Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[Saskia]

depending on where in Canadia the shack content just sublimates into thin air ...

[Specmaster]

I turned the fan around on the shaft. It is definitely "pulling" now rather than "pushing".  Not much change in noise level. Still pretty annoying. 

Thats better at least, the noise level might be increased because you have removed the filter. Do you know how many cubic feet of air the fan is supposed to be moving per minute? If you attempt to modify the fan be fitting a modern case fan, you need to ensure that you don't reduce the airflow otherwise overheating will of the scope will occur and all the issues that will bring you to resolve.

At least at the moment, it is working in the correct mode and the 310 should thank you for the increased cooling its now getting.

Remember, this fan mount was an option. The Type 310A will work without it and not trip it's thermals but it does run very hot. I've had it powered up for 6 hours straight without the fan and no issues. As I see it the CFM is kinda immaterial. I've pretty much decided I'm going to replace this fan with something quieter. And probably less airflow. But the point is that it will provide some which is better than none.

I tried simulating a filter by placing folded over paper towels in front of the vents. No change in noise so my conclusion is that even with the proper filter installed this mofo is just too fucking loud.   

Well as the Dwagon said, its yours to do what you want with it, but personally, I'd leave it as I would be using that scope very often because of its limited ability when compared to most of your other ones, plus of course, I don't actually know just how noisy it is of course. It could be if I heard it that I'd be looking to reduce it as well  , who knows but I would certainly try to retain it as it designed to be, it might be worth it at some point in the future if its value rockets up.

[tautech]

Talking of ponies....mine's busted.....well it's 'ers actually and took a few days to find just where the coolant leak was coming from.....f'ing plastic tanked radiators !     New aftermarket one sourced today and fitted tonight with just a block flush required in the morning before hoses back on and fill with new coolant. Once I enjoyed this stuff but not so much anymore. 

Still, nearly 20 years outta the original in a Commodore VXII is not too bad for an alloy and plastic POS.

Managing to contain coolant for 20 years of vibration, temperature-cycling, dirt etc. without a leak is quite an achievement. Why is it a POS? How many other parts of the car failed or had to be replaced before it?

McBryce.

1) Alloy radiator core is approx 40% higher thermal transfer for the same volume in an engine compartment.

2) Plastic tanks are necessary to isolate the core electrically from the grounded body of the car due to clogging caused by electrolysis. This is also why we have the pink coolant.

3) The same electrolysis also clogs up copper/brass radiators unless they run their entire lives with only pure distilled water in them. It just takes a little longer.

4) Plastic/alloy radiators are 100% recyclable, and in a profitable manner.

5) Brass/copper radiators are full of lead, so not recyclable and ultimately a toxic waste product.

6) Most of the copper/brass automobile radiators in service for the last 3 decades have been recored... the only part of the original radiator left are the tanks, which you get NEW with a modern radiator.

The commonplace hatred for modern radiators is entirely misplaced; they are better all around. FULL STOP.  The majority of brass/copper radiators never lasted any longer than modern alloy/plastic radiators... the difference is that ignorant dumbasses could patch a hole in the brass.

So, because you can't do a ghetto-fab fix with the aluminum cored rads, ignorant folks that live on booty-fab rather than proper repair hate them.

mnem
Ignorance is curable; dumbasses will not learn.

Points noted however IMHO Alloy and plastic rads are a POS.
Got 40 yr old conventional rads still in service here and never been touched !

[BU508A]

The Balver Zinn LF2220NC SN100C (SnCu0,7Ni --- NC - No Clean)
has been arrived today.

(1) - reserved
(2) - reserved
(3) - reserved
(4) - BU508A (has been opened by the previous owner)
(5) - reserved

Price per role: EUR 18,-
Shipping (without tracking): DE: EUR 4,50 - EU: EUR 9,-



If you are interested, please send me a PM. If no one here is interested, I'll put the last (two) one of them in a few days in the sales thread.

Datasheet attached below

Edit: Thank you very much to all who took a role. Much appreciated. 

[xrunner]

A member is posting pics of TEA thread participants, not sure which one this is though 

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/stock-electronic-image-fails/msg3312568/#msg3312568

(it's not me I'm albino)

[bd139]

Not me. Too much hair on top 

[Specmaster]

Snap

[BU508A]

It isn't me either.
I do not look that intelligent.   

[mnementh]

Not me. Too much hair on top 

Fuck. Beat me to it. 

Ditto here.

mnem
 

[mnementh]

I turned the fan around on the shaft. It is definitely "pulling" now rather than "pushing".  Not much change in noise level. Still pretty annoying. 

