Jep. In my humble opinion safety is not alone about personal safety. It is also dedicated to circumstances and other people.
That is one of the things I've learned since I was 12 years old and joined the voluntary fire brigade in my home village.If you were buying this meter for use by others or for use in a company, it would make sense to grind off the AN8008's suspect safety ratings and engrave "50V DC/AC Maximum".
Are you sure that 50V is 100% safe under all conditions? Have you tested that?
We wouldn't want to take any chances...
There is no fuse in the Fluke 101. I doesn't measure current. For that you need the Fluke 106 that doesn't heave diode measurment. Only the Fluke 107 has them all. Of course it's the most expensive. The are trying to upsell you really hard here.
Sorry to ask guys and I'm sure it must be obvious, but where is the fuse on the Fluke 101? I did notice the PTCs, but didn't see a glass or ceramic fuse in the images.
Sorry to ask guys and I'm sure it must be obvious, but where is the fuse on the Fluke 101? I did notice the PTCs, but didn't see a glass or ceramic fuse in the images.
The 101 can't directly read current. It's one of the reasons I like the meter for beginners. One less thing to get you into trouble. Of course you may still be able to use a shunt or an amplified shunt with it to measure current.
The 107 can read current and is still fairly small but comes with a price. Like its little brother the 101, its also very robust.
Sorry to ask guys and I'm sure it must be obvious, but where is the fuse on the Fluke 101? I did notice the PTCs, but didn't see a glass or ceramic fuse in the images.
The 101 can't directly read current. It's one of the reasons I like the meter for beginners. One less thing to get you into trouble. Of course you may still be able to use a shunt or an amplified shunt with it to measure current.
The 107 can read current and is still fairly small but comes with a price. Like its little brother the 101, its also very robust.
I'm thinking of building a shunt adapter for the Fluke 101. Basically some test leads cut open and a shunt soldered in place.
A lot a cheap meters are not very robust, electrically or mechanically, I'll grant you that. It can be easy kill the meter, but they are still far from hurting the user. What would it even take to hurt the user through the case of a meter?
A very spectacular show to sell Fluke meters.
A lot a cheap meters are not very robust, electrically or mechanically, I'll grant you that. It can be easy kill the meter, but they are still far from hurting the user. What would it even take to hurt the user through the case of a meter?
Sorry to ask guys and I'm sure it must be obvious, but where is the fuse on the Fluke 101? I did notice the PTCs, but didn't see a glass or ceramic fuse in the images.
The 101 can't directly read current. It's one of the reasons I like the meter for beginners. One less thing to get you into trouble. Of course you may still be able to use a shunt or an amplified shunt with it to measure current.
The 107 can read current and is still fairly small but comes with a price. Like its little brother the 101, its also very robust.
I'm thinking of building a shunt adapter for the Fluke 101. Basically some test leads cut open and a shunt soldered in place.
Regarding making shunts, is it as simple as getting a high wattage, high accuracy resistor?
I'm getting myself some 1Ohm 2W metal film resistors and put ten of them in paralell. 20W sould be enough and it also should be reasonably accurate. Buying a adequate shunt, could be quite expensive I think.
I'm thinking of building a shunt adapter for the Fluke 101. Basically some test leads cut open and a shunt soldered in place.
I'm thinking of building a shunt adapter for the Fluke 101. Basically some test leads cut open and a shunt soldered in place.
I'm sure that will be much safer than the flimsy AN8008...
Don' forget the HRC fuse, blast-proof enclosure etc.!
https://www.pollin.de/p/alu-gehaeuse-raychem-rpg-aluein-98x64x34-mm-460166
Try to blast this one...
I'm thinking of building a shunt adapter for the Fluke 101. Basically some test leads cut open and a shunt soldered in place.
I'm sure that will be much safer than the flimsy AN8008...
Don' forget the HRC fuse, blast-proof enclosure etc.!
People make a lot of noise about false CAT-ratings. Why don't the same people make a lot of noise about what really matters when it comes to electrical safety?
Most countries around the world have a lot of legal regulations about education and long-time experience specifying what kind of work you are allowed to do on almost ANY kind of electrical equipment or wiring.
My humble guess is that only a very few of you are legally allowed to touch anything that will require a multimeter with a CAT-rating.
So, why don't you spend your time telling beginners to stay away from what they are not allowed to do instead of all the scaremongering?
Wrong CAT-ratings are among the least thing a beginner should worry about when it comes to safety.
I have heard of people attaching a meter with the leads connected to the current inputs across the AC line by mistake. Do this in a CAT II, chances are good you may only pop a fuse of trip a breaker. CAT III and up is where the HRC fuses really come into play.
My point was -- why complain about the AN8008 and its tiny fuses, and then rig up "some test leads cut open and a shunt soldered in place" to measure current with your Fluke 101 ? That's what Rbastler initially announced he wanted to build, and what I was commenting on. Seems he has raised the bar in the meantime; and I have no doubt that a shunt can be built properly. Whether that gives you the most economic/compact/convenient solution, compared to buying e.g. a Brymen BM235 in the first place, is another matter...
Sorry to ask guys and I'm sure it must be obvious, but where is the fuse on the Fluke 101? I did notice the PTCs, but didn't see a glass or ceramic fuse in the images.
Regarding making shunts, is it as simple as getting a high wattage, high accuracy resistor?
IMO, any meter, not just the AN8008, with a built-in shunt you are prone to making a mistake with it. The 101 with an external shunt I would again say chances are slim to make that same mistake.
As you mention the BM235 which is certified, so even if you do intentionally do some idiot move with the current inputs or just make a mistake, assuming you were not stupid enough to jump the fuse like some member's here, you should fair better than the AN8008 in the same case. That's a guess on my part and if it were me, I can tell you which meter between the two I would choose hands down! I would still say, the 101 without the current input would be a better setup.