Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[beanflying]

Any idea what temp to start at?

mnem
*Thinking about Columbia's third largest export*

With a first go with the Popper go cold and see how long it takes. Typically that have an issue with being to fast as a roaster. Up the volume a little if it is off a cart. Also possibly add a tin can chimney to stop the beans escaping.

If you want to have a decent go Sweet Marias in the USA will save you some leg work looking for Green https://www.sweetmarias.com/green-coffee.html?sm_status=1&sm_type=77

[tautech]

Do I or don't I ? 

   @ nearly $2/MHz I'm thinking about it for old times sake.     Would I ever use it, probably not........shit I sold off all this old stuff years ago ! 

If you're going to do such a damn-fool thing (we're all damned fools here ), that does seem like a prime-condition example of the breed.

Looks like the timebase knob is even intact; and from what I've seen, that alone makes it a good find.

Yes one this looks very straight and in the listing there's a full set of pics, closeups and from every angle.

Not only that, the CRT looks to be a nice size, which makes it a good candidate for use as an X-Y display for an octopus. The small footprint of the vertical enclosure is a bench-top bonus compared to horizontal scopes.

Actually they're better than that bitseeker, the last of the Telequipment's where when Tek acquired them and these D83's used Tek CRT's, from the 7000 series I think. bd139 will correct me if I got that wrong. When they are right, the fine and sharp trace on this is a thing of beauty, I've yet to use anything better.

They're a damn fine CRO, quite good to work on too and I still have the plugin extender cable I made when I last had one. Their main weakness is their EHT just like most CRO's that were pushing the limit of what was possible back then.

Someone saved me from myself TEA and hit the Buy Now a day before it finished. 
Almost had a spare spot above the bench sorted for it too. 

[mnementh]

Any idea what temp to start at?

mnem
*Thinking about Columbia's third largest export*

With a first go with the Popper go cold and see how long it takes. Typically that have an issue with being to fast as a roaster. Up the volume a little if it is off a cart. Also possibly add a tin can chimney to stop the beans escaping.

If you want to have a decent go Sweet Marias in the USA will save you some leg work looking for Green https://www.sweetmarias.com/green-coffee.html?sm_status=1&sm_type=77

Well, no... it's not an air popper, it's an old-fashioned heated pot oil/kernel popper. As the popcorn pops, the agitator pushes the popcorn out of the pot into the cart. Obviously not going to want to use oil in it, but the agitator tends to keep the kernels swirling around in the sweet spot until they pop, so I expect behavior will be similar with coffee beans.  Just that I have no idea what temp I'd want to start at with such a device.

Any idea how high the old-timers who did 'em in a skillet ran their heat?

mnem
*Reached third crack a few years ago*

[beanflying]

Skillet or Pan Roasting needs care or you scorch the outside of the beans as they are in contact with that pan unless you stir really well. KK's Pan Roasting is under my original posts the PDF is based on. https://coffeeforum.org.au/roasting-how-to-do-it/the-absolute-beginners-guide-to-roasting-coffee-using-minimal-equipment/msg19596/#msg19596 Sweet Marias still sell these Stovetop Roaster for interest https://www.sweetmarias.com/roasting/stovetop/stovepop-stainless-steel.html

What you could try is a preheat cycle so run it up to say 100C then add the beans in. My Drum Roasters get preheated to 160-190C (depending on the bean or roast use) before dropping the Beans in but I have full control over Airflow and Power from there. The sort of curve you are looking for is the lower one here in Red I was following the faint former roast trace with. So drop in at about 190 the TC then in the beans follows the bean mass temperature on up. 10-12C/ minute for the first 11-12 minutes then backing off the power adding air and 3-4C/minute for the rest of the roast.

[bitseeker]

Whuf... and that's why I don't like making videos; I'm so scattered most of the time I sound like a total tool. I either have to shoot a dozen takes, or I keep going back to revisit something I forgot like this guy does; only like 10 times worse. 
...
The guy really thought himself into a corner rather than properly leveraging what he already had, IMHO.

And that's why I rarely watch yootoob videos!

I suspect, without having spent an hour and a quarter of my remaining life watching it, that the information in it could have been conveyed in 10 minutes - or 2 minutes if I had been able to read a blog.

Cranking up the playback speed to 1.5x or 2.0x and judicious use of the J and L keys can help reduce the time commitment quite a lot.

