Siglent SDL1000X/SDL1000X-E Electronic Load

[BillyO]

Contact NA and seek advice.
As Nico says it could be a ribbon cable contact issue but FWIW the last section to the display is a mylar flat cable with embedded components which if faulty will require display replacement.

I've reached out to my "local" Canadian retailer .. awaiting response.

[Martin72]

For anyone wanting to buy a Siglent DC Load and use the measurement outputs on the back, these measurement outputs almost are unusable.
I have heard through word of mouth that Siglent themselves are not happy about this either.
I therefore sent the Siglent DC Load back.

Hi,

Hm-hm...
I can see two BNC jacks on the back, called I-Monitor and V-Monitor.
Usually you measure the voltage directly on the source, not on the sink.
I-Monitor could mean a voltage output across an internal shunt, very low values are expected and therefore a relative noisy signal.
All in all it won´t bother me, I would measure voltage/current in a different way.

[nctnico]

Typically the I-monitor comes from the current shunt amplifier that provides a 0-10V output to represent the range of the DC-load. So this isn't a low-level signal. V-monitor the same; measured from the sense wires if you are using these. V-monitor is likely to be scaled down to a 0-10V level as well to allow easy interfacing to an analog signal acquisition system. Either way these signals should have a good enough accuracy. Just don't expect them to be floating in respect to the DUT.

[Johnny B Good]

 JOOI, I checked the SDL1000X user guide and I can confirm that that is exactly the case (0-10v analogue output for both I and V monitor outputs).

 I have to admit that I've never tried using the monitor outputs on mine.

[BillyO]

Contact NA and seek advice.
As Nico says it could be a ribbon cable contact issue but FWIW the last section to the display is a mylar flat cable with embedded components which if faulty will require display replacement.

I've reached out to my "local" Canadian retailer .. awaiting response.

Just an update on this.  My "local" retailer is RCC Electronics.  They are sending me a new unit with a return shipping label for the faulty one.  Great service!!  If you're in Canada, they are the choice for Siglent equipment.

[Mortymore]

The I/V BNC monitor outputs range from 0 to 10V and that poses some challenge to get meaningful numbers, since my scope only allows to set attenuation steps of 1, 2 and 5.



Test conditions:  PSU SPD3303X-E output timed steps / LOAD SDL1020X-E set to CC 1A (I:5A, V:36V)                  



Oscilloscope IDS-2074E                                  
CH1 (yellow): set to current probe, 0.5X attenuation, measuring current                                 
CH2 (cyan): set to voltage probe, 1X attenuation, measuring voltage but 3.6x lower                                 
Math (red): Measuring Power with function CH2*3.6*CH1 (CH1 Measured directly with factor 0.5x already corrected from CH1 input attenuation, but the ratio for CH2 had to corrected to 3.6x in the math channel)                                 
                                 


If the scope had an attenuation input that could be freely set by user, it would be just a matter of setting the needed ratio. Then the CH2 in the example would reflect the real voltage and the Math channel would just multiply CH1*CH2 to calculate Power (given it's purely resistive)

EDIT: For a photo, check a previous post with a similar setup, but there the source was a SLA battery instead of the PSU used here   

[Johnny B Good]

 Just 18 days ago, I posted that I'd ordered a set of 4mm banana socketed binding post nuts from :-

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005474135340.html

 The package turned up this morning, a mere 18 days later (about a month ahead of their delivery schedule!). Unfortunately, the items didn't entirely match the given description so I've had to request a refund/return from the seller.

 The problem being that just like all other sellers' photographs and the brief descriptions of "M6*60 binding post 6mm pure copper flat cap terminal 4mm hole banana socket", these had a hidden 'extra', namely that whilst  the external binding post studs (and their coloured nuts)'s threads were M6 the thread pitch was 0.75mm (fine threaded) making them useless as replacement banana jack adapter nuts.

