3D printer

[Jan Audio]

I helped build a 3D printer yesterday, this kit looks good, just want to share, i am not a salesman.
This model is it : Ender 3

Building is very simple, without soldering any wire, just some screws.
Only it is to small for me, i like to make synthesizer casings in the future.

So what you using a 3D printer for ?

By the way : make sure you get the pro version, then your PSU wont catch fire ( made in china ).

bye

[Tetzly]

I got a non pro version sitting in a box, brand new, unbuilt. Now it might sit longer....

[agehall]

I mostly use mine for a lot of prototyping and jigs for woodworking. And when you need a case for your latest project, it's super simple to whip one up.

[exe]

Small replacement plastic parts, plastic models for fun, but the main purpose is to print enclosures for my projects.

I also printed a keyboard (this one: https://github.com/abstracthat/dactyl-manuform).

[CatalinaWOW]

Knobs, repair parts for sewing machines, repair parts for kitchen appliances, cases for instruments, drill guides for making PC boards, toys and gifts.  One thing on my print list is a digital sundial.  A little googling will find it for you.  Literally shows the time in dot matrix numerals, and is one of the best demonstrations of something that would be impractical to build by just about any other fabrication technology.  In the design stages of custom multi-pole multi-throw rotary switches for a couple of projects.

It isn't a replacement for all fabrication, but the neat thing is that you hit the go button and basically don't have to do anything else until you pull the almost finished part off the machine.  You can do other useful things while the machine is working.  Even using CNC mills and lathes requires more attention between go and done for almost all parts.  What you can build is limited mostly by your imagination and modeling skills.

[sn4k3]

If is too small go for CR10S Pro (300x300x400)

[beanflying]

If is too small go for CR10S Pro (300x300x400)

Or Buy one of each Then decide you need a third one for flexibles so buy a second Ender Pro with glass bed and Flexion extruder. Then put them all in enclosures because it works better......   

Seriously handy for rapid prototyping of enclosures, clips, feet, knobs. Todays project is a custom battery clamp for my HP419A Null voltmeter to suit totally different size packs going in.

[helius]

This is a kind of drive-by question, but I figured I could ask it in an active thread or search for the answer myself, and I'm less confident in search results for this particular phrasing.
If you don't run the printer yourself, but use a printing service like i.Materialise or Shapeways, how much control should you expect over the CAM aspects like slicing options and support structures? Is there a standard CAM data format like there is for CAD models (STL, IGES)? Thanks.

[beanflying]

Most online services talk STL's for better or for worse.

I would think you will get far more control over layers and infill with the smaller operators but at a higher price/item. Support is potentially ugly if done automatically and time consuming to get right so ugly is more likely with the big online houses. Generally try and design without them if possible.

My current CAD weapon of choice is Fusion 360 then export the highest grade STL it can muster. The other CAD options have pluses and minuses but as it is free to small users fairly hard to go past.

$2-300 doesn't take long to get back and the free slicers like sli3er are easy to drive.

[Jan Audio]

You got me with the knobs, i,m a big knob fan, i order at tayda for 50 cent,
dont know if these printed knobs will be that nice, and need to print more then 500 to get my money back.

The dimensions 220 x 220 x 250 mm is another reason to start with SMD soldering, maybe it just fits if lucky.

I took a quick look at the software today, and looking not bad, dont know how to make anything with it, maybe i should use blender with it to export/import some mesh ?

[Jan Audio]

I got a non pro version sitting in a box, brand new, unbuilt. Now it might sit longer....

Maybe you can buy the PSU seperate.

[metrologist]

I'm using the stock non-pro power supply on my Ender3 and it has been no problem. I printed PCB standoffs the other night.

[Tetzly]

Maybe you can buy the PSU seperate.

So is updating the firmware the fix? Or is it a hardware thing? I plan to build a custom enclosure for noise/fume abatement, and maybe I could install a sensor and add some type of thermal cutoff switch or something? I am just a hobby guy, but that sounds like something I could pull off. I could return the printer and get something else...always an option.

[beanflying]

Don't panic ! The Meanwell option on the 'Pro' is a better supply but it doesn't necessarily mean the standard one is particularly bad.