Great... so now I can not only sound like a tool, I can sound like a chipmunk-tool as well...? 

LOL, nah. It's properly pitch-shifted to avoid chipmunkness.

[Brumby]

In addition to his generosity, Bean has a decidedly mischievous streak.

Upon opening the Big Boys Toys box, I was immediately greeted by a mini quadcopter, complete with controller, USB charger and some spare parts ... all charged up and ready to fly.  (Don't ask how I know  )

Next was the OCXO with 4 way splitter - most generous and greatly appreciated.  This will will be housed and become part of my setup - with a view for a PLL enhancement at some point.  Some homework required - which I am going to enjoy.

Next were two 3D printed cases: Bean's hermaphroditic 2 part case and a version of the jiffy box.  This "jiffy box" has machine screws and metal inserts for the lid as well as a piece of matrix board with screws to mount it on the stand-offs built into the case.  Both these 3D prints were excellent, IMHO - and have given me added interest in getting my own 3D printer.

Then I found 2 3-way terminal strips, a mini bit driver, a packet of plastic stand-offs and 4 stepper motors (which are going to win some of my attention).  As well there is an assortment of pin headers that I will add to my collection, which will now include some long pin and right-angled headers that I didn't have before.

At the bottom were a couple of RG58 cables (of which I can make good use) and a bag of connector goodness containing a variety of BNC connectors and adapters - including the N to BNC adapter I needed for proper connection to the 8656B output.  Cheering!

Then, in a corner at the bottom was a short piece of IC tube, with a 7404 (which I will try in the 5381), an LM358 (which is useful) and .... wait for it .... a 555 timer - which cracked me up!


All in all, I must thank you Bean.  A very generous box of goodies.  Not sure about the green bean challenge, though - but I might hit YouTube for some pointers...

Edit: Bean has given me a link!!  Bye for now.

[bitseeker]

Someone saved me from myself TEA and hit the Buy Now a day before it finished. 
Almost had a spare spot above the bench sorted for it too. 

There will be another... 

[bitseeker]

In addition to his generosity, Bean has a decidedly mischievous streak.

Upon opening the Big Boys Toys box...

Sounds like much joy to be had at Brumby's!

[worsthorse]

So I was sitting here, writing an "advice asking" post about my relative level of repair inexperience vs the 2216 sitting on my bench right now when I took a break to look at CL and I found this:


https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/ele/d/canby-tektronix-equipment/6836176599.html


The seller is asking $195 for the whole pile. He claims some of it actually still works. I don't know what I would do with any of it but I hate to see it go to the dump. Am I crazy?

[med6753]

In addition to his generosity, Bean has a decidedly mischievous streak.

Upon opening the Big Boys Toys box, I was immediately greeted by a mini quadcopter, complete with controller, USB charger and some spare parts ... all charged up and ready to fly.  (Don't ask how I know  )

Next was the OCXO with 4 way splitter - most generous and greatly appreciated.  This will will be housed and become part of my setup - with a view for a PLL enhancement at some point.  Some homework required - which I am going to enjoy.

Next were two 3D printed cases: Bean's hermaphroditic 2 part case and a version of the jiffy box.  This "jiffy box" has machine screws and metal inserts for the lid as well as a piece of matrix board with screws to mount it on the stand-offs built into the case.  Both these 3D prints were excellent, IMHO - and have given me added interest in getting my own 3D printer.

Then I found 2 3-way terminal strips, a mini bit driver, a packet of plastic stand-offs and 4 stepper motors (which are going to win some of my attention).  As well there is an assortment of pin headers that I will add to my collection, which will now include some long pin and right-angled headers that I didn't have before.

At the bottom were a couple of RG58 cables (of which I can make good use) and a bag of connector goodness containing a variety of BNC connectors and adapters - including the N to BNC adapter I needed for proper connection to the 8656B output.  Cheering!

Then, in a corner at the bottom was a short piece of IC tube, with a 7404 (which I will try in the 5381), an LM358 (which is useful) and .... wait for it .... a 555 timer - which cracked me up!


All in all, I must thank you Bean.  A very generous box of goodies.  Not sure about the green bean challenge, though - but I might hit YouTube for some pointers...

Edit: Bean has given me a link!!  Bye for now.