In other words....if the filter were installed the fan is pulling the air through it as it should. Verified with smoke from a candle. 

Edit, and the heat is now going out the top vents of the scope.

Ummm... okay... flipping the fan BLADE around will not reverse direction of airflow. ONLY changing the direction of rotation will do that. With flipping the fan blade, one way it moves lots of air, the other way not as much and usually noisier as it is just freewheeling instead of getting a proper bite in the air.

Please just humor me... post a pic of the fan as it is assembled now.

It's not like I don't know a thing or three aboot fans... I build and pilot little whirry flying things that are essentially 4 of them in CW & CCW pairs. FOR FUN. 

mnem
 

[bd139]

Gah on that I was just watching this 

[mnementh]

1) Alloy radiator core is approx 40% higher thermal transfer for the same volume in an engine compartment.

2) Plastic tanks are necessary to isolate the core electrically from the grounded body of the car due to clogging caused by electrolysis. This is also why we have the pink coolant.

3) The same electrolysis also clogs up copper/brass radiators unless they run their entire lives with only pure distilled water in them. It just takes a little longer.

4) Plastic/alloy radiators are 100% recyclable, and in a profitable manner.

5) Brass/copper radiators are full of lead, so not recyclable and ultimately a toxic waste product.

6) Most of the copper/brass automobile radiators in service for the last 3 decades have been recored... the only part of the original radiator left are the tanks, which you get NEW with a modern radiator.

The commonplace hatred for modern radiators is entirely misplaced; they are better all around. FULL STOP.  The majority of brass/copper radiators never lasted any longer than modern alloy/plastic radiators... the difference is that ignorant dumbasses could patch a hole in the brass.

So, because you can't do a ghetto-fab fix with the aluminum cored rads, ignorant folks that live on booty-fab rather than proper repair hate them.

mnem
Ignorance is curable; dumbasses will not learn.

Points noted however IMHO Alloy and plastic rads are a POS.  Got 40 yr old conventional rads still in service here and never been touched !

Throwing up the exception of a radiator or two that exceeds design life by a factor of 3 is not reasonable. Also, just because the engine it's attached to still runs without overheating does not mean a radiator is "good"; they all suffer from fin rot whether copper or aluminum. That is directly proportionate to age. Go ask your favorite radiator shop; I'll wait. I used to work in one, and I've learned all the nasty little secrets of the radiator species.

TL/DR: Your bell end examples are not a good reason to go back to inferior radiators on our daily drivers. 

mnem
 

[med6753]

I turned the fan around on the shaft. It is definitely "pulling" now rather than "pushing".  Not much change in noise level. Still pretty annoying. 

In other words....if the filter were installed the fan is pulling the air through it as it should. Verified with smoke from a candle. 

Edit, and the heat is now going out the top vents of the scope.

Ummm... okay... flipping the fan BLADE around will not reverse direction of airflow. ONLY changing the direction of rotation will do that. With flipping the fan blade, one way it moves lots of air, the other way not as much and usually noisier as it is just freewheeling instead of getting a proper bite in the air.

Please just humor me... post a pic of the fan as it is assembled now.

It's not like I don't know a thing or three aboot fans... I build and pilot little whirry flying things that are essentially 4 of them in CW & CCW pairs. FOR FUN. 

mnem
 

I'll post it tomorrow. Don't feel like ripping it apart right now.

[med6753]

A member is posting pics of TEA thread participants, not sure which one this is though 

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/stock-electronic-image-fails/msg3312568/#msg3312568

(it's not me I'm albino)

It's me. 

[mnementh]

Gah on that I was just watching this 

This guy is the FPV equivalent of ElectroBoom; a complete fucking moron. You don't run any modern BL motor without a prop; they're too high performance. The ESC loses necessary commutation feedback and goes out of sync, and then you wind up with a LO side FET still biased on when the next commutation fires the HI side, and POOF! Dead short through the windings and fire. If not, then the bell grenades as the magnets are only held in place with machined slots & epoxy.

I wish I had that kind of money to waste making myself look like an idiot. 

mnem
 

[mnementh]

Progress. Started out this morning with just the bare rectangular base frame (the galvanized metal on the bottom) assembled. This part goes relatively quickly; aside from me having to get my fat ass down on the ground every once in a while when a screw hole doesn't want to line up on the bottom edge.

Well, getting down isn't that bad; it's getting back up with two of me in this old body, and trying to heave all that back up on a bum knee. 

mnem
"What was that ya fat bastahd...? Here; have a little pain!!!"

