Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[bitseeker]

Yep, old doesn't necessarily mean no longer useful. The 8566 spec an, like the 3458 DMM and 478/8478 thermistor mount, have been around a long time and continue to be in use because they are the (or one of the) best at what they do for those who have use the appropriate use cases.

Note that with the 8566/8, it's best if you can get the display unit and cables, too. Even if they don't work, the ROI is better for the set.

[Ice-Tea]

Didn't think they were worth it. If I had known, I would have tried harder for the display unit. As it is, I think I made a few people happy with units for 250€. And some got two, as the first one turned out to be a dud.

[BU508A]

Hello,

as promised, here are some pictures of this nice Grundig UZ 56 universal counter.
But first I want to state, that there will be not shown any pale asses which are glowing in the dark.   

So, don't be afraid and go bravely ahead.   

This is the front, for comparison there is a Swiss Army knive (MacGyver version)


This is the left side with a rusty screw and some red gunk


This is the right side and for comparison one of the best pocket calculators ever made   


Backside with huge clunky switches. The left one is the power switch.


This is the top side with a quick reference guide


To open the case, only four screws must get out. That's very nice.
This is an overview of the top


The TTL circuits in more detail, I've spotted several date codes from 1974


The bodge!       


Gorillas at work, I think this has happend while assembling the bodge   


There is also some rust on the transformer


Detailed view (top) of the PSU. The caps needs definitly to be replaced.


Overview of the bottom side


Detailed view of some TTL circuits


And this makes me angry!    A bended frame because of a poor packaging.      
When I unpacked it I've thought, that this thing was poorly packed,
but I didn't notice at first this bending. Grrrr!


Again, with a scale for comparison


But, as a great relief, it works! And it is spot-on!        
I've fed in the 10MHz signal from my GPSDO. Not bad!



Hope you've enjoyed this little teardown.

The next one will be my Hameg (Rohde & Schwarz) DMM 8112-3, 6 1/2 digit DMM
Stay tuned.    

[EEngo]

soo nice, thanks for the teardown!
and +1 for the calculator! 

edit: typo.

[bd139]

Agree on both points 

[nixiefreqq]

enjoyed the uz 56 teardown very much.

except for pic #3. (it appears some kind of backward calculating device has fallen into the shot by accident.  maybe you can still edit it out?)

[bd139]

<——————— that’s fighting talk 

[Neomys Sapiens]

'A bended frame'?
Raise the alarm! BD139 has been replaced by a badly trained foreign agent!

[nixiefreqq]

nope.  no fight left in me.  have been in south central pa long enough to almost be Amish.

but my guess is that the Amish would disapprove of rpn calculators. (unless wind powered.)

[BU508A]

enjoyed the uz 56 teardown very much.

except for pic #3. (it appears some kind of backward calculating device has fallen into the shot by accident.  maybe you can still edit it out?)

Better?



 

[Specmaster]

nope.  no fight left in me.  have been in south central pa long enough to almost be Amish.

but my guess is that the Amish would disapprove of rpn calculators. (unless wind powered.)

I think you may be right, they'd think it was the devils work!

[GreyWoolfe]

Company provides phones and will not allow personal phones for company use under any circumstances.

Same here, same exact lifestyle, same exact solution. My phone in my front pocket, company iPwn in my butt pocket. If they can't be arsed to get me a OtterBox, they can replace it every other month.

Same here. They DO give the company phone a profile workout, such that most apps aren't trusted and many of my colleagues carry only the company phone, which we're free to use privately (all corporate plans here have unlimited domestic minutes and SMS, and we also have unlimited domestic data. Inside EU it is limited but generous, outside EU it is robber telco capitalism as usual (take that, you poor misguided people who wanted out of EU)) but I really do not want to have to use a comms device over which my employer has MDM power for traffic that are none of their business.

Our private plans (we've got a family plan for all 5 of us) has unlimited minutes and SMS as well, and 20GiB data per month per phone, in-country, and that's been more than enough. We've never even gotten close to hit the limits.

nmem, thankfully the company does provide an otterbox since iPwn, like laptop tends to be slightly abused.  Man, we can use our company phones for personal use, phone and text only.  That's unlimited but we don't have an unlimited data plan so we are only supposed to use data to tether our laptops when on site, we are not supposed to use data at home. Thankfully the cable internet is very, very reliable and haven't had to do so.  The company does have its' own version of the 'you lose it, we brick it' software plus everything else we need to do our jobs and, of course, we have to have the phones password protected and they prefer we use the phone's biometrics for log in.  They are also pretty lenient on downloads as long as it is useful and not inappropriate.  I choose not to use the phone for personal use.  I don't want to give out that number.  It's bad enough when I actually have to give one of my service sites the number.   The only family member that has it is Mrs GreyWoolfe and that is plan B if I don't answer my personal phone and she REALLY needs to reach me.

[bd139]

Found a poorly listed 6202B supply here for £59 in U.K. if anyone is interested. 0-40v 0-.75A

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193213358617

I would but I can’t at the moment. Plus it has wrong knobs.

[nixiefreqq]

enjoyed the uz 56 teardown very much.

except for pic #3. (it appears some kind of backward calculating device has fallen into the shot by accident.  maybe you can still edit it out?)

Better?



 

thank you!