Check out 'Teaching Tech' https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbgBDBrwsikmtoLqtpc59Bw for low BS content about the Ender 3 and Pro and firmware. 'Makers Muse' is worth a look too some of the other so called reviewers are tossers looking for their referral $ or pushing an agenda over substance.

[NiHaoMike]

I recall the issue with the PSU is actually the connector, there were some XT60 connectors with loose crimps. Just replace it if it seems questionable.

[Jan Audio]

I am curious : how much steps does this thing has ?
Precision: ±0.1mm

Suppose you buy the "bigger one", does it has the same ammount of steps, how does it works ? ( the thing is only 5cm bigger and cost almost double the price )

[metrologist]

I think a full step resolution is 0.06mm typically. Then you can microstep. Most of these stepper motors are 200 full steps per revolution, and then you just need to calc linear motion based on the lead pitch (Z) or pulley size (X/Y).

[Jan Audio]

So the bigger one also has more steps ?

[CatalinaWOW]

You got me with the knobs, i,m a big knob fan, i order at tayda for 50 cent,
dont know if these printed knobs will be that nice, and need to print more then 500 to get my money back.

The dimensions 220 x 220 x 250 mm is another reason to start with SMD soldering, maybe it just fits if lucky.

I took a quick look at the software today, and looking not bad, dont know how to make anything with it, maybe i should use blender with it to export/import some mesh ?

It doesn't make sense to print readily available knobs.  But lots of knobs for TE are not available, or command crazy prices ($15 range).  Payback ranges from instant to a few pieces there.  The ability to create a knob that exactly matches your needs is worth something too.  How about nested knobs for stereo functions or a knob with detents?

You will need to get familiar with some piece of solid modeling software.  They all have steep learning curves and different advantages and weaknesses.  Blender is one choice.  Better for free form creation, not so good for matching precision dimensions.  I like to be able to easily design to size and CAD programs are better at that.  I use FreeCAD, the price is right and the user interface clicked fairly well for me.  Fusion 360 is another choice that is free for hobby users, and recommended by many. 

After you get a solid model you will have to use slicing software to prepare for printing.  There are a couple of good choices here.  I use Ultimaker CURA, I don't recall the other good free choices.

Be prepared for some learning curve on 3D printing.  I went through several dozen trials learning how to get what I wanted on the kind of parts I do and on my printer.  Lots of variables, and at least in my case there were some defects in the Ender 3 that needed fixed before it reliably generated good prints.

[metrologist]

200 steps per rev is common for many stepper motor sizes. You will get the same resolution if you have the same lead pitch or pulley size. The larger machines are usually just larger.

I use freecad -> export to stl -> cura3d export to gcode -> load to printer

[Jan Audio]

in my case there were some defects in the Ender 3 that needed fixed before it reliably generated good prints.

So you printed your own fixes ?

The larger machines are usually just larger.

I thought so.

[CatalinaWOW]

in my case there were some defects in the Ender 3 that needed fixed before it reliably generated good prints.

So you printed your own fixes ?

Unfortunately none of the fixes were repairable with printable parts.  The Ender 3 design in my opinion is fundamentally good, but an internal short in the heated bed killed the composite build plate and the power supply.  Then an improper alignment internal to the filament heater made some other problems.  Because of these defects, and the poor response of the vendor I recommend that all stay away from Gearbest.

[beanflying]

I haven't run across anyone online having bed issues with Creality other than stress induced ones before they improved their wire support.

My three Creality printers were brought direct from them via AliExpress or their now local evilbay dropshipping account. The two issues I had were sorted quickly and appropriately by them. Gearbest was going to be fractionally cheaper on the CR-10S but I went with the manufacturer as I regard Gearbest as a box seller with zero clues of what's in the box. 

A recent stash of parts for just in case and ongoing maintenance was an easy transaction via Aliexpress with 3 or 4 messages to get a non site listed part included in the order. Well handled and faultless service.

