Author Topic: KID-R480A Loud bang and smoke  (Read 4093 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline offlineTopic starter

  • Contributor
  • Posts: 10
  • Country: gb
Re: KID-R480A Loud bang and smoke
« Reply #25 on: September 05, 2019, 07:33:53 pm »
I'm fairly certain the transformer is the right way because one of the bullet connectors on the vaccuum fell off
The burned trace is connected to the cross cooler, before I removed all the relays. I did try testing the vacuum circuit alone
having one transformer ac input on vac pin. but pressing the lcd vacuum it never came on.

The green line is as if looking through the board yellow is on top.


« Last Edit: September 05, 2019, 07:36:07 pm by offline »
 

Offline mikerj

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 3240
  • Country: gb
Re: KID-R480A Loud bang and smoke
« Reply #26 on: September 06, 2019, 11:38:55 am »
You might want to check your maths.  The plated current matches up almost perfectly with the total power at 240v, so how would this be a 120v device?
We're agreed that this device takes over 4000 Watts, correct?
It's only the voltage that is in dispute.

There is a 60 Amp, two pole, trip curve C breaker on the input.
(As a C breaker it would trip instantly at 5-10X, i.e. 300-600 Amp.)
There was a yellow IEC 60309 plug on the unit
There is a transformer (which I claim is step-up) on the vacuum pump.
It blew up on 240V.

The plate on the device states 18 Amps and 220v which is almost exactly 4kW.  Why would the plate be showing both the incorrect voltage and incorrect current rating?  As someone else mentioned, having such a heavy consumer on a 120v circuit also makes little sense.
 

Offline Renate

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 1460
  • Country: us
Re: KID-R480A Loud bang and smoke
« Reply #27 on: September 06, 2019, 01:34:15 pm »
Well, the specification plate is just wrong.
Either this was a special order or else modified by an idiot.
Just look at how the transformer for the vacuum pump was mounted.
That doesn't look very professional.

It's all good to debug and repair that PCB, but the important question is still unresolved:

What is the voltage rating of the 3 heaters?

If the heaters are 120V, that means that this is some factory special order.
If the heaters are 240V, that means that somebody thought that they could modify this for 120V before they realized that the heaters wouldn't work correctly and they sold/dumped it.

If you are lucky, this is the second case.

A bit of forensics here would help.
Are all the internal connections made with exactly the same connectors or is the strange transformer different?
Did the 60 Amp circuit breaker look like it was replaced?
Does the shaded pole fan look like it was factory mounted?
 

Offline zus

  • Contributor
  • Posts: 11
  • Country: gb
Re: KID-R480A Loud bang and smoke
« Reply #28 on: November 05, 2023, 10:54:21 am »
I recently acquired this machine and I have the same issues lamp and laser do not work.  The 2 middle ceramic heaters do not come on but others do. Otherwise everthing works including  touch screen. There are 2 switches on the right side labelled as Number 1 and 6, what are they for? I thought they were for the heaters but do not seem to do anything. I have not opened the machine yet. Please would like advice how to fix the issues or at least some information as not much I could find except here. I understand ths is an old Thread but any info and help would be appreciated. Offline and others thank you for all the info already posted.
 

Offline zus

  • Contributor
  • Posts: 11
  • Country: gb
Re: KID-R480A Loud bang and smoke
« Reply #29 on: December 12, 2023, 06:55:55 am »
Just an update for info and may be useful to those who still have this machine. I managed to repair the BGA machine. I had an issue on the power relay board with one of the triac BTA41-600B and I changed it and the two BTA20-600B too. It appears  there was a spark  there at some point and one of its leg sort of fused as per picture and dark residual of the spark is evident on the heat sink. The BTA41-600B with the issue tested normal though.  The light and laser I managed to repair them, the issue was with the switches, which was damaged due to force pressing I guess. The outer shell was loose and internal  spring was missing. I found kind of similar ones on aliexpress. To note the switches have a bulb inside and the light  should come on when the switch is switched to the on position but they do not because  from factory they were not connected. They have 5 pins at the back but only 2 pins are used. As for working the lights and laser with the LCD touch screen this was never set from factory to work. As the output wires are not connected as the author's of this thread queried what was the output 1, 2 and 3 for? I can hear the relay clicking when touched on the lcd screen but it does not work because the outputs were never connected from factory to the light and laser. It kind of does not make sense why would you use the LCD touch to put the lights and laser on when already can do it much easier from the convenience of the physical switches on the machine. To note in the instruction manual only switches is mentioned for operation of the light and laser. The instruction manual, which can be found on line is not so accurate with the description numbers titled "parts name".
The 2 middle heaters works now as I tested the resistance of the old ones and was in megaohms (faulty), the new ones only read between 75 to 150 ohms if I can recall.  The 2 switches on right side of the machine labelled No1 and 2, the No1 is for the bottom furthest left side single ir heater and No6 is for the bottom furthest right side single ir heater.  The user interface is not so easy and it takes a while of getting used to. This version of the Machine was manufactured in July 2012, 220v at 16 amp. The  author's version the light and laser lcd touch can be found in the assist menu but mine can be found in the main menu. I guess the same LCD interface was used for this BGA machine but tweaked a little  and updated with new version of the same model and adjustment was made in new revision of the software may be. The major difference compared with the author's one, mine does not have the transformer inside. It seems the author's one was designed to operate on 120V - (yellow 16amp plug) not 220V as he and others suspected modification must have been made or is factory designed to work on 120V? Mine is rated at 16 amp not 18 amp. This machine is really heavy about 40kg. I am lucky to have got it all working as it should do. Hope someone find this useful.
« Last Edit: December 12, 2023, 07:14:32 am by zus »
 


Share me

Digg  Facebook  SlashDot  Delicious  Technorati  Twitter  Google  Yahoo
Smf