Unfortunately, there aren't any sellers on Ebay selling any variety of these "M6*60 binding post 6mm pure copper flat cap terminal 4mm hole banana socket" kits, leaving me no choice but AliExpress if I want to avoid being 'scalped'. So once more it was another deep dive into AliExpress's web site to try and track down another seller that could offer some clue that their versions complied in full with the description "M6*60 binding post 6mm pure copper flat cap terminal 4mm hole banana socket" with no hidden (and unwanted) extras like "6mm fine threaded binding post nuts".

 After a surprisingly short search, I chanced upon this seller;-

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32793961677.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.1b601802PhPHdo

 which revealed in a short video (incompatible with Opera but firing up my despicable Firefox excuse for a web browser overcame that obstacle) that the threads at both ends were quite obviously the standard M6 1mm pitch thread That was another seller whose page I now can't relocate. I guess it must have this image (last attachment) which prompted me to buy from this seller. Better yet, they were even cheaper (￡1.05 each +VAT). I ordered a couple (red and black) for a total delivered price of just ￡4.83 (£1.80 less than I'd paid for the first lot).

 The take away from my experience with AliEpress sellers and these "M6*60 binding post 6mm pure copper flat cap terminal 4mm hole banana socket" kits for anyone contemplating the "4mm banana socket upgrade option" is that you need to ensure that what you see as a 'tried and tested solution' isn't hiding the presence of a 6M fine threaded stud binding post terminal. It would seem that your best chance of seeing a more revealing view lies in any movie clips the seller may be offering.

 And, BTW, has anyone managed to discover the actual OTP trip temperature on these SDL1000X electronic loads yet?





 

[BillyO]

I got mine from these guys: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000179697145.html

They worked like a charm.

[Johnny B Good]

Thanks Bill,

 If I hit the same issue with this second lot, the link you posted should make it "Third time lucky" 

[BillyO]

Hope you get the right ones this time:

Here is a picture of mine.  They have the same thread on both ends and it fits the Siglent.

[Johnny B Good]

Thanks once again Bill,

 I wish these sellers would provide similar quality photos of the stripped down assemblies. Looking at the seller's image I downloaded, it's not quite as clear cut as it seemed when I had it re-scaled in my web browser to directly compare against the ones I'd received from the first seller. However, at the time when I was trying to judge whether to take another chance, it didn't look like there was any mismatch in thread pitch. The lower price obviously tipped my decision in favour of making the purchase.

 BTW, I received verification of a successful refund from AliPay, confirmed by PayPal just after half past 7 this evening. All in all, a remarkably painless experience. I've not been asked to return the parts so presumably the economics of handling a return at their cost is way more than its resale value. In my experience, this is typical of Ebay and AliExpress on relatively low value goods.

 Delivery date on this second order is 3rd November so it'll be another two weeks or so before I'll be able to report the outcome.

[mawyatt]

These terminals look interesting, we are using lugs (banana plugs into open end of lug) but these are a better solution. Are these a direct fit and just require soldering in place, and are they capable of handling 30 amps without heating up?

Best,

[Johnny B Good]

 Are you referring to these? (see attached).

 I assume you meant to attach a photograph of these. When I first saw them, I wasn't quite sure whether they'd been purpose made as 4mm banana plug to spade adapters or simply a case of serendipity where, just by chance, they could be used as such (with little to no modification with a pair of bull nose pliers). To my mind, it had looked like the latter case. 

 After posting my response (but of course, only after posting ), I realised I'd misinterpreted your question. The answer to which is that we're simply replacing the original binding nuts with the ones taken from those "M6*60 binding post 6mm pure copper flat cap terminal 4mm hole banana socket" kits. No soldering involved, just a simple (and reversible) swap out, assuming you don't get lumbered with the type I'd gotten a refund on because the actual binding post end was M6 fine rather than the expected M6 (standard thread) through and through.

[mawyatt]

Are you referring to these? (see attached).

 I assume you meant to attach a photograph of these. When I first saw them, I wasn't quite sure whether they'd been purpose made as 4mm banana plug to spade adapters or simply a case of serendipity where, just by chance, they could be used as such (with little to no modification with a pair of bull nose pliers). To my mind, it had looked like the latter case. 

