NO AC volts function. I have a couple days to return it. But I would like to know if say an ac coupling cap could cause this. I was planning to recap anyway.
Can a bad fuseable protection device cause only a no AC problem?
Recapping an 8060A:
(I apologize for the long length of this post and perhaps too much detail here. But not everyone doing this has your years of experience. Use good ESD practices.)
Perhaps this issue needs a separate post elsewhere, to keep things here more On Topic
Perhaps this issue needs a separate post elsewhere, to keep things here more On Topic
Maybe you could start your very own "Electro Detective's Rants" thread.
Thanks, Fungus.
All the switches are solid, no scratchyness. I also did all the self tests including the switch tests. All ok according to table. Not sure how thorough that is.
I don't want to lose my chance of returning it. I wrote the seller last night asking if I could poke around inside, but haven't heard from him yet.
Further pondering of schematic tells me the cap replacement list would not be related to the trms area anyway.
The ac coupling cap on the input is unlikely to be bad.
Bummer, I thought I'd be able to use it this weekend in DB mode to work on broadcast and recording studio upgrades.
NO AC volts function.
BTW, the 8060A manual suggests
Switches S3D, S3B
Check power supply connections
J13 Vss
J7 Com
J12 Vdd
Many thanks to Mr. Taylor for the generous postings here
Everyone here realises the plastic post screw casing fiasco isn't on him,
nor is it an exclusive Fluke thing, despite it still going on!
Here's one of my Fluke 87Vs that I opened recently for the first time to give it a check and borrow it's fuse to test another meter
As I unscrewed I felt/heard a crack type sound, and assumed it was the self tapping screw binding on the post.
Upon close inspection...well, a picture is like a thousand words
i.e. the sucker was spot welded to the post, so of course any normal force to unscrew it, cracked the post!
I'm past ranting about this stuff, the manufacturers charging big dollars and boasting CAT Rated explosive containment that isn't better than many $6.99 One Hung TuLo meters,
need to get their act into gear ASAP.
Perhaps this issue needs a separate post elsewhere, to keep things here more On Topic
Why did the post crack exactly? I don't quite get the gist of the spot welding remark.
Why did the post crack exactly? I don't quite get the gist of the spot welding remark.
I guess Electro Detective was saying, that the screw bonded e.g. "spot welded" with the screw post, thus needing excessive (in regard to pure stick/slip friction between metal and plastic) force to loosen the connection.
I have encountered those problem occasionally, but never on a meter that was owned by me from first hand.
Being careful is always a considerable option. On the other hand I can not deny that self-tapping screws are usually a sign for cheaply made products. Even the Voltcraft 6010 made in Korea by Hung Chang (rebranded HC601) has brass inserts.
Remember that Fluke pioneered the handheld LCD DMM with the release of the 8020. The 8060s case was derived from that and the means of screwing the halves together was developed for the 8020 and its derivatives. This type of plastic does get more brittle over time, but for the most part, the self-tapping (designed for plastic) screw sheathes have held up fine. Brass inserts are no panacea as I have seen them pulled out or actually break the plastic they are swedged into. I never over tighten the mounting screws and never use an electric screwdriver to put them in. BTW, I would not lube the screws, just be careful.
Why did the post crack exactly? I don't quite get the gist of the spot welding remark.
I guess Electro Detective was saying, that the screw bonded e.g. "spot welded" with the screw post, thus needing excessive (in regard to pure stick/slip friction between metal and plastic) force to loosen the connection.
This one appears to have no serial number on the back. Is it one of the pre-production units?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/162648532644
Edit: The pixels where the serial number should be are slightly discolored. I wonder if the seller photoshopped it.
The issue is in the too -hard basket- even for genies, wizards, witches and the horned dude below
Anybody want a blue one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/162649858342
Just don't eat or smoke it [...] and you'll do ok
That nice grey/gray/non-blue one is still on offer http://www.ebay.com/itm/162648532644
One went a couple of weeks ago for $66, new in box with everything. Serial number in the 400s so probably a good one.