[med6753]

So I was sitting here, writing an "advice asking" post about my relative level of repair inexperience vs the 2216 sitting on my bench right now when I took a break to look at CL and I found this:


https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/ele/d/canby-tektronix-equipment/6836176599.html


The seller is asking $195 for the whole pile. He claims some of it actually still works. I don't know what I would do with any of it but I hate to see it go to the dump. Am I crazy?

Oh hell....BUY IT!  If it were close to me I would.

[beanflying]

In addition to his generosity, Bean has a decidedly mischievous streak.

...

All in all, I must thank you Bean.  A very generous box of goodies.  Not sure about the green bean challenge, though - but I might hit YouTube for some pointers...

Edit: Bean has given me a link!!  Bye for now.

Who Me? Welcome to a couple of my other addictions 

I needed to add a 555 to 'fill' the Tube, I brought 50 of them and 50 358's a while back for $0.10 each from memory. The first one I brought circa 40 years ago would have been over $1 and more like $2 back then from our local Tandy (RatShack) store.

The OCXO I brought two of a few years ago so I still have one I have pulled down and played with but I have moved on from needing to do anything serious with it. The rest apart from the RF is just a mix of 3D prototypes or earlier versions and stuff I have excess of you may not have but find useful. Enjoy the toys   

Oh and Photos or Video from the Drone needed

[Ero-Shan]

I’m not volt-nuttering, just comparing these old dudes. Actually I don’t know which one is accurate (if any), now I need better reference..

Now there's someone with taste! A Prema 5000, a Fluke 8040 and a Burster calibrator.
Premas have a reputation for staying in calibration for a long time. I wish mine were in the same spotless optical condition.
I always loved my Fluke 8040's at work, but never understood how someone could get away with locating the jack for the "battery eliminator" on the opposite side of the measurement inputs. This way you need an awful lot of space albeit the instrument itself being narrow. 
As I don't use batteries with mine, I've relegated power to the rear.
The Burster and Knick of that vintage have one big problem: the keys bounce like crazy. Apart from bad caps.

The Burster's accuracy is likely not better than 0.01 % (I only remember my Knick  JS 3010 at the moment), so the .9999 of the 8040 doesn't mean too much. The 2 "better" instruments are in close agreement, so that's where I would put my money.
But what do I know? All 4 instruments might conspire to fool you, and the real voltage is 0.31415926 Volts. 

Apologies for the late reply, still in ketchup mode ...

[bitseeker]

Ero-Shan's got a magic eye watching us, now.

[tautech]

Ero-Shan's got a magic eye watching us, now.

Sorting through a box of old tubes and stumbled on one I have.
Anyone want it for a project ?

[Ero-Shan]

@mnem: screw those huntron prices. You could get a better engineer for that much more cash.  BTW you got me started on STM32 now. After much googleage I found this: http://kevincuzner.com/2016/05/22/dev-boards-where-were-going-we-wont-need-dev-boards/ ... and they have 12 bit ADCs which solves a bit of a problem I have at the moment.

Don't expect too much from those ADCs. While I have no experience with STMs, I'm happy when I get 10 usable bits from my RX ADCs (they're also 12 bit). The lower bits are fine for gathering entropy, though. 

[bd139]

Oversample all the problems away 

I’ve got some 12 bit microchip ADCs which aren’t as noisy. I was going to use one of them before. I’ve looked at ST but I still can’t be arsed. I can do it with an AVR with virtually zero toolchain or further knowledge investment. AVR will talk to the ADC and go to sleep until the ADC is ready.

I’ve got 0.1dB resolution over a dynamic range of 70dB so 10 bits is probably fine TBH.

[bd139]

So I was sitting here, writing an "advice asking" post about my relative level of repair inexperience vs the 2216 sitting on my bench right now when I took a break to look at CL and I found this:


https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/ele/d/canby-tektronix-equipment/6836176599.html


The seller is asking $195 for the whole pile. He claims some of it actually still works. I don't know what I would do with any of it but I hate to see it go to the dump. Am I crazy?

Oh hell....BUY IT!  If it were close to me I would.

I’d buy that!

[neo]

Ero-Shan's got a magic eye watching us, now.

Sorting through a box of old tubes and stumbled on one I have.
Anyone want it for a project ?

Ordinarily i'd be tempted to say "ME!" but i'm too busy working on my novel or working myself half to death for profit.

[Brumby]

OK ... Pics....

