Hi,
Here is my contribution: feet for the HP/Agilent 8590 spectrum analyzer series.
A little background: this series uses rubber feet around the case (front and back). These rubber parts get really worn out with time and in my case, the two units I purchased came without any feet. I think that the previous owner either "forgot" to put them back on or, my suspicion, the devices where installed in some rack or whatever.
Using these devices without the feet is not reasonable, because the metal case around the device has a joint on the lower side. If you put the device flat on a table, it will wobble to the left and right due to this joint.
Also, without the back feet, you cannot place the device in vertical position, for example in case of storage with small footprint.
This means I really needed some feet.
Casually, I am working on a software project that requires to capture 3D points using a Microscribe arm (https://revware.net/products/microscribe-portable-cmm/).
Also, I finally managed to repair an old unit that was a dumpster case and which I luckily brought home with me. The problem was one of encoders was broken, as well as one of the axis counter IC.
Anyway, having a Microscribe and knowing how to use a CAD software, I started the reverse engineering process by digitizing the surface where the feet attach to.
I guided my design through pictures of the HP 8594E, in order to make the front feet look as close to the original as possible and reasonable.
The back feet, however, are considerably different. That is because I actually disliked the original HP design and, also, I had to have print material consumption in mind.
So I designed them a little different, but I think the result is actually pretty good.
I had the feet printed in our office, where we have Markforged printers. I used a Markforged Mark Two with their Onyx material (https://markforged.com/mark-two/). This material is not the toughest of the available materials, but it is still very robust. In fact, it is unbreakable with your bear hands and can compete with aluminium. The only draw-back is the color: this material is only available in black and it is not easy to paint (I tried on a different component).
So the feet on my device are black instead of white-ish.
The surface finishing and overall tolerance is miles away from cheap 100 Euro China-Clone-Printer. Especially if you spend a moment figuring out what is the most favorable position to print each part (I left that to my colleague who operates the printers).
Attached are pictures and an archive with the STL files. Please note that the front feet are made of two different models - you need to print 2 of each. This is obviously because they are mirrored (Up-Left and Down-Right <-> Up-Right and Down-Left). Obvious? Well, I got the first trial wrong and printed 4 of the same kind...
Good luck!
Regards,
Vitor
Hi,
While the feet of your device are completely different from the feet used on the HP 8590 series, they show one of the reasons I decided to redesign them.
Notice that the screws have to be extra long! I made the feet, so that a much shorter screw can be used. Also, the feet go around the edge, securing the case (which the original 8590 feet already did, too).
Regards,
Vitor
regarding those rear feet, this photo of a HP 3581A I found may come in handy.
Thanks for sharing some of my replacement part designs.
I have a few a couple more bits which I didn't see listed (I could have just missed them).
Lever for HP PCB daughter boards: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2909930
Valhalla 2703 (and 2705) Front Handle: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2910473
I make new items as I come across things I need to repair, so the list gets added to as the need arrises.
BTW How is your 2703 going now? I scored a really nicely working one unlike your problem child.
It was OK the last time I used it, I need to do a calibration on it, haven't done that yet, but I picked up a Fluke 540B thermal transfer standard (which I also had to repair) so that I can calibrate it with my Fluke 341A DC calibrator (which I also repaired).
I will do a video on it eventually!
Base part for vertical gain knob for SC 504 Oscilloscope
https://grabcad.com/library/vertical-gain-knob-for-tek-sc504-1
The files are too large to post here.
Printing this was a long exercise as the photo shows. On the left was an attempt to mold the part. No go with deep thin walls. The key settings as I remember were Cura Fine print settings for base, with 92% density (supposedly optimum for strength), used PLA+ at print temp of 210C. The disk on the end was required to get adequate base adhesion and is sanded off or otherwise removed.
Odd.. found a file for a Wavepro/wavemaster bezel some time ago but the page is gone. I still have the files if anyone wants them but I guess there's a reason why it was redrawn so I'd rather not upload the files here...
Those who ever serviced one of those know why you'd want a replacement bezel I actually considered having one 3D printed and perhaps order a small batch injection molded if the file was OK. If there's ever enough interest for that I may still attempt it...
HP feet are easy to find since somebodu in China tooled up to make them... the tilt bails, no so easy... at least the last time that I looked.
On the subject of the 419A, how about the little plastic thingummywidgets that take a PK screw and clip into a chassis hole, used to insulate Guard from Ground? My instrument is short a few, and hence not so well assembled as it used to be!
I worked on a similar (but simpler) push-on knob for the E36xxA (E3610A, E3620A, E3630A etc.) power supplies. These are friction fit, so take a little finessing on the sizing. Knurling on my prints is a little rough, but not so objectionable; I think I need better quality PLA. Here it is: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3546393
I like this thread too
Nice work for the 3d printed parts, i wish i could do that loll no experience at all
I would love to do 2 very old buttons , they have around 2 inches long shafts, for an 57 years old Phillips vintage tube radio from my father