Yes those are the lugs. The banana plugs into the open end without any modifications. Works with most banana plugs we have, some types fit better than others tho. We've run 30 amps thru these lugs without issue, but consider the proper jacks a better overall solution if they are a good fit replacement without reworking the E-Load.

Best,

[BillyO]

We've run 30 amps thru these lugs without issue, but consider the proper jacks a better overall solution if they are a good fit replacement without reworking the E-Load.

The knobs and washers off the "new" posts are just threaded onto the Siglent binding posts after the original equipment knobs are removed.  The whole process takes only 15 or 20 seconds and not tools are required.  There are no modifications required other than swapping out the knobs.

[Johnny B Good]

 Thanks for settling the matter in regard of my answering the wrong question.

 Hopefully, my edited version has provided the answer to the actual question you had been asking.

 Your nicely pragmatic solution is a neat way to solve the problem using the bits you already have to hand. Some might regard it as 'a bit of a bodge' but to my mind, its more a case of 'inventive lateral thinking'.

 I've tried similar repurposing of these lugs (as I'm pretty sure most eevblog members will also have done) but with rather mixed results, mainly it has to be said, because the lugs I'd used were not as good a quality as yours.

 I suspect others have hit the same problem and would have needed to spend time and money to acquire a stock of decent quality lugs to emulate your solution, hence the interest in spending the time and money instead on these 6M binding post kits just for the 4mm banana socket adapter lug nuts.

 My post about my experience in purchasing a set of these M6 binding posts had been to provide a "Heads up" for anyone else contemplating this 4mm banana socket adapter exercise over the risk of landing up with M6 fine threaded binding post nuts which don't fit on the SDL 1000X terminal binding posts.

 BTW, I fully understand Siglent's decision not to curse these electronic loads with 4mm banana jacks since apart from the complaints about the lack of high current rated binding posts, this could also lead to a higher rate of expensive shorting out accidents with power supplies and battery packs. Far better for Siglent to leave the choice of potentially unsafe connections entirely in the hands of their customers than to be seen to be encouraging such misuse of banana plug ended test leads.

 A better solution to arranging a more convenient connection IMHO, would be a pair of 4mm banana jack plugs attached via a couple of 3 or 4 inch 10 gauge flexible lug ended fly leads  and use test leads terminated with solderable in line banana sockets. Basically the same connection method you'd use to test wallwarts with co-axial dc plug ended flyleads.

[Mortymore]

Johnny B Good

This...

...
The knobs and washers off the "new" posts are just threaded onto the Siglent binding posts after the original equipment knobs are removed. 
...

... is what I believe most of us have been doing with those banana posts adapters.

Just unscrew the exiting knobs from Siglent, and from the new ones, insert a washer and screw the new knobs with the banana inserts.
One washer is needed because without it the new knob will not be properly tighten. "Disregard" the remaining parts.

This method will fit the purpose, and there's no need for any real mod of the Load.
It can be easily undone and the original knobs refited if a beefier cable with proper terminals is to be used, instead of banana plugs.

[mawyatt]

Thanks all, we'll likely order these next time we order something.

Nice to know no mods are required to E Load!!

Mike

[Veteran68]

Making a Banana Jack Adapter for Siglent Electronic Loads
by Clough42

This is the approach I've taken, as it seems like best of both worlds having both types of connections in place. Got Clough42's PCB and the Pomona banana jacks from DigiKey, just haven't assembled it yet. A project for the weekend maybe, if I don't get to it sooner.

Nice to know there's a simple mod with replacing the knobs with banana jack sockets if I need a backup solution.

[Johnny B Good]

 I have to agree with colorado.rob's assessment on this one https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/siglent-sdl1000xsdl1000x-e-electronic-load/msg5078467/#msg5078467

 However, I don't agree with his suggested alternative solution https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R2KJ88S?th=1 since neither of these solutions offers any more safety regarding the risk of shorting out of the DUT (particularly when the DUT happens to be an unprotected LiPo battery pack) than the 4mm banana socket adapter M6 binding post nuts which at least have the charm of being a neater and far cheaper again option than those audiophool priced spade tag to 4mm banana socket adapters.