[beanflying]

Forgotten what the figures are on those steppers they were last used on a CNC Foam cutter 8-10 years ago so they will handle a bit of load maybe Thin Nema 14 spec would maybe be in the ballpark?

Watch out for cobwebs with the Quad it loves them and maybe fit up the guards until you get it a bit more sorted for inside. 

Tonight's Modern Art

[Ero-Shan]

Ero-Shan's got a magic eye watching us, now.

Sorting through a box of old tubes and stumbled on one I have.
Anyone want it for a project ?

The only project I have with them is: collecting. I guess that doesn't count. 

[med6753]

As promised. The 2430 stripped naked. And I've already made a determination as to what is wrong.

Right side logic board. I haven't checked specifically what its function is.



Underside. Obviously the analog board.



Left side. Big arse 12VDC fan and the HV supply.



And finally...the top. Holy crap. This board swings up and away revealing the power supply sandwiched between this board and the analog board underneath. And that's where the trouble is. +5V, +15V, -15V, +8V, -8V all dead. The 12V fan does turn. So I have to get the power supply out. But later today. Got some domestic stuff I have to do first.

[mnementh]

Skillet or Pan Roasting needs care or you scorch the outside of the beans as they are in contact with that pan unless you stir really well. KK's Pan Roasting is under my original posts the PDF is based on. https://coffeeforum.org.au/roasting-how-to-do-it/the-absolute-beginners-guide-to-roasting-coffee-using-minimal-equipment/msg19596/#msg19596 Sweet Marias still sell these Stovetop Roaster for interest https://www.sweetmarias.com/roasting/stovetop/stovepop-stainless-steel.html

What you could try is a preheat cycle so run it up to say 100C then add the beans in. My Drum Roasters get preheated to 160-190C (depending on the bean or roast use) before dropping the Beans in but I have full control over Airflow and Power from there. The sort of curve you are looking for is the lower one here in Red I was following the faint former roast trace with. So drop in at about 190 the TC then in the beans follows the bean mass temperature on up. 10-12C/ minute for the first 11-12 minutes then backing off the power adding air and 3-4C/minute for the rest of the roast.

I think my mind just boggled. 

Maybe it's just too early, or that I'm just getting started on my first cuppa. 

Obviously the fact that they sell these stamped stainless poppers as roasters means my idea isn't a bad one. This thing has a motorized agitator, so stirring the beans should be taken care of. Just no idea if I can get a consistent temperature control loop with that heavy cast iron pot. I'll read your pdf after I wake up; we'll see if I'm up to the task. 

So I was sitting here, writing an "advice asking" post about my relative level of repair inexperience vs the 2216 sitting on my bench right now when I took a break to look at CL and I found this:

https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/ele/d/canby-tektronix-equipment/6836176599.html

The seller is asking $195 for the whole pile. He claims some of it actually still works. I don't know what I would do with any of it but I hate to see it go to the dump. Am I crazy?

The fact you're even LOOKING at that pile of hollow-state goodness means you're absolutely batshit crazy. Welcome to the asylum. 

Here's a thread to shove you over the edge give you some idea what to expect: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/vintage-tek-restoration-pictures-by-martin/

mnem
"Very helpful... very helpful indeed..." Chibila thought to himself.

[mnementh]

As promised. The 2430 stripped naked. And I've already made a determination as to what is wrong.

Right side logic board. I haven't checked specifically what its function is.



Underside. Obviously the analog board.



Left side. Big arse 12VDC fan and the HV supply.



And finally...the top. Holy crap. This board swings up and away revealing the power supply sandwiched between this board and the analog board underneath. And that's where the trouble is. +5V, +15V, -15V, +8V, -8V all dead. The 12V fan does turn. So I have to get the power supply out. But later today. Got some domestic stuff I have to do first.

Construction on that appears very similar in concept to the 2230. If so, the top board is the acquisition/memory board, and the one on the side will be raster/vector character generation. I've read that the 2230 will operate as an analog scope without the acquisition board ev3n in place.

If it's made like the 2230, that acquisition board will be on a hinge, and even has a plastic "prop rod" to hold it up so it doesn't slam shut while you're in there working. Look out for .0100" MOLEX and ribbon connectors that need to be unplugged before you can swing the board up; sometimes they aren't obvious. If you feel ANY resistance when trying to lift the board, look again.

Good hunting!

mnem