[bson]

I recently got a CR-10S and all I needed to do was:

* Assemble: loctite 243 on all bolts except the few involving plastic (forget off hand which ones), retighten all fasterners, make sure cables are free to move, ground the USB shield to a bolt on the chassis (it was very flaky without this as the shield isn't internally hooked up to the chassis or the mains earth prong).  It also got a ferrite on the USB cable for good measure.  Using the cable that came with it to hook up a rpi 3b+ running OctoPi.

* Update the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9, compiled with 25 point mesh leveling for the 300x300 bed
* Bed four corner knob leveling adjustment
* Bed 25 pt mesh leveling
* E steps/mm calibration
* Flow calibration in cura
* Verify X/Y/Z steps/mm values are accurate (they are, only E was wildly off)
* Heater PID calibration (6 cycles)
* Rebuild firmware with my printer's calibration and my temps (end 185˚, bed 43˚ measured to 40˚ using a FLIR gun, I suppose I should see if it has configurable thermistor calibration data) as default values

I did have to turn the Y jerk WAY down or it would shift when the bed is all the way back; the large bed with glass is pretty heavy and the belt likely slips is my best guess.  I think I set X=10, Y=5, Z=0.5, E=10 or some such.  Same with acceleration; I led it accelerate twice as fast in X as Y, there's much less weight on the X belt since it just moves the hotend.

I've only had to level the bed once since I went to 25 pt mesh leveling.  I did have to add M420 S1 (if I recall) to the printer initialization in Cura to always enable the mesh for all print jobs.  So I didn't bother replacing the knobs or anything.  It prints reliably every time.  I use hairspray on the bed, never wash it off, just scrape it to smooth with the scraper they kindly provided, then a very thin fresh layer and give it a minute to dry.  Sticks like nobody's business without rafts or brims, although I do start with 2 rounds of skirt on all prints and clean off the nozzle with a pair of tweezers if it looks messy.  I also made G28 (XY home) leave the mesh setting intact as a build option, but I'm not sure how well that works since all my gcode explicitly enables it anyway.  The mesh leveling feature is pretty awesome; on my printer the X traversal is slightly bowed up at center, but no problems - it does however require 5x5 points for this size bed and bow shape, instead of the default 3x3.

Printing is using OctoPi (I enabled the M73 progress command and added the OctoPrint plugin).
Fusion 360 direct to Cura, direct to OctoPrint.

What can I say, it just works with the cheap HatchBox PLA 1.75 I buy off Amazon.  (Haven't tried the Silk varieties yet.) No need to do any modding here really, other than updating the firmware...  I did add a camera mount to one of the bed bolts, holding a C270.  I also have an ultrabase on order, I think some poor guy is rowing it across the Pacific as I write this.

Anyway, it's my first 3D printer and I got it mainly to print custom enclosures, panels for aluminum cases, etc.  But it has also been quite practical for other uses like instrument replacement feet, a case for the rpi, camera mount and some other odds and ends.  Created and printed a replacement knob for our clothes dryer that broke a few years back. (Just the plastic knob broke.) No problems at all so far.  Works fine as is, at least for my needs.  Couldn't be happier with it - love the thing to death!

Edit: I forgot to mention another important setup step with the dual Z motors: checked the X beam (Z gantry I think it's technically called) with a right angle and manually raised the lower side by rotating its drive rod to level it so it's as equally perpendicular to the verticals on both ends as possible.  This is how I discovered it's slightly (about 0.050mm) bowed up in the middle.  Enough to make adhesion in the center a problem with only corner leveling.  Height doesn't matter at this point, only that it's level and as perpendicular to both verticals as possible so it can move smoothly.

[Jan Audio]

I got my own printer now,
weird thing is the bed leveling is not assembled.
All build videos have it installed.
Weird, got some springs and knobs and nothing in the manual or youtube.

[sn4k3]

I got my own printer now,
weird thing is the bed leveling is not assembled.
All build videos have it installed.
Weird, got some springs and knobs and nothing in the manual or youtube.

If ender3 there are some videos that show instalation and leveling.
In manual there is a section how to leveling and also the build instructions, they are clear

[Jan Audio]

Yes its very easy, i also have another difference :
The PSU screw holes have to be on the right side of the beam else the bed hits the PSU.