Anybody uses the clone C245 tip like T12 BC2 "horseshoe"? Most of clones on Ali are only "knife", "straight" and "curved". But I saw dand another types. Without of any feedbacks unfortunately.
I have very good experience with T12 tips (from ksger). I did use and abuse them for 3 years and didn't have any issues. It just works and it was huge upgrade over old station. Hakko is very hard to find for me and when I find reseller it costs $30 per tip + shipping. <$5 working clone including shipping is really good.
I'm using currently chisel/screwdriver style from
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001209387174.html (they have bc-like too), some reviews say tip failed but mine works okay so far just temperature is bit off.
Another seller is this one
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001773877551.html (also have some bc-like) I ordered some beefy tips here but waiting for them to arrive. Again some reviews says tip failed.
I didn't find seller where are reviews and nobody complains about failure. Looks like you need to roll dice. Make tip scream when it arrives so you can report failure quickly if weak is found then you likely win dispute.
I had a problem with JL02 T12 tip from KSGER, cannot calibrate it. After pressing of wires inside the calibration was successful.
Thanks for second link, I didn't see it before. Unfortunately no one photo in feedbacks, how it looks, some of tips are horrible and on the photos.
I don't expect manufacturer to make two competing models so quickly after each other. This would require bad planning at their side. Thus I don't expect upgraded T245 version anytime soon since T3A is new product (few months old). Anything is possible but this one is unlikely. Enjoy your T3A. Stand is only part and not that important part.
I asked one of the sellers if I could get the T3B stand separately, and they're offering it now. Unfortunately, it won't work with the station directly since it's using the original JBC-style 6-pin connector, but I don't think it would be too hard to mod in a connection to the plug on the back of the Aixun considering that it's just a matter of completing the circuit to make the tip sleep.
In your opinions, do you think that this would be a good upgrade station from the KSGER and FX-888D? I've been having a lot of issues with the 6 and 8-layer boards that I use for work (they use high-temp solder from the board house, and I'm looking at a via'd 8-layer ground-plane board). I'm thinking that maybe the JBC-style would work much better at 130W, but I'm not sure if this or the Thermaltronic TMT-2000S would be better or if there's a better option all-together in that under-$200 range. Thanks!
Has anyone probed the T12 iron handle yet to see what mod would be needed to get the temperature readout to work with the KSGER handle? I'd like to continue using the knock-off tips that I have while I save up for the JBC tips. Also, does this station have individual tip calibrations, or is it just one overall calibration like the original stands?
i have the t12 handle from the t3a and the 245 one. i have not tried it on the ksger yet though. i will say its a nice handle, a bit better made imo then the ksger ones, but the grip to tip length is a bit longer then the black aluminum ksger i normally use. and yes the new stand will work but you have to modify the handle plug with the jbc style and make a cable to go from the station to the stand i dont recc opening the station if you dont need to because the front is on there with a ton of tape. i have a stand coming and will do the t3a style on one end and the other end with the jbc style. and imo for t12 tips both systems work about the same if im honest. the display is nicer then the ksger. for 245 tips i do fine the t3a is a bit better. i have not looked at the stand to see if its worth changing the connectors out but i would prob prefer them to be the normal jbc ones anyway.
Would you be able to open up the T12 handle and take some pictures of the insides to see how different it is from the KSGER?
I've been having a lot of issues with the 6 and 8-layer boards that I use for work (they use high-temp solder from the board house, and I'm looking at a via'd 8-layer ground-plane board).
Do you use a bottom heater?
I asked one of the sellers if I could get the T3B stand separately, and they're offering it now. Unfortunately, it won't work with the station directly since it's using the original JBC-style 6-pin connector, but I don't think it would be too hard to mod in a connection to the plug on the back of the Aixun considering that it's just a matter of completing the circuit to make the tip sleep.
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Please, URL?
Thanks, Frans
Well, I believe preheater helps a lot, esp. for lead-free rework. If component damage is a concern (e.g., plastic parts, electrolytes, etc) , then limit preheater temperature to 90-100C. I also use bottom heater to reflow, check this out:
.
