I examined my 8024B, S/N 3990037. It appears to work fine, with sharp black display segments.
The "Dark Pewter" button on the function switch is broken but looks like I can rebuild it with epoxy. There are also two 3D-print templates at Thingiverse, once my local library gets a printer. Thing numbers 2373469 and 5307572.
The secret to getting the boards out is you have to remove the shield screw.
The main board is Rev L and assembly Rev J, switch board Rev H and assembly Rev F. There are 1984-1985 date codes everywhere.
The electrolytic caps are Chemi-Con with no visible leakage, the boards are sparkling clean except a bit of dust on the switch solder side.
The two switch board retaining pillars are covered in a "fur" of tin whiskers
The amps shunt resistor on the switch board presses against the side of the cap on the main board, it has rubbed through the plastic sleeve.
I'm also working on the board layout and program for my 8060A beep frequency shifter. Can't use LFINTOSC for the Numerically Controlled Oscillator, it's f+/-25%. The choices are HFINTOSC (+/-3%) or external 40kHz clock from the MAC.
UPDATE. I ordered parts and sent the board layout to OSHPark. The program will use external clock. Epoxy is setting in the broken 8024B button. The 8024B caps read okay. My instrument (which sports a battery threshold trimmer) is closer to the 1988 Rev 2 manual than the 1982 Rev 1.
UPDATE 2. I rebuilt my 8024B's broken button with JB Weld slow 2-part epoxy. I inserted a strip of business card with slits in the paper to clear the ribs on the bottom, wedged it in place with lengths cut from round toothpick, and filled the bottom and end with epoxy. After it set I pulled off the paper, scratched off the residue, and filed down the excess. I'll still 3D print, just to compare and in case my repair fails. I think I'm ready to simulate my 8060A Beep Frequency program.