[mnementh]

enjoyed the uz 56 teardown very much.

except for pic #3. (it appears some kind of backward calculating device has fallen into the shot by accident.  maybe you can still edit it out?)

<——————— that’s fighting talk 

Oh YEAAAAHHH?!? Well...      !!!!!

mnem
*mic drop* WHUMMMP!!!

[bitseeker]

Hello,

as promised, here are some pictures of this nice Grundig UZ 56 universal counter.

...

Hope you've enjoyed this little teardown.

I did and added it to the POI.

[mnementh]

         

For those who're interested in such things, I discovered this poor little aPF 4-banger on my first trip to the Thrift in months; it was all alone, neglected & unloved in a baggie on the wall for $2.99. It has those bubble LEDs where each segment is itself segmented into multiple chips; I've always loved these and the bubble LEDs with the rounded numbers that looked like this: .

Cleaning required was minimal; this one is in good shape and plastic has very little yellowing. And those classic hard plastic chiclet keys... the feel is delightful. 

I've included a bunch of pics of it nekkid while I was doing cleaning... enjoy.

mnem
*toddling off to ded*

[Ero-Shan]

How'd you do it?

While consolidating my components collections, I come across stuff on tapes frequently.



These need to be cut from the tape before going into the drawers. The problem is: What is the best way to do it? Side cutters are in no way up to the job. So I use my granddads scissors (he was a tailor; they're about 120 years old now), but often they get entangled. And with drying glue (or is it cement in this case?), after cutting off one side several fall out. In short: It's a mess!



The ends need to be cut in order to fit the resistors neatly inside the drawers and because the remains of the glue/cement make them sticky.

Does any of you know of a simple, working method that does not involve expensive machinery?

You shouldn't use tailor's shears on anything other than cloth. It dulls the edges. Borrowing a tailor's shears to cut paper is generally a good way of getting into a fight. 

The tailor died 105 years ago, I'm rather sure he'll not start a fight.
And that's the only job those shears still have to do. They should feel honoured!

[beanflying]

Translating Chinglish today. Breakover is a new double negative - non word for this purpose at least 

The second grab is part of a 70+ page 'manual' written in similar nonsensical Chinglish

[Specmaster]

How'd you do it?

While consolidating my components collections, I come across stuff on tapes frequently.



These need to be cut from the tape before going into the drawers. The problem is: What is the best way to do it? Side cutters are in no way up to the job. So I use my granddads scissors (he was a tailor; they're about 120 years old now), but often they get entangled. And with drying glue (or is it cement in this case?), after cutting off one side several fall out. In short: It's a mess!



The ends need to be cut in order to fit the resistors neatly inside the drawers and because the remains of the glue/cement make them sticky.

Does any of you know of a simple, working method that does not involve expensive machinery?

You shouldn't use tailor's shears on anything other than cloth. It dulls the edges. Borrowing a tailor's shears to cut paper is generally a good way of getting into a fight. 

The tailor died 105 years ago, I'm rather sure he'll not start a fight.
And that's the only job those shears still have to do. They should feel honoured!

Rest assured that he will in the afterlife 

[Mr. Scram]

How'd you do it?

While consolidating my components collections, I come across stuff on tapes frequently.



These need to be cut from the tape before going into the drawers. The problem is: What is the best way to do it? Side cutters are in no way up to the job. So I use my granddads scissors (he was a tailor; they're about 120 years old now), but often they get entangled. And with drying glue (or is it cement in this case?), after cutting off one side several fall out. In short: It's a mess!



The ends need to be cut in order to fit the resistors neatly inside the drawers and because the remains of the glue/cement make them sticky.

Does any of you know of a simple, working method that does not involve expensive machinery?

You shouldn't use tailor's shears on anything other than cloth. It dulls the edges. Borrowing a tailor's shears to cut paper is generally a good way of getting into a fight. 

The tailor died 105 years ago, I'm rather sure he'll not start a fight.
And that's the only job those shears still have to do. They should feel honoured!

I thought you might want to preserve such a piece of family history. 

[nixiefreqq]

         

For those who're interested in such things, I discovered this poor little aPF 4-banger on my first trip to the Thrift in months; it was all alone, neglected & unloved in a baggie on the wall for $2.99. It has those bubble LEDs where each segment is itself segmented into multiple chips; I've always loved these and the bubble LEDs with the rounded numbers that looked like this:

I've included a bunch of pics of it nekkid while I was doing cleaning... enjoy.

mnem
*toddling off to ded*

bubble leds and an = key.................beauty eh.

[Zucca]

Muppet: "Can you fix it?, I think it is a fuse blown. It just stopped to work..."

Me: "Let me see"



I should stop to fix stuff for free to my friends... they are getting above the pain in the ass limit...

[Ice-Tea]

Muppet: "Can you fix it?, I think it is a fuse blown. It just stopped to work..."

Me: "Let me see"

(Attachment Link)

I should stop to fix stuff for free to my friends... they are getting above the pain in the ass limit...

You should never has started

Also Parkside? Isn't that the Aldi brand? Not worth the connector.. Let alone your time.

[Brumby]

I should stop to fix stuff for free to my friends... they are getting above the pain in the ass limit...

You should never has started

Oh yeah.  The stories I could tell.  *correction*  We all could tell!