Just got a Power designs 2010 in very nice condition for $60.00 on ebay today. Anxious to see how it performs.
Just got a Power designs 2020 (20V 2A other specs same as 2005) in excellent condition for $85.00 on ebay today. They are hiding in many places on ebay. A simple "Power Designs" search does not show them all.
You bought another? Good for you! I'm watching many of them, so you must be the one buying some as I see only single buyers on 2 units in the past week ... but if our review means anything later on, it could be hard to find cheaply. Enjoy!
Service, user and schematics for the 2005, 2010, 5020 and C500 are available as pdfs. The schematics show some of the designs are so simple, its amazing such stability can be had so simply.
Likewise, many of the popular general PD PSU have manuals, such as that pictured in the Jim Williams post.
This was the first. I was the only bidder ..
This was the second. Was asking $119.99 ..
There are many in much worse condition and more money I was very fortunate thanks to your heads up on these suppliesService, user and schematics for the 2005, 2010, 5020 and C500 are available as pdfs. The schematics show some of the designs are so simple, its amazing such stability can be had so simply.
Likewise, many of the popular general PD PSU have manuals, such as that pictured in the Jim Williams post.
saturation, do you have links to these pdfs? I have looked some and only found them available for sale not free.
Thanks, robrenz
I own a BK Precision GPS-4303 PSU which I absolutely love. It is a 4 channel power supply, but you can get a 2 or 3 channel one for cheaper (around $200 - $400).
One thing I would like to mention as you say you are a beginner, is don't expect to find a PSU that offers quality constant current operation. When we refer to setting the current on a PSU it means the maximum current. It is always the voltage that is kept constant, and Ohm's Law can be used to determine how much current that will yield (I = V/R). If you set the voltage to a greater value than can be achieved while maintaining the max current dialed in, then effectively it will be a constant current source, but don't rely on this; it will over/under shoot and may fail altogether.
saturation, thanks for the help. I still need to find the 2010 manual. The googledocs was for 2020 not 2010 (I am not complaining ).
I got the first unit (the 2010) today. Wow, as Dave would say "pure electronic equipment pornography" As a machinist I especially appreciate the quality of the knobs and dials. Voltage output is well within spec and front and rear panel are mint condition. Only the case paint needs a little help but I cant believe I got this for $60.00
Thanks again for all the info.
I agree about the manual similarity and that these power suppies are unbelievable.
100mV setting. stat mode on the 8846A 6.5 digit 100nplc digital filter
1 hour AVG 99.99839 mV 1.75 uV min-max span SD of .392 uV
3 hour AVG 99.99873 mV 2.93 uV min-max span SD of .667 uV
6 hour AVG 99.99935 mV 3.33 uV min-max span SD of .855 uV
My 8846A shorted input DC 24hr stability min-max span is 1.15 uV !
Full 1A load output ripple measured with 8846A on AC is 15.8 uV max.
I know this is way out of the guaranteed specs of the 8846A but I did some crude testing here https://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-reviews-photos-and-discussion/low-level-ac-performance-of-fluke-8846a/msg76514/#msg76514 that shows it is way better than the specs and does not put out bogus numbers down here like some meters aparently do.
I don't know about you but I might replace that mV pot with a 10 turn and a turns counter. It is very hard to set 1uv levels with that 1 turn pot.
I just switched to 1V instead of .1V and the min-max span is 16uV with a SD of 4.6uV for 2 hours run time. So it looks like it may be a percentage of output voltage just like the spec implies. What voltage are you testing at?
This is the turns counter I quickly found. This is the model with no brake. It is available with brake also.
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70125994
@ saturation
I have deoxit 5 for the switches and also gold, and I use the fader lube for pots. but its good to get a thumbs up on using it. I get the bottled liquid instead of the spray. If I need to spray it I put a drop or two in a fine solder paste dispensing needle and put it on my paste dispenser and give it a 70psi blast. With that you can get into places the spray cans cant touch.
Should we start a new thread for these PD suppies and ask for the PD related stuff here to be moved/copied to it?
10 volts is showing 16uv span and 2.3uV SD for 15 mins
Damn, 10 Mega Volt
Those are great ideas for applying deoxit, you think the spray can with nozzle is still not fine enough?
Those are great ideas for applying deoxit, you think the spray can with nozzle is still not fine enough?
I don't have a problem with spray cans. I just like the versatility and cost effectiveness of the bottles or tubes. You never run out of propellant pressure with my method and you can swab every last drop out of the bottle. I keep a micro brush applicator http://www.microbrush.com/automotive/products/microbrush/index.asp with each bottle for non spray application. I have more control with the hypodermic/paste dispenser method as to the amount and where it goes. a carefully located drilled source (and drain if needed) micro holes in a switch or pot can allow cleaning and lube without disassembly. You can put as much IPA or your favorite cleaning solvent into a glue dispenser syringe as you feel appropriate and inject it under pressure. Then take the piston out of the syringe and blow it out with just the air. Then blast the conditioner or lube in.
I own a BK Precision GPS-4303 PSU which I absolutely love. It is a 4 channel power supply, but you can get a 2 or 3 channel one for cheaper (around $200 - $400).
One thing I would like to mention as you say you are a beginner, is don't expect to find a PSU that offers quality constant current operation. When we refer to setting the current on a PSU it means the maximum current. It is always the voltage that is kept constant, and Ohm's Law can be used to determine how much current that will yield (I = V/R). If you set the voltage to a greater value than can be achieved while maintaining the max current dialed in, then effectively it will be a constant current source, but don't rely on this; it will over/under shoot and may fail altogether.
Thanks for the information about the current settings. The reason I'm interested in that setting is to test circuit designs under less than ideal power. Ie failing or low battery.