There are tiny pre-heaters like this (MHP30):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001800667409.html . Dave suggested it can be used for localized heating to aid soldering, but I'm concerned about pcb warping due to temperature gradient. So, I'd still suggest buying a bigger hotplate.
The downside is that to heat the board it needs to be removed from the device.
If you need an advice which heater to buy, which temperature to dial and how to use, I cannot give you that (I just dial ~100C as it feels a safe temperature). But I'm sure there are many people who can share experience.
I haven't been using a bottom heater, but I do remember they have them at work. Do you think it's just a matter of adding a preheating plate? It's a mixture of power electronics and some small micro-soldering work. Would pre-heating the board ruin some smaller components, and would it also help with those small parts? Something like this? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002788761296.html
Preheating to 100-150C will not damage the components. If you have some cheap low temp plastic connectors (unlikely) those can be shielded. Will help massively with a 8 layer board.
Why are you screwing around with $100 soldering stations on 8 layer boards? If its for your job, get them to buy you proper equipment.
If its for hobby, the Yihua/Gordak 853 are good, or the one you linked is also good too, its a larger size and higher power.
BTW, I (de-)soldered big components with aid of hotair gun. Sometimes just preheating the board with hotair made difference when soldering bulky parts to large copper polygons.
If you look at SteveyG's Unisolder video, at 24:15 he does his 2p test with the Unisolder (130w), JBC DDE (150w), and the Aixun (200w). The Aixun beats both of them. As it should, it's 200w. The DDE is 6x the cost. That pretty much says it all.
i would have liked to see a aixun unit that would also do 210 tips along with the 245 and t12 instead of a separate unit. that would have been fantastic. im not home at the moment to take the t12 handle apart i will take a look when i get home later this week
Looks like there are T210, T115 and a better stand options
I have this B variant on order. It’s half the power but a nicer package overall. The T210 is, afaik, a 20W hand piece so not sure where the 96W will go!
the b version should do both nase and t210 isnt it? seems that way...
but do you really need all 3? why not skip the t210. wouldnt the t245 and the nase cover most of it?
the typical reason you cannot have t245 with either of the smaller ones is they change the terminals betwern thermocouple and heater. but the smaller ones should be same as each other right?
it should be:
t245 + t470
t210 + nase (or 115 whatever is called)
Looks like there are T210, T115 and a better stand options
I have this B variant on order. It’s half the power but a nicer package overall. The T210 is, afaik, a 20W hand piece so not sure where the 96W will go!
thats why i held off until i saw some tests of it. keep us posted when you get to test it out. i may order one. 245 are my main tips but the 210 and 115 are nice for some finer work at times.
The 245 is 24v, the 210 is 12v. For both to be in one of these units seems unrealistic/impossible. If it could be done, the T3A would probably be the better platform to do it. It's easier to scale the 24v down to 12v than 12v up to 24v. Second, there would be firmware issues. I assume the firmwares aren't open source. Third, while they physically look similar, they seem to be different beasts. The T3B is advertised as having over voltage, over current, power, short circuit, and temperature protections (probably a mix of hardware and software). The T3A doesn't seem to have any of that.
When i saw that and asked about the protections built in they told me they are almost the same except for the tip and psu. and that they fall under where they say "automatic protection" and "super static protection" i wonder if its really the same thing though. it also says "low voltage protection" on many of the t3a adds. its probably a different way of advertising the same things imo i have not tried to purposely cause an issue though to see what happens.
Hmmm.... Back on page 2, SteveyG said that there was no current limiting. Guess we'll see once we get complete tear downs of both units.
interesting i forgot about that. we will have to see once someone had the new one if its just advertising then or if it actually does have that protection in place. maybe the company doesnt know what is really going on then lol. ill respond to the email and ask them once again and see what they say ill tell them what steveyg found.
Hello friends, I'm new around here, how is everyone? I recently bought a T3A they think they can help me get stuck on the home screen
