read the reviews!) and it was faulty on arrival, it refuses to enter voltage mode. The seller is sending a replacement, but I thought it would be nice if it could be fixed...
I've disassembled it and can't see anything obviously loose or not properly soldered.
I wondered if anyone had any suggestions?
Thanks
I recently bought an Aneng Q1 (should have read the reviews!) and it was faulty on arrival, it refuses to enter voltage mode. The seller is sending a replacement, but I thought it would be nice if it could be fixed...
I've disassembled it and can't see anything obviously loose or not properly soldered.
I wondered if anyone had any suggestions?
Thanks
When you switch the Red lead from voltage to uA or A socket does it automatically goes to current mode? The NCV works?
Does the relay click on power up?
Thanks for the replies.
The DMM switches on (the relay clicks) in uA mode. Inserting the probes into current connector sets the mA setting automatically.
Inserting the probes into the V connector does nothing.
Three buttons don't work at all V, mV and 100mOhm. The other buttons Power, Hold, Range, Hz work OK.
maybe someone forgot to put carbon conductor on bottom pad of the button? try find a way to connect traces on there with some metal, or better yet if feasible, return it to get replacement.
I've been using a bit of metal to close the contacts but no joy.
I have a replacement on the way, but thought it might be nice to fix it and get a free DMM.
give us a couple of hires pcb pics