So.. what I will do next???
30 gauge wirewrap wire is your friend - run them all all to a dip socket that can plug into a programmer.
Could you not directly solder just the OE wire to the flash chip itself?
Meanwhile a hero with a FW1.16 is needed so we can spread the last FW in the world: thinking on buying some U1 flash them and send those to you guys, anyone interested?
Hm... 1.11
I have recently acquired a THS720A and this is a very interesting thread indeed! It came without the serial cable, and I wish to make one. I read the whole thread and there are some pinouts given, but I was not able to understand clearly what the connections are. Different sources also seem to follow different numbering conventions, adding to my confusion. I am attaching a picture with the pins clearly marked and labelled 1,2,.., 8 and a,b,c,...,i. Could someone with a working cable please post what the connections are with reference to this naming convention. Thanks.
I ordered a air nozzle for the TSOP40 and the adapter for the TL866... I AM NOT GIVING UP.
Meanwhile a hero with a FW1.16 is needed so we can spread the last FW in the world: thinking on buying some U1 flash them and send those to you guys, anyone interested?
So while I am waiting for the parts to come in let´s modify the battery. I chose the 5000mA solution like posplayr did here.
Unhappy of that plus pole TEK crap patent solution, i decided to take apart the battery lid, wait a minute why no use a solder wick?
Tested with 1.5A current the voltage drop af that thing is just 30mV... so cool.
Does the TEK have a reversal voltage protection if the battery is inserted other way? mmmm shottky diode?
I found this assembled battery pack that is mostly ready to go for $15: http://www.batteryspace.com/nicdbatterypack48v30ah4xcendtoendwithtabs.aspx It has tabs at each end. Its Nicad so it should work with the internal charger (or the external charger) with no problems once equipped with the connections. I'll need to either add the connection ring or modify the top connector to make it work. The connection ring is my first choice since I have one of the external chargers. I'll get one and try it if no one knows of a problem.
My original solution was a pack I made of rechargable C batteries. The 1.2V batteries would give me a "low power" warning after about 10 minutes. With the 1.5V Eneloops I get about an hour before the notification comes up. The C batteries wouldn't even last 40mins, Eneloops last about 90 mins.
My original solution was a pack I made of rechargable C batteries. The 1.2V batteries would give me a "low power" warning after about 10 minutes. With the 1.5V Eneloops I get about an hour before the notification comes up. The C batteries wouldn't even last 40mins, Eneloops last about 90 mins.
+1, ancient NiCd C cells simply can't beat current Eneloop AA cells when it comes to run times, not to mention the high self discharge of those NiCd type. As my 2nd post in this thread, I use Eneloop "Pro" which has even higher capacity than regular white ones.
The only disadvantage that I can think of is, we can not rely on the scope's internal charging to change modern NiMh cells, especially in series, and I worry it might toast them as it looks like the charging mechanism is using dumb slow constant current charging, cmiiw.