I actually mentioned this in a different thread I think? The springs were folded over and pinched so I did recommend on a post to look at the new meters batteries and try to bend the springs down and put them back into alignment. I know everything is going modular these days but it looks like the back battery molding was separate from the battery case, as if the battery case was a module that was just put into square placeholder on the back molding.
I forgot if it was you who mentioned it. I was just curious to see what the battery compartment and springs looked like on video.
I actually mentioned this in a different thread I think? The springs were folded over and pinched so I did recommend on a post to look at the new meters batteries and try to bend the springs down and put them back into alignment. I know everything is going modular these days but it looks like the back battery molding was separate from the battery case, as if the battery case was a module that was just put into square placeholder on the back molding.
I forgot if it was you who mentioned it. I was just curious to see what the battery compartment and springs looked like on video.
Unfortunately I didn’t have a camera rolling when I looked at this. I guess I didn’t expect that with the batteries. Seems like a simple old tech on how batteries are held into something. The only time I’ve had to mod a battery spring was with an LED flashlight build if the battery had a protection circuit, then I had to shorten the spring or replace the spring with a stronger shorter spring for better contact to get full looser to the LED driver. I’ll take a second look and see if the springs bent back or if they stayed after I adjudged them and let out know.
If anyone in the US can post a photo of the packaging then we'd be curious to see it. Thanks.
See pictures below. Essentially product box placed loose in shipping box with a tiny bit of bubble wrap for padding. Really no different from how Amazon packs stuff.
Just got the notice that I have 48 hours to confirm the delivery address. Does that mean I am in the batch to receive my meter next? I just want to check as I am on a fixed term contract for the next 6 weeks and I would rather have my meter delivered to work since my house if unattended during the day and I want to ensure I get my delivery.
And if I as in the batch to get my meter next, Hell yeah!
Dave,
I elected to pre-pay the EU VAT but I've still not received any PayPal invoice for it, I've also sent you a message on Kickstarter about this some days ago...
Dave,
I elected to pre-pay the EU VAT but I've still not received any PayPal invoice for it, I've also sent you a message on Kickstarter about this some days ago...
Me too. I just got the last chance to confirm shipping address from Kickstarter, but have not received a PayPal invoice for the VAT. I do not want to be scalped by the courier for processing fees. Dave, please confirm that the PayPal thing is in hand.
Hi
I am backer #2,228, and I backed for 2 meters. As I had to pay the VAT (european recidence) I was only charged for 1 meter. I left a comment on KS and payed anyway, hoping to still receive 2 meters. However, in the latest email regarding confirmation of the shipping address, it got confirmed that ONE meter is included in the shipment.
Is this due to an error, or is the second meter shipped from the next batch of meters? (Could be done this way to ensure all backers got at least 1 meter as soon as possible.)
Cheers!
Backer #47 .. Received the meter today, #381.
It's going to take a while for me to get used to it since my older meters are a lot more primitive. I shall admit that my most-used meter was not auto-ranging.
Since there has been firmware updates, is the manual at
http://www.eevblog.com/files/EEVblog-121GW-Manual.pdf the most current version of the manual? Mine did not arrive with any manual, only a calibration cert.
looking forward to receiving mine, where can I buy reliable alligator clips for the supplied probes? (if they exists)
Backer #47 .. Received the meter today, #381.
It's going to take a while for me to get used to it since my older meters are a lot more primitive. I shall admit that my most-used meter was not auto-ranging.
Since there has been firmware updates, is the manual at http://www.eevblog.com/files/EEVblog-121GW-Manual.pdf the most current version of the manual? Mine did not arrive with any manual, only a calibration cert.
It should be the latest manual. The manual does have a revision date in it. If the date matches close to the date of the latest firmware you can asssum it is. I think it also has a change log as well with dates changed.
Most of the firmwares have been bug fixes, I think the only change was VA now only goes to 50V, but the original manual didn’t have much listed for VA. So if anything they added the clause of the VA max now.
Enjoy using an auto ranging meter now,
Scott
And delivered. It's Christmas in May!!!
Dave - thanks for all of your hard work bringing this meter to market. It was a bit of a breech birth
Here is a follow up on my initial thoughts. The way the switch was feeling bothered me, so I decided to take a look and found something unexpected. Now when I look at Dave’s video on 10K switch cycles it shows the shim with the routed area facing down over the C-Clip (or called e-clip in the instructions).
But if you look at the instructions is states the routed part must face “UPWARD” - see attached picture.
So my question comes with this “upward” statement, is this talking about upward meaning up as “facing up to the front of the meter towards the buttons? Or up as in up towards the ceiling or the sky so it will be facing the PCB when put back together?
Seems to me the routed area should go over the clip as shown in Dave’s switch testing video? The contact rotor disc that the shim meets with attached to the board doesn’t have anything sticking up that this routed out area on the shim would benefit from. Maybe it’s just how I’m interrupting the instructions, but if it’s supposed to go over the clip and the meter is taken apart facing front down on the table then it seems to make more sense the instructions say the router area needs to point downward, not upwards. Or just say it needs to go over the clip since the clip is mentioned and clearly pointed out in the instructions?
Does anyone have any clearifcation in this?
Thanks,
Scott
Fairly sure the recess is to give room for the raised shaft bore on the contact plate, so so spacer recessed face should face PCB when assembled (away from circlip).
borrowed base image from BiOzZ https://imgur.com/a/vHISAb5
Fairly sure the recess is to give room for the raised shaft bore on the contact plate, so so spacer recessed face should face PCB when assembled (away from circlip).
borrowed base image from BiOzZ https://imgur.com/a/vHISAb5
I think you may be correct. Mine did still work better, but I also dremeled off those three breakaway mold points as well and just didn’t put this in the video. Dave’s test video does show it backwards, and I saw that video before I realized instruction were available for those who had the switch sent to them.
I removed the video, updated it. And will lit the updated version up later. It still showed an issue with the 50M ohm range being affected by temperature. I’ve done some more testing since that video and confirmed this, just waiting for someone else to confirm this as well. I posted it in the bug reporting thread.
Thanks,
Scott
Are there any release notes for the firmware updates?
I finally received my 121GW, and I wonder whether the update from 1.15 to 1.17 is worth the hassle.
Backer #525 here
I received meter #527
Two numbers off haha.
Meh close enough.
The meter actually turned up Monday last week, but only this weekend getting a chance to have a play due to work.
So far it is looking nice, and should go very nicely on my bench next to my Bryman BM235.
My first ever Kickstarter thing I have ever backed, and I only did so because I trusted Dave to deliver.
I can report that I am one very happy backer here and my faith was well placed.
Indeed you're right. The E or C-clip needs to go first over the knob and then the shim over the shaft. I tried to get the C (E) clip over the shaft on top of the shim and this was not possible and nearly broke the C (E) clip. I apologize if I'm complaining too much but my meter is mechanically not super well before and certainly after the shim installation. Too tight to turn the selector knob. I did notice just now one small incorrect statement in the manual (v17) on the buzzer on/off set-up option. It reads on page 59 " 4. Hold SETUP until a beep is heard to save the value. " this is not true when saving for buzzer off setting.
Are the meters supposed to come with a pre-installed microSD card?
Are the meters supposed to come with a pre-installed microSD card?
Yes. Sandisk edge 8gb in mine, but don't know if all the same.
I apologize if I'm complaining too much but my meter is mechanically not super well before and certainly after the shim installation. Too tight to turn the selector knob.
Double check which way the shim is facing. Mine came with the shim flipped the wrong way, the knob was way too tight as a result. The recessed face of the shim should face the PCB when assembled (away from retaining ring on the shaft).