I will reply others later.
This is for HIOKI.
Accuracy
DT4252 and DT4253 -> 30/-/5
DT4256 -> 30/-/3
4252 600mV 20/-/5
4253 600mV 50/-/5
This is the images for accuracy.
LoZ
TY720 has it. Other TY710, TY530, TY520 don't.
Again, no LoZ on TY720. Read the manual.
This is the manual.
That's not a loZ function, as used to cancel false readings due to ghost voltage presence (capacitive coupling)
Read up on ghost voltage if you don't know what it is. (No 3 on the first post of this thread)
UL listing for 530 and 520 is now correct (2016)
The document I referred to was from Dec 2011.
This is for HIOKI.
Accuracy
DT4252 and DT4253 -> 30/-/5
DT4256 -> 30/-/3
4252 600mV 20/-/5
4253 600mV 50/-/5
This is the images for accuracy.
The Hioki 4252 has a special high accuracy 600mV DC range, 0.2%+5.
You are correct, the TY710 doesn't come with VFD. The other meters do. All the meters have port blanking. The spreadsheet will be corrected later.
Pretty certain that is just a rebadge of the Picotest M3500A, just with a different color scheme
Yes indeed, it is the same.
Im sorry, I was not aware of the Picotest M3500A.
And the Picotest M3500A look´s like the Keithley 2100
Curious question, are the Firmware Update´s from the other Unit´s usable with my Unit ?
Pretty certain that is just a rebadge of the Picotest M3500A, just with a different color scheme
Yes indeed, it is the same.
Im sorry, I was not aware of the Picotest M3500A.
And the Picotest M3500A look´s like the Keithley 2100
Curious question, are the Firmware Update´s from the other Unit´s usable with my Unit ?
The Keithley 2100 is also a M3500A rebadge, as you noticed.
I have no clue on the firmware to be honest. It would be a crap shoot and you risk bricking your meter.
Wytnucls, one detail regarding battery life on Fluke's 175/177/179: in both manuals I have (an original from my 179 and a copy I downloaded from their website), I see it listed as being 400 hours. Perhaps you have a different source?
I am narrowing down your multimeter list to purchase a new one soon and was looking at the Brymen BM857. In column H (uA, best DC current resolution) it says 10nA but instead either green, white, yellow, or red for high, average, low or danger, it is a tan color that looks like it was maybe missing feature. However the tan color isn't the same as with your legend so figured it meant something else. What does that color mean in your table?
Not tan, but light green, to differentiate from meters with a 1nA resolution (full green).
Use MS Excel viewer to pick up the right colors.
Thank you for this! I'm in the process of researching the purchase of my first DMM and was only aware of a few brands, and a few models for each of those brands. This spreadsheet blew my mind as well as opened my eyes!
Family picture of all TRMS 6000+ count multimeters (new and old) :
I can't open the new file, it says it's been encrypted with an encoding that's not available in my country. Am I the only one? I was able to open the previous ones.
EDIT: Just open it in Google Spreadsheet.
Hey, thanks for this resource, the spreadsheet is great. I saw the how to choose a DMM link at the top but I personally would find a simpler more concise table easier and more helpful. I am looking for a multimeter for some beginner electronics work and some basic home mains wiring. So if there was somewhere linked with your master spreadsheet that said for electronics you would recommend a meter this accurate or with at least this DC current resolution. And home wiring you should look for DMMs with these values.
Can you recommend some values from your table you think would be the most important to have for basic electronics and some home mains (120 V) work?
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
If you don't know what to buy, get the EEVBlog Brymen 235. Safe, useful and priced right.
Here's a correction: I just found out that the backlight on the Fluke 87V does NOT turn off automatically! How awesome is that? I get to decide when the backlight turns off! I didn't even know such a meter existed!