Apologies for multi-post, Re: this I find my 5020 needs the 1k\$\Omega\$ single turn wirewound pot with axial pull switch used to set the current limit on 5020, 2005A, 2020B and so on.
EDIT 7/20/26: NEW POT DIDN'T WORK OUT. DPDT CONTACTS FUSED WHEN CHECKING CURRENT AT FULL OUTPUT.
Located a substitute 1k\$\Omega\$ pot with pull switch. My 'new' 5020 is back in action,
with all features intact (including "pull to set" current limit knob).
It was helpful to realize that there's no apparent reason (IMO) to have specified a 2 watt wirewound pot for R41. I don't know why they did, curious to hear any theories. From the schematic (which, of course, I had to redraw; attached), the pot carries at most half a milliamp, dissipates a quarter milliwatt, and doesn't particularly benefit from linearity, precision, or thermal stability.
Broadening the search parameter space turned up an odd cache of Spanish linear-taper, quarter watt 1k carbon pots with integral 2A DPDT push-pull switches. The seller "
electropartsgalore" didn't have any docs, and they came unpackaged and unmarked; but visually, they appear to match Piher (now part of Amphenol)
T-21 series.
The 2A switch contact rating is marginal (it sees 2.1A), but it's a DPDT, so I just paralleled the sections. However the shaft and bushing are metric. Boosting the 6mm shaft to the 1/4" PD knob just took a rolled piece of .007" shim stock. But I didn't like the idea of wallowing out the 3/8" panel hole for a Euro 10mm bushing. Felt like defacing a sacred relic.
OTOH 3/8" is darn close to the nominal M10x0.75 thread root diameter; so I compromised. Without redrilling, I just ran an M10x0.75 tap through the hole, then screwed the pot's bushing through from the inside. Washers and jam nuts on both sides allowed clocking the terminals to suit wiring. The panel ID remains 3/8", should anyone want to fit an OEM pot in future (presuming they first figure out that this alien pot is threaded in...).
I still have no good theory for what happened to the original R41, or to the fried current control amplifier U1B.
At the point R41 gave out, I was setting up to chase what appeared to be 3mV of ripple on the output; the pot blew before I got to the bottom of it, but whatever it was it's gone now. Maybe I had a ground loop or something. Now I measure less than 20 \$\mu\$VRMS and 100 \$\mu\$Vpp ripple on top of 20VDC output with 1A load. The FFT shows 3.5 \$\mu\$VRMS at 60Hz, 1/10th that at 180 Hz, and nothing measurable at 120. You need some A-list grounding and shielding to make a battery look that clean in my lab.
Also as mentioned in the "
repair" post, this unit has a really nice resistor set; against a known good Agilent 34401A, output stays within \$\pm\$100ppm of dial setting from 5V to 50V (10x better than spec). This one's a keeper.
One peculiarity: the 10mV vernier seems kind of nonlinear. Around 60-80% (nominally adding 6-8 mV to output) it's out by almost 0.6 mV, if calibrated dead nuts at zero and 10. I wonder if that 10\$\Omega\$ 10-turn helipot is bad? And down another rabbit hole we go....
Zike
PS eBay seller above messaged me that as of early July 2026, they have at least 150 more of those Spanish pots.