ok but if the regulators were shorted it might mean that there was a shorted load connected to them and that is why they maybe over heated and died after a while. like one of the op amps. or a cap shorted out and went open.
idk how to check the sockets though, replace. I had this bullshit where I pressed it in and it would work. then after i reassembly chassis it stop working. I open it up and push on chip it works again.
its like playing peek a boo with a troll
if you think you fixed anything by messing with the socket just replace the damn thing, its not reliable, i think you can get 30V randomly if the wrong socket goes up. meaning bye bye load (and a reason to fuse your prototypes even if your on a lab suply). i bought like 20 fuse holders and a whole set of fuses so I don't have to worry about malfunctioning opamps burning things
but thankfully when my op amp socket acted up, it dropped down to 3V max. idk how it decide on which set point to fall down to. maybe its built so it goes down to a low level if it fails, but I can't verify this... also it did once go to 17V when set to 15V I think, which caused a fan to burn out (otherwise tolerance circuit)
if your setpoint is acting up, that is either a reference drifting (it all based on reference), resistor divider or op amp malfunctioning.
or it might be nooise from a broken capacitor causing circuits not to settle (filter went haywire)
intermittant connector might cause things to dance around too. 14x+ magnification and a healthy dose of paranoia help find this problem
I think that really bad connector develop sensitivity to current load (resistance changes with load) and probobly temperature, which causes very minor motion due to expansion, makes it ACT up. *
*could it be a bad pin on a op amp making a very high impedance that ends up effecting the setpoint of a voltage circuit?
when your done fixing it, hook it up to a high current load (i.e. big ass resistor) and leave it on for a while to make sure it won't malfunction after 2 minutes and make danger
I have a feeling these power supplies probobly have distributed damage (lots of minor wear and tear) and that replacing stuff generally helps them. i think they basically get generally clapped out
when you screw in the pCB it gets flexed and stretched a little bit. might work when its out then stop working when you put it in. this is mechanical damage
the other thing you can do, recommended, is to reheat every solder joint on it, but it needs to be well fluxed. this means you need to do a big ass clean up after wards. I would do it for a 1kW supply though. but renember it needs to be well fluxed, and that means big cleanup. if you just do it dry to make it easy to clean it might not help things. like probobly a few hours of scrubbing to get it really nice, and you possibly loose some text and component indicators if your not careful. if you carefully apply flux, on both sides, and clean as you go, its not much worse then other penal labor
. And heat can reveal problems, so you need to grid the board and test in between doing squares if you want the most benefit and highest success rate from this method to say.. maybe identify a bad bond wire or something from heat. where it goes from intermitant to broken. if you do it all at once you can get a fix, but you won't know where.