 I guess anyone familiar with such LiPo battery packs would be well aware of the risks associated with them and always remember to disconnect at the battery pack end first before pulling the banana plugs out at the electronic load end (and likewise switch off an expensive mains powered PSU or shut off the bench supply feeding a dc-dc converter module), making the shorting out risk of the banana plugs a more acceptable one.

 The other useful feature of a banana plug connection as far as anyone testing LiPo battery packs is concerned being that they provide a method of swift disconnection to allow a flaming LiPo in its fire-bucket of sand to be swiftly ejected off the premises without having to sacrifice the electronic load as well (although keeping a suitable pair of side cutters to hand would serve just as well with the standard spade tag connection).

 There might have been some merit in that fancy adapter if it had used banana plugs instead of sockets so that the test leads could be terminated with in-line female banana sockets instead to eliminate the risk of an accidental short on the output from the DUT.

 If you're happy to accept the shorting out risk, the swap out of the binding post nuts with the 4mm banana socketed binding post nuts supplied with these M6 binding post kits represents the neatest and cheapest solution IMO.

[Johnny B Good]

Hope you get the right ones this time:

Here is a picture of mine.  They have the same thread on both ends and it fits the Siglent.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=166657.0;attach=1903143;image

 I just thought I'd let you (and anyone else reading this topic) know that those M6 binding post kits arrived this morning (just ten days after placing my order - even swifter than the first lot!) and they're the spitting image of the one you'd posted.

 As far as can tell, mine appear to have come from the same factory. They're a good fit on the SDL 1000 binding posts allowing firm contact with the thinnest of spade tags (or even 0.2mm wire) without packing washers. I checked the depth of the binding nuts against the Siglent's binding post length which proved to be about half a millimeter shy of bottoming out. You only need to make use of the washers to allow full penetration of the banana plug (and even without, you still get a good firm contact anyway - the resulting 2mm gap is really more a matter of how it looks).

 The nice thing I did notice about these binding nuts is that their slightly smaller diameter makes it noticeably easier to spin them on and off with the flats offering a better grip to tighten them up or slacken them off. Overall, a useful upgrade over the original binding nuts.

P.S. To save anyone having to search the topic thread, here's a link to the seller I'd bought mine from :-

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32793961677.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.1b601802PhPHdo

[Bad_Driver]

I got today the suggested binding posts. They came unfortunately on the slow boat from China. It took some weeks….
But they fit perfect, thanks for the advice!
Since I used the fork like 4 mm binding posts Johnny has shown on the photo  (and I will use them further) no additional washer is needed.

[Johnny B Good]

 Spacing washers are not actually needed unless you're stressed out by their "not fully inserted" appearance.

 Those binding post nuts are designed to allow banana jacks to be fully inserted even when you leave substantially heavy duty cable lugs attached to the binding posts. On closer scrutiny, banana jacks will fully engage the socket with another 4 or 5 mm to spare before they bottom out and It's quite obvious (now!) as to why they'd been designed that way.  That look of not being fully inserted when no spacing washers are fitted isn't a bug, it's a design feature!

[Mortymore]

Turned on my SDL1020X-E.  It looked fine when it booted.  The I went to get a cup of coffee .. maybe 3 minutes later this is what I now have:



It has suddenly got all these white horizontal lines on the display.  Turning it off and letting it cool down overnight did not do any good.  Leaving it on overnight to fully warm up did not do any good.

Is this something that can be fixed with a little adjustment or is this a return to Siglent thing?

My 6 month old Load is starting to look like this one.
Is this a known display problem?

[GnomeZA]

My 6 month old Load is starting to look like this one.
Is this a known display problem?

I have one that is quite a number of years old now and don't have any problems.  You both have quite new meters, I would 100% do a warranty return on, 6 months is nothing, must be some new part they are using on the newer models that are sub-standard (my opinion ofc).