Congrats on getting them up and running. Hopefully when the battery packs are in the nag goes away, easily tested anyway. Time to binge watch some more of your videos.
I am a hobbyist and have learned a lot by watching your videos the last couple of years. I thank you for that. Keep them coming.
A few hours after publishing my previous video I realized that there is a very easy fix for the problem with the mirrored connector. How come It did not occur to me right away? It is so obvious (once you know the answer)! Just use an FFC with contacts on the opposite sides.
Opposite-side FFC:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/710-686715100001
If you have a spare ASIC for the input I would be interested anyone?
Amazing job making the keypad!
I have a B model and I can hear the fan bearings are going. Pity the same model fan isn't available. I wonder if anyone else has find one that fits the mounting? If you're replacing one, maybe the metal housing can be reused? There is
this 'nidec copal' on digikey as well as the Delta brand ones. However, it is 400mW...
would a reversed flat cable could have worked ?
straight = flat pins on the same side
reversed = flat pins connector on opposed sides
Here is the response from Fluke technical support regarding the memory module and the power connector with sealing ring:
PN 402224619841/ PN 2042555: Item Desc :FLASH/SRAM MODULE 190BC
This item was discontinued in March 2017
PN 402224492561/ PN 1285578: Item Desc :POWER CONNECTOR SP
MSRP: $33.98
ATP: 6 WEEKS
PN 402224498331/ PN 1286052: Item Desc :SEALING RING FOR POWER CONNECTOR
This item was discontinued in June 2009. Replaced with PN 2413816
PN 2413816: Item Desc :SEALING RING POWERCON.
MSRP: $7.21
ATP: 6 WEEKS
Hi FeedbackLoop,
That's an awesome feast to DIY the kaypad foil for 199C. I need one keypad foil for a 199C. Are you going to put the extra ones up for sale as you mentioned in your video #93?
Thanks,
Ken
Hi FeedbackLoop,
That's an awesome feast to DIY the kaypad foil for 199C. I need one keypad foil for a 199C. Are you going to put the extra ones up for sale as you mentioned in your video #93?
Thanks,
Ken
Perhaps. I still need to order some opposite-side cables, more connectors and give this a try.
I should have shown a close-up of the BMS in the video.
Wow, a lot of work/detail indeed, you really do seem to enjoy tinkering with battery replacements !
It was so in depth that I was kinda surprised and " disappointed " that you didn't go to the extent of actually measuring accurately the start-up current of the scope with.. another scope, to see exactly how much current it needs, see the shape of the waveform, how it progressively settles to 900mA etc.. would have been cool
Many things could have been explored in more detail. Such things take a lot of time. At some point you just have to choose and call something good enough.
Hi FeedbackLoop: This modification is awesome as usual. BTW, I need one keypad foil for a 199C. Just wondering if you'll share the gerber file of the designed keypad foil if possible. Thanks a lot. ---Ken.
The BMS is 2S 7.4V 7.2V Li-ion Li-Po Battery Protection BMS PCM Ch/Dis. Current 4A 2S4AW004.
eBay item number:321761796022
I think this is the correct one?
You think is necessary to install the 130k resistor ? it will damage the pack by overvoltage? because my screen is fragile ,for me is to much risk to take it a part.
Thank you.
Rollin
The BMS is 2S 7.4V 7.2V Li-ion Li-Po Battery Protection BMS PCM Ch/Dis. Current 4A 2S4AW004.
eBay item number:321761796022
I think this is the correct one?
You think is necessary to install the 130k resistor ? it will damage the pack by overvoltage? because my screen is fragile ,for me is to much risk to take it a part.
Thank you.
Rollin
Looks right. Not the cheapest one though. I believe I have seen under $3 delivered.
I used a 120K resistor. 130K will probably set the voltage too high. I believe it is necessary. As I mentioned in the video, BMS will prevent catastrophic overvoltage, but we should not rely on it for normal charging. It is set to about 8.6V.
On the other hand, removing the main board does not involve removing the LCD. So I don't see a problem.
Feedback loop can you share the gerber file so he can fix his 199C?
I don't mind sharing the gerbers. I am a bit reluctant because I am not proud of the connector placement. I would like to move it a bit down, so that it wouldn't need to be soldered a bit above the board, and it would be a bit easier to install the board. Perhaps I should make the change and run another batch, but I don't need them myself. Is there enough demand, say for 10 boards? Say, we call it $20 plus postage for one kit: board + connector + falt flex (with opposite-side contacts) for the new batch. I still have a couple from the first batch ($30 + postage).
I always thoroughly enjoy your videos!