yeah, a lot of 240 volt 50 hz two prong video recorders and DVD players were/are good like that.
You get a nice tingle when moving them about in a cabinet if they are still plugged into the mains and or TV antenna cable
Once they are hooked up with other gear via RCA cords, no tingle, no problem,
even if all the gear is 2 prong powered
I assume all those combined 'floating' neutrals and chassis vote they are part of the Neutral/Earth/Ground link at the electrical switchboard, and settle down
If any one of a group of devices does come standard with a earth/ground 3rd prong, all the others connected via RCA cords get magically earth/grounded by the combined RCA shields AFAIK
The main concern with two prong gear is to ensure the Active wire going into the device is connected to the internal FUSE, not the neutral.
not it is not very safe. doesn't satisfy class I or class II insulation requirements.
not it is not very safe. doesn't satisfy class I or class II insulation requirements.I don't think there's enough information to come to that conclusion. We don't know where the mains tracks are on the other side of the board or the creepage and clearances between them and the case/secondary.
The unit does use a pair of transformers (one switched for low power standby). But before the isolating transformers, the posts that the mains wire are soldered to go through the board and out the other side. So there is about 8mm of clearance between the flimsy, flexible chassis and the wires straight from the wall. I suppose it hasn't killed anyone yet...but still.
not it is not very safe. doesn't satisfy class I or class II insulation requirements.I don't think there's enough information to come to that conclusion. We don't know where the mains tracks are on the other side of the board or the creepage and clearances between them and the case/secondary.
Was just going off the fact that there is only one layer of insulation and they put two layers on any two wire mains these days. No doubt to get a compliance badge.
That said I probably have an amp done to a similar standard very close to me now and am not about to change it.
Don't ground it.
Grounding the chassis places all kind of ground loops on the system, resulting in line frequency hum.
These things were designed to work this way and to be safe according to the standards that were active then. They aren't getting unsafe over time, it's the standards that change, if you build such things from scratch today, it would look different, but still won't have a grounded chassis. As long as you do your leakage current and isolation properly, there's no reason to ground a chassis today and wasn't back then. The isolation and leakage was done properly back then is still okay for todays usage.
Don't ground it.
Grounding the chassis places all kind of ground loops on the system, resulting in line frequency hum.
These things were designed to work this way and to be safe according to the standards that were active then. They aren't getting unsafe over time, it's the standards that change, if you build such things from scratch today, it would look different, but still won't have a grounded chassis. As long as you do your leakage current and isolation properly, there's no reason to ground a chassis today and wasn't back then. The isolation and leakage was done properly back then is still okay for todays usage.
Don't ground it.
Grounding the chassis places all kind of ground loops on the system, resulting in line frequency hum.
These things were designed to work this way and to be safe according to the standards that were active then. They aren't getting unsafe over time, it's the standards that change, if you build such things from scratch today, it would look different, but still won't have a grounded chassis. As long as you do your leakage current and isolation properly, there's no reason to ground a chassis today and wasn't back then. The isolation and leakage was done properly back then is still okay for todays usage.I disagree with this!
If you can't fix a ground loop problem, you don't belong in this forum. But none of us (even the physicians) can fix electrocution.
not it is not very safe. doesn't satisfy class I or class II insulation requirements.I don't think there's enough information to come to that conclusion. We don't know where the mains tracks are on the other side of the board or the creepage and clearances between them and the case/secondary.
Was just going off the fact that there is only one layer of insulation and they put two layers on any two wire mains these days. No doubt to get a compliance badge.
That said I probably have an amp done to a similar standard very close to me now and am not about to change it.There are two layers of insulation on the mains cable: the black over jacket on top of the brown and blue insulation on the two cores.
I never stop being puzzled about electronics people and their fear for mains voltage. We are talking about maximum 250 volts. It's not kilovolts. Some of you do really need to get some realism into this.
This is a stereo. It's meant for a normal domestic environment, i.e. no excessive humidity or dust. It is not ment to be mechanically abused as power tools are.
I never stop being puzzled about electronics people and their fear for mains voltage. We are talking about maximum 250 volts. It's not kilovolts. Some of you do really need to get some realism into this.Realism is that 250VAC indiscriminately kills. I think your sentence is dangerous in itself as newcomers may read it and then we're reading another thread about someone dying as a result of ignorance or negligence.
I never stop being puzzled about electronics people and their fear for mains voltage. We are talking about maximum 250 volts. It's not kilovolts. Some of you do really need to get some realism into this.Realism is that 250VAC indiscriminately kills. I think your sentence is dangerous in itself as newcomers may read it and then we're reading another thread about someone dying as a result of ignorance or negligence.
No, people must get realism into this. Confirm the regulations. 4mm clearance and 5mm creepage. This is for reinforced insulation. Normal insulation is half of that.
4 or 5mm is not much, but the most stringent regulations says it is enough.
That mains power cable, I recognize as a chinese special- I've never seen on a product with real safety approvals like UL/CSA.
Sure the wire's insulation can have UL/CSA written on it but as a power cable, it's a fail.