If you must (or your needs don't demand a better box) use a Linksys, Netgear, etc, consider dd-wrt as an alternative to the stock firmware - it gives your gear a nice little breath of life.
If you must (or your needs don't demand a better box) use a Linksys, Netgear, etc, consider dd-wrt as an alternative to the stock firmware - it gives your gear a nice little breath of life.
Only briefly. DD falls over pretty quick, it's pretty ancient code.
If you must (or your needs don't demand a better box) use a Linksys, Netgear, etc, consider dd-wrt as an alternative to the stock firmware - it gives your gear a nice little breath of life.
Only briefly. DD falls over pretty quick, it's pretty ancient code.
Still leaps better than what's installed at the factory.
If you must (or your needs don't demand a better box) use a Linksys, Netgear, etc, consider dd-wrt as an alternative to the stock firmware - it gives your gear a nice little breath of life.
Only briefly. DD falls over pretty quick, it's pretty ancient code.
Still leaps better than what's installed at the factory.
Never seen the factory code overflow the NVRAM.
Interesting, has this been a problem for you? I've never run across it.
Oh, this one was fun alright.
I couldn't use it in the SDS because it's minimum RPM is too high, so I used it in my 24V Bosch. It ate the battery quick and then the charger refused to charge until an hour later when the battery had cooled down. Then, naturally, it was another 10 second blat on the drill and I was through.
It is rather a large core drill though.
With a hole that big, why wouldn't you just mark a circle on the wall and use a keyhole saw?
They are all wired back to the board in a ring main configuration via a 16A, 30mA RCBO. Plenty of power.
What's the point of a 16A ring? And it's a ring final, a ring main is a very different thing.
What's the point of a 16A ring? And it's a ring final, a ring main is a very different thing.
Sure, it's not necessary to wire a ring on a 16A circuit with 2.5mm conductors, but the first and final outlets are so close to the board, why not.
Well, for starters it contravenes BS7671.
Well, for starters it contravenes BS7671.Mmm, I can run two radials from the one 16A breaker though. That's easy to modify.
Now on to todays work. I didn't get as much done as I would have liked because I was instructed to install a curtain rail and some blinds.
Over the last couple of days I have managed to complete the flooring. That was a bit of a nuisance because I finished all the packs of flooring and needed one more board to complete the job. Luckily my local Wickes had a smashed up pack in stock for £3.
I have then knocked together some shelving from yet more ruined furniture boards. It was lucky that my Bosch blade finally arrived - ebay . I bought a cheap blade in the meantime which managed to do one cut and then on the second cut sparks started flying off of it!!! That blade is now resting nicely in the bin. The Bosch blade made a nice job of the worktops which have also been completed.
Lastly, I have moved my little machines in and bolted them down. They are only babies, nothing like Robrenz' machines, but they get stuff done well enough for me.
I now have to get on with getting the data cabling run down.
What is the brand and model of your mini milling machine ? I got the exact same, but Harbor Freight brand but they discontinued it, I'm interested in case I need parts.
Regarding flooring. I've found very neat stuff: PVC laminate. You just stick it on the floor and the rugged stuff has a 0.5mm clear PU layer on top which is very resillient. I dropped molten solder on it and it doesn't leave any marks. Most shops try to charge you an arm and a leg because it is really good. It looks and feels like real wood and it is more durable than vinyl and wooden flooring. OTOH it is very cheap to manufacture so it can be found for a low price if you shop around a bit.