I’ve got one of those sheds. Absolutely rock solid but not pikey proof as evidenced by the short work they did with mine and a nibbler. Very disappointed at the mouldy kids bike, lawn mower that was deceased anyway and some rusty garden tools getting nicked. Totally was. Honestly. Recommend strapping it to the primary on your local unfriendly pole pig if you care about the contents. 

Edit: actually you’re in Canada now. Just leave the door open

Yeah... I like that.

I was gonna post a picture of the rest of today's progress... but you wouldn't be able to tell a damn thing had happened, as all we did was fill holes with screws til well after dark.

I was startin' to feel like KEVN here...




mnem
Sorry aboot the hinky audio; this was the only example of this clip I could find that was even marginally viewable.

[xrunner]

It isn't me either.
I do not look that intelligent.   

I say don't judge a book by it's cover. 

[mnementh]

IN OTHER NEWS...



my new CReality CR-6SE finally arrived while we were working today; only 4 months late. 

I'm afraid to open the fucking box.

mnem
No, still no word on when all my add-on accessories, which were supposedly the reason this printer was held back another 2 months, will ever ship.
Shockingly, after months and months of reading people asking where their add-ons were and when they would ship, my package came with them all inside. 

[VK5RC]

Hey that is me, I am that hairy except for the head! And it looks like he is solving the problem, so it can't be me!
I wondered why I liked bananas so much.

[Specmaster]

I turned the fan around on the shaft. It is definitely "pulling" now rather than "pushing".  Not much change in noise level. Still pretty annoying. 

In other words....if the filter were installed the fan is pulling the air through it as it should. Verified with smoke from a candle. 

Edit, and the heat is now going out the top vents of the scope.

Ummm... okay... flipping the fan BLADE around will not reverse direction of airflow. ONLY changing the direction of rotation will do that. With flipping the fan blade, one way it moves lots of air, the other way not as much and usually noisier as it is just freewheeling instead of getting a proper bite in the air.

Please just humor me... post a pic of the fan as it is assembled now.

It's not like I don't know a thing or three aboot fans... I build and pilot little whirry flying things that are essentially 4 of them in CW & CCW pairs. FOR FUN. 

mnem
 

I'll post it tomorrow. Don't feel like ripping it apart right now.

When you post the photo, also state which direction the motor is running and from which vantage point was observed from please, its important because the blade has cut the air at the right point in order to be very efficient. If it isnt right, the fan will not be mechanically load right and as such the RPM could be higher than it should be and with it, unless I'm misguided on that, the noise level will be higher due to the speed, is that correct mnem?

[mnementh]

Yup, that's the nutshell. 

mnem
 

[Specmaster]

Gah on that I was just watching this 

This guy is the FPV equivalent of ElectroBoom; a complete fucking moron. You don't run any modern BL motor without a prop; they're too high performance. The ESC loses necessary commutation feedback and goes out of sync, and then you wind up with a LO side FET still biased on when the next commutation fires the HI side, and POOF! Dead short through the windings and fire. If not, then the bell grenades as the magnets are only held in place with machined slots & epoxy.

I wish I had that kind of money to waste making myself look like an idiot. 

mnem
 

I was going to say that I didn't think he had any blade on that motor, so apart from the loading aspect on the rotor, there was also zero cooling effect on the motor either.

If you have a series wound motor and you run the motor with no form of mechanical loading then as long as the power is applied to the motor it will keep accelerating until the motor suffers serious mechanical damage or even total destruction, much same as a runaway diesel engine, very frightening thing to be around.   

[mnementh]

Heads-up guys (mostly for those of you playing around with Windoze on Pi, etc):

7-Zip has an alpha out for Windows on Arm-64: https://sourceforge.net/p/sevenzip/discussion/45797/thread/7d5b1e5b51/

Direct Link to package: https://www.7-zip.org/a/7z2002-arm64.exe

mnem
You may now resume your regularly scheduled insanity.

[Neomys Sapiens]

Today I received a package which contained, along with some MS contact insertion/extraction tools, a really strange tool. It is a folding switchblade saw-cum-screwdriver, with a neon test lamp in the handle connected to the blade.
The blade has switchblade action to open and locks in the open position. The saw is not really very sharp and there is a cable-stripping groove too.
I feel a bit like watching a cow electricians' version of Gary Larsons' 'Cow Tools' cartoon.
WTF?
Mooooo!

[mnementh]

Today has been a long day; I'm still up to my armpits in that garden shed kit.



CR-6SE is printing a little dragon/dinosaur gewgaw off the card. I'll post more pics of it and the tools and my extra goodies sometime soon.

mnem