I switched 100% to IKEA LADDA batteries (AA and AAA) few years ago and i must say i have not seen them leaking. I use them in meters, wall clocks, handheld radios, and just laying in the drawer, so they have been subject to a variety of discharge current conditions.I once was told by a Norwegian friend that those IKEA LADDA AA and AAA rechargeable batteries are coming from the same Japanese factory as the current Panasonic Eneloop Pro.I am using just regular ,not rechargeable ones.
Now I'm thinking that perhaps, rather than run different brands, take the most notorious brand (Duracell) and just test those to discover the best mechanism for leakage FIRST, before testing all the brands?
And maybe get a bunch of small $2 farting novelty gadgets that takes two AA's that has a small standby current. I could get dozens of these on AliExpress and run various combinations.
Product recommendations?
If you believe Duracell is indeed the most notorious brand for leaking, why do you supply them with your high end 121GW?
This is NEWS to me I don't know when Duracell scored this 'notorious brand for leaking' bum rap,
when Enerjizzzer has ruled for years as undisputed King and Queen Of Spewage Land since the 1990s, perhaps the '80s too, for expensive batteries
Duracell, Panasonic, Toshiba and Tandy/Radio Shack brands were a better bet to not leak in most scenarios.
'Genuine' Duracell 9 volt batteries 'may' still be the best 'off the shelf' bet for smoke detectors afaik + afaict,
and as a side bonus, once swapped out of smoke detectors, still work fine at 8.xx volts in multimeters and other low current draw equipments that can tolerate and work from 7 to 9.6 volts.
It's also poor economics to think DJ somehow went cheap on meter accessories..perhaps chasing some Yo-Yo rapper 'notoriety' ? lolby putting in top dollar Duracells
instead of -GOLDEN POWER- or decent Coles alkalines at a third? of the price (oh, duh..)
And besides, once any meter is in new owners hands, it's their baby to manage the battery dept. not the sellers.
fwiw most times I'll toss supplied batteries into a spares tray, and fit and use what I know,
after marking a four digit month/year date on them.
EDIT: where is proven independent statistical data that puts Duracell at the top of the 'notorious' list ?
Common to all alkaline batteries are the negative cap,
Circumcise the bottom cⓇap,
See if the batt still does its attack, on itttz-
Surroundings and other batt.
You're doing it wrong Dave. Put them in something expensive with hard to reach contacts and they'll leak within days.
McBryce.
If you really want them to leak put them in something that holds them in a snug fitting tube that only opens at one end. That they will permanently glue themselves into when they leak so you can't extricate them without destroying the device.
I've lost 3 really nice flashlights and an apple wireless keyboard that way.
Perhaps there is one factor not being considered here. Hydrogen embrittlement of the stainless steel shel of the battery which can lead to micro cracks forming. I have never looked at a leaking battery with a microscope,the idea has only just occurred to me. although Hydrogen embrittlement in metal is something was already aware of it has just never crossed my mind before that the reason batteries leak could be this.
Found in the drawer a 10 years old garden light rechargeable battery leaked from the positive terminal.
Electrons don't "water hammer", at least not in the nonlinear way that fluids can. Aside from contrived systems, current flow is entirely described by linear wave equations (and electron flow, by thermal drift; but actual electron flow in conductors is highly irrelevant for the most part).
Water hammer is most directly analogous to flyback from switching a coil. There is some current flow, then it stops abruptly; the pressure shoots up in response. The peak depends on a number of factors (rate of change, capacitance and resistance), and the flux (pressure * time) depends on the length of the pipe (effectively, the inductance, as a pipe is more of a lossy transmission line than a general wire).
Which no one's accused of damaging a battery.
The idea about mechanical stress... is right, to a certain degree, but so far off as to be considered fringe.
In short, I think you will find the coupling factors are around, I don't know, something like 10^8 too small.
My two cents: I have found alkalines leaked more not when completely discharged, but rather when left on a trickle discharge, say 2uA to 5uA. It could be just a coincidence but that is what I have experienced....
Quite a few people are saying aluminimum torches, so maybe I'll get a bunch of these:
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?trafficChannel=main&d=y&CatId=0&SearchText=aa+aluminium+flashlight<ype=wholesale&SortType=price_asc&groupsort=1&page=1
But they are only single AA
[...] no more alkies, lithium primaries for flashlights in the car and nimh for everything inside.
[...] no more alkies, lithium primaries for flashlights in the car and nimh for everything inside.
I'm with you on that. I've simply stopped using alkaline batteries altogether and don't miss them at all.
" if you've got gear you can't afford to replace or have it fail at the wrong time/danger etc DO NOT TRUST ANY BATTERIES for unattended long term, period."
Sage words.
I had a *priceless* Zenith Transoceanic 1000 multi-band receiver that was given to me by my late grandfather, that became a casualty of such a dumb mistake.
The unit employed nine D batteries, and those belched industrial quantities of corrosive goo.
If you aren't familiar with this beautiful radio, here is a link:
http://elmphotography.com/radios/radio23.htm
[...] no more alkies, lithium primaries for flashlights in the car and nimh for everything inside.
I'm with you on that. I've simply stopped using alkaline batteries altogether and don't miss them at all.
I sincerely hope you both have a long run with that but I've been there already and lost/still losing
[...]
I have never seen an Eneloop leak, nor have I seen a lithium battery leak. Are you saying I've just been lucky?