Again, many thanks to all. I appreciate that (at least so far) the posts have not veered too far into flame-war territory. (Only a bit warm from time to time.
)
To further unpack my limited understanding of my needs: I'm not sure if I made it clear that I am operating on a pretty low-level hobby basis. My knowledge of electronics is entirely self-taught, often by trial-and-error as I cobble together a circuit.
Here is a specific example, if you are bored and in need of a good laugh at my feeble efforts.
My most recent (and still current) project is a replacement for the controller in a "touchless trash can" - specifically an older version of this model:
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-18-gal-automatic-trash-can-with-recycle-and-waste-divider-stainless-steel/6409629.p?skuId=6409629. No, I am not shilling for them; keep in mind that I am making a new controller because the old one
died, and while it was very convenient when it was working, it is way too expensive to throw the whole thing away over the failure of $5 worth of electronics - not exactly a ringing endorsement of the product!
I designed a replacement circuit built around an ATTiny84 and an SR602 IR motion sensor. I worked up a PCB design and ordered it from one of the usual suspects - they did a nice job, and I populated it with no trouble. And re-populated it. And did some more re-work, and some more, as I have debugged the design. The main bug was using the wrong footprint for the SOT23 transistors (!!!), but fortunately I am able to turn them upside down to fix that issue. It took several tries to settle on a suitable resistor value to drive the transistors. Did I mention trial-and-error? I kinda, sorta know what I am doing, but especially with anything analog, I generally am partly guessing on the values to use. I'm at the point where I am about ready to send off a revised PCB design - I can almost fudge the first prototype into doing everything I need it to, but I have realized that I really need to reverse the polarity on the switches so that they are normally low rather than normally high - or at least, I think I need to do that in order further to reduce power consumption. The new design will let me jumper-select which polarity to use, so I can try it both ways.
So where might a scope come into play for this example? The lid has a spring on it which allows a relatively low-power gear-reduction motor to open it and close it. To determine how long to apply the motor, there is a sensor wheel that interrupts an led-and-photosensor as the motor spins. The trick is to get the right count of pulses to represent the motion upwards or downwards. With my old Tektronix, I could get a nice square wave off the sensor when the motor was disconnected from the lid - power up the motor and get a continuous pulse train. That let me know the
timing I was working with for the pulse train, but it did nothing to help me know
how many pulses to count when powering the motor up or down. That's where I was really wishing for a DSO, so that I could manually lift the lid and see how many pulses were generated.
Or at least, I am thinking that a DSO would have helped me do this. Again, I've never used one, so I don't know if my expectations for what it can do are accurate! In the end, I have trial-and-errored until I found a suitable count to use.
Note again that more sophisticated things, such as FFT's and Bode plots and function/waveform generators and logic analyzers, are not even on the horizon for what I have done on this project. I do more-or-less understand what an FFT is, but I don't know of any reason I would need it for this sort of project - though if there is a way that it would be helpful, I definitely want to learn! Meanwhile, I do not know what a Bode plot is, so have absolutely zero clue whether or how it could have been helpful in this example. As several have mentioned above, it is highly unlikely that I will ever spend the considerable extra to add the logic analyzer or waveform generator to any DSO I buy, so for me that potential advantage of the Siglent SDS804 is moot. Of course, if someone wants to give me a fully equipped multi-signal capable scope, I won't turn it down ...
I with I could take the advice to buy both scopes and then return one. Three major problems with that approach are 1) convincing my spouse; 2) finding enough time in the first 30 days to do the testing / comparison; and 3) convincing my spouse.
If you have read all the way to the bottom of this post, you deserve an award!