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#125 Reply
Posted by
bianchifan
on 21 Apr, 2015 12:58
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the current-sense mod per se is not really helpful, as you've found out. The current consumption of the BLDC fan doesn't vary significantly enough to be useful (indicate stall).
I do think so, too.
It could be that the on-board RC-oscillator is a bit wonky in your chips, meaning it runs quite a bit too slow.
Hmm.. maybe I'll solder back the crystal..
As I told above, sometimes the station starts more than once, even without current mod.
FW Display, FAN on, off, FW display, FAN on, off.., "- - -" and running.
Nevertheless I did a little change to the Fan_test function for more comfort.
So no need any more for turning the switch always on and off.
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#126 Reply
Posted by
madworm
on 21 Apr, 2015 14:38
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If the chip resets multiple times, I suggest looking at
a) power supply: stable 5V?
b) enough decoupling capacitors?
That definitely sounds like a very unhappy AVR.
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#127 Reply
Posted by
littlebill
on 21 Apr, 2015 16:28
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my unit came in today,
i wonder if they redid the programming, mine seems to show the actual temperature and seems to have zero overshoot,
mine actually seems to work very similar to your modification, i will post a video of it running when i get a minute
My hardware:
Youyue 858D+
PCB ver 6.0 20140415
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#128 Reply
Posted by
madworm
on 21 Apr, 2015 16:36
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That should be interesting!
A bit of caution though. Only because it doesn't display overshoot doesn't mean there isn't any
Or have you actually measured temperature at the nozzle?
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#129 Reply
Posted by
littlebill
on 21 Apr, 2015 17:22
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i was watching the blinking . which indicates more so then the temperature number that said, i redid the video and used a temp prob best i could by myself, let me know what you think,
for me i honestly think its fine.
whats the trick to imbed the youtube video here?
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#130 Reply
Posted by
madworm
on 21 Apr, 2015 17:43
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Your video contains some sort of music... it is blocked here.
Now I have to use the proxy plugin again...
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#131 Reply
Posted by
madworm
on 21 Apr, 2015 17:47
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It runs quite a bit hotter than "advertised", doesn't it?
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#132 Reply
Posted by
littlebill
on 21 Apr, 2015 17:47
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sorry, didn't even realize it was on
how do i embed?
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#133 Reply
Posted by
madworm
on 21 Apr, 2015 17:48
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I think you just paste the link.
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#134 Reply
Posted by
littlebill
on 21 Apr, 2015 17:49
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not showing up like yours, mine just shows the url
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#135 Reply
Posted by
madworm
on 21 Apr, 2015 17:50
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It doesn't like "https"
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#136 Reply
Posted by
littlebill
on 21 Apr, 2015 17:52
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that fixed it ty
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#137 Reply
Posted by
madworm
on 21 Apr, 2015 17:53
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZj_Dv1Q3IM
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#138 Reply
Posted by
Leonelf
on 02 May, 2015 16:57
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I flashed your firmware on an ATMega328, but the thing just stays in this "FANSpd" mode. turning the dial for the airspeed doesnt do anything
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#139 Reply
Posted by
madworm
on 02 May, 2015 19:03
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Did you read the manual?
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#140 Reply
Posted by
Leonelf
on 03 May, 2015 09:05
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the stations' manual just says that the knob exists to adjust temperature.
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#141 Reply
Posted by
madworm
on 03 May, 2015 10:24
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What are you talking about? There are NO knobs for temperature adjustment.
Knob --> fanspeed
buttons --> temperature + options
It appears to me you've got a completely different device.
And by 'manual' I meant the one I wrote for the custom firmware. Before you complain, please RTFM!
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#142 Reply
Posted by
Leonelf
on 03 May, 2015 17:54
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sry, was tired and misspelled^^
It *should* control the fanspeed, but doesnt (at least w/ your firmware). but I read the intro post (and saw the fanspeed circuit), so I assume my device is just damaged inside or so, since the fanspeed should be adjustable independently from the firmware.
I've read the readme and saw that "FANSpd" means that it's out of range, but turning the knob didn't do anything.
I'll open the thing up and look for the board rev. anyways^^
EDIT: Datecode is 20140415 which was confirmed to work by "Aric" in the comments of your ino file, so I assume my unit is semi-dead...
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#143 Reply
Posted by
madworm
on 03 May, 2015 18:30
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If the fan doesn't ever spin or the fan speed doesn't change at all when turning the knob, check the potentiometer!
The type used in the device is shall we say not the most reliable design. I've had to replace the one in mine, the wiper didn't make proper contact with the resistive element anymore and it behaved quite erratic. I was lucky and found the exact type on ebay.
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#144 Reply
Posted by
Leonelf
on 03 May, 2015 18:38
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turning the poti changes the resistance (measured it), so I assume some rest of the circuit is improper... I saw an empty transistor footprint w/ tin filled holes
EDIT:
Got a new unit from the seller on amazon (replacement). Now your firmware works. I assume the old unit was defective. Love your firmware!
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#145 Reply
Posted by
krivx
on 02 Jul, 2015 15:57
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Has anyone looked at modifying this firmware for use on non-Atmega boards, like the S3F94C4 in the Yihua? The pinout is not exactly the same but could an Atmega with altered firmware be implanted?
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#146 Reply
Posted by
moemoe
on 09 Jul, 2015 19:54
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#147 Reply
Posted by
ljkenny
on 30 Sep, 2015 11:06
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I just bought a YouYue 858d+ from
HERE, but a UYue turned up instead.
Inside it looks like brainwash's, but the 2014 version, rather than the 2011 one shown in his pictures.
@brainwash: Did you ever get round to reverse engineering it?
I saw the pinouts you traced, but did you ever get round to re-purposing/re-flashing the device?
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#148 Reply
Posted by
wguibas
on 20 Oct, 2015 00:52
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Made a board to adapt the samsung 20 pin chip to the atmega328P. I had to cut 2 traces on the board because the digits and the up/down buttons share 2 pins on the samsung. The gray and yellow wires connect the atmel to the digits and they are working. The rest of the functions seem to work also, fan speed, cradle sense and temp sense and buttons. This original board is pretty lousy, there are about 6 or seven resistors that don't match the silkscreen value marked with a line next to them. I wonder if I should change them. I also have to adjust the overshoot.
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#149 Reply
Posted by
krivx
on 20 Oct, 2015 06:32
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Made a board to adapt the samsung 20 pin chip to the atmega328P. I had to cut 2 traces on the board because the digits and the up/down buttons share 2 pins on the samsung. The gray and yellow wires connect the atmel to the digits and they are working. The rest of the functions seem to work also, fan speed, cradle sense and temp sense and buttons. This original board is pretty lousy, there are about 6 or seven resistors that don't match the silkscreen value marked with a line next to them. I wonder if I should change them. I also have to adjust the overshoot.
Care to share the files?