So was there a definate answer about trapezoid vs square. I been looking at Hex ones too, but cannot figure out why so many choices.
In terms of current, it doesn't matter so long as they conform to DIN spec.
Where the shape matters, will depend on the wire insertion type & shape of the device they're inserted into. For example, if you've flat parallel jaws that use a set screw to clamp the terminated wire, either the square or trapezoidal are sufficient. If it's a couple of V shaped spring or screw contacts however, then hexagonal is the appropriate terminal, as there's more surface for the spring contacts to "bite" into for proper current transmission.
Mind you the only time i use crimpers is on the car, and my mates use ebay knock offs. PIDG is different how?
- Nylon insulation is resistant to hydrocarbons (greases, oils, etc.) and has high dielectric strength
- Copper sleeve between insulation and terminal body provides excellent wire support after crimping
- Funneled wire entry on terminal prevents turned back wire strands and permits rapid wire insertion during high speed production
- Product is rated for use up to 105 degrees C and 300 Volts
- Serrations in the crimp barrel provide maximum contact and tensile strength after crimping
The cheaper alternatives use vinyl as the insulation material, which isn't as resistive to chemicals, can't take as much heat (rated for 90C), and don't have the metal funnel that's crimped on the wire's insulation (they do make vinyl with the funnel & serrations, but they're priced almost identically to the PIDG or equivalents). None of them however, including PIDG, are sealed, so can easily corrode in automotive and marine applications. They're designed for fixed wiring installations in non-corrosive environments (i.e. inside an indoor metal panel or LV control systems).
For automotive and marine applications, you want to use either a heat shrink terminal or DIY one out of a non-insulated terminal + adhesive lined heat shrink (bit more effort cutting & fitting the heatshrink, but it's less expensive
). FWIW, I use the latter method, and it works properly (has kept me from having to either buy a new tool or 2 sets of dies too
).
It's also very important to match the crimp to the cable size.
Sounds obvious but I couldn't see any mention of it.
I just put those little bootlace ferrules on with bull nose pliers.
Three gentle squeezes along the ferrule with the cutting edge.
FWIW, I've assumed everyone knows this in my case.
As per your method, that's not enough to cause the wire & terminal to
cold weld to one another (what happens in a proper crimp). All the strands & terminal literally becomes a single, contiguous piece of metal. Without this, you'll have a higher contact resistance, which can cause problems, including melted insulation if it's high enough.
Thanks nanofrog. Yes, R$ is BRL; the prices also struck me as being a bit low indeed. I remember using a Burndy branded crimp tool in a lab I worked, one of those big crimpers - yeah, it was very expensive and also very good.
That store is a reputable big chain around here though, so I wouldn't think they would sell anything counterfeit - but it could perhaps be a "B" line from Burndy for not so interesting markets such as Brazil?
Another theory is that due to the fact BRL went through a bit of a dive against USD in the past few months, this is old stock from when exchange rates were still ~2:1 and they haven't raised the price.
I think in the end I might just buy one and try my luck... if it turns out to be good I let you guys know 
Thanks!
I was thinking less counterfeit, and more of a consumer line (didn't see mention of it on their website, but I didn't dig either). So sort of like your idea of a "B" line for specific markets. FWIW, I know stuff in Brazil is expensive from PM's with another member that resides there, so I'd still expect a higher price when the exchange rate was ~2:1 (a COO of Sweden can be seen on some photos of their hand operated ratcheting crimpers).
As per the Chinese made clones (patent on that style is expired), they vary wildly from works properly as-is, to needs adjustment to get it into spec, and cannot be adjusted into spec no matter how hard you try. QC varies that much IME.
Hopefully you'll get a good one.
I'd recommend getting a spec sheet (may have to email for it) for the terminals you decide to use. Then measure and perform pull-out tests to make sure it's in spec before making crimps on any service or control wiring (real job).
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