They are very disappointing. Probe resistance is inconsistent, varies from 0.7 to as high as 10 ohm,
Not the 0.1-0.2 Ohm my other leads give me. Nice look and feel though.
I've bought a pair Fluke silicone with retractable shield last year with the 4mm adapter (TL175). Not even cheap,
nearly Eur 30.
They are very disappointing. Probe resistance is inconsistent, varies from 0.7 to as high as 10 ohm,
Not the 0.1-0.2 Ohm my other leads give me. Nice look and feel though.
I've bought a pair Fluke silicone with retractable shield last year with the 4mm adapter (TL175). Not even cheap,
nearly Eur 30.
They are very disappointing. Probe resistance is inconsistent, varies from 0.7 to as high as 10 ohm,
Not the 0.1-0.2 Ohm my other leads give me. Nice look and feel though.
Take a look at this ones from Probemaster , or use regular test leads in combination with Hirschmann probes.
I have cleaned them. Does make some difference for a short time, but closing the schield also does.
They never are below 0.5 ohm, which for me is a fail.
Don't know if they are chineese copies. Bought them from a big regular EU webshop and not cheap.
I'm also gonna bet they're fake. (At absolute minimum, they are defective.) I have genuine TL175's, and they measure 0.19 ohms. 0.7 isn't even close to where they should be.
The contact surfaces aren't the only places resistance can build up. I have several Fluke TL71 lead sets. I opened a brand new set and they had over 10 ohms of resistance. I traced it down to just the red lead. Turns out the bonding between the wire and the probe tip, inside the probe body, was deficient. I actually was able to get the resistance down to .035 ohms just by manipulating the probe tip. This has been the only set of these I've purchased that were bad out of the box.
I'm also gonna bet they're fake. (At absolute minimum, they are defective.) I have genuine TL175's, and they measure 0.19 ohms. 0.7 isn't even close to where they should be.
0.19 ohms is completely impossible. Your measurement is wrong. 0.19 ohms at 1m would equal 28 AWG. That's the wire that's used in IDE cables. Even the Uni-T probes that came with my UT139C have a resistance of 37 milliohms.
Are you doing a 4 wire measurement? If not, your figures are completely meaningless. The contact resistance is a magnitude larger than the actual resistance of the leads. If just a bit of oil from your hands gets on the tips, the resistance doubles or triples.
Of course I'm not doing a 4 wire measurement, as I'm sure the others aren't either.
We're talking touch-the-tips-together-and-see-what-the-DMM-shows.
Your rude attitude is totally uncalled for.
Of course I'm not doing a 4 wire measurement, as I'm sure the others aren't either.
Yeah, they're doing it wrong as well. Point?We're talking touch-the-tips-together-and-see-what-the-DMM-shows.
What exactly are you measuring by doing that?Your rude attitude is totally uncalled for.
I wasn't being rude at all. If being told that your methodology is wrong and you're giving out random numbers as if they mean something hurts your feelings, then I can't really do anything about that.
I read somewhere online that typical lead resistance is between 1mOhm to 1 Ohm and it really only effects measurments of resistance less than 500mOhms.
I'm OK with that since I don't think I own a resistor that's less than 5 Ohms.
Now, giving someone a hard time for not doing a 4-wire measurement and telling them their "methodology" is wrong for touching the two probes together..that's not ok.
Methodology can always be improved by holding a finger up in lieu of a 4-wire measurement.
I read somewhere online that typical lead resistance is between 1mOhm to 1 Ohm and it really only effects measurments of resistance less than 500mOhms.
Generally any ohms measurement below 1 ohm is pretty much meaningless unless you're using a Kelvin setup. And again, it's not the resistance of the leads themselves (which is in the milliohms even with cheap leads), it's the contact resistance.
Generally any ohms measurement below 1 ohm is pretty much meaningless unless you're using a Kelvin setup. And again, it's not the resistance of the leads themselves (which is in the milliohms even with cheap leads), it's the contact resistance.
Only if the leads themselves are A-OK, meaning the bonds between the copper litz wire and the plugs/probe tips are OK. That is not a trivial requirement.
Defective probes are not unheard of, including really crappy stuff (UNI-T, I'm looking at you here...) where the mechanical solution pretty much guarantees the connections will fail, pretty soon.
I'm also gonna bet they're fake. (At absolute minimum, they are defective.) I have genuine TL175's, and they measure 0.19 ohms. 0.7 isn't even close to where they should be.
0.19 ohms is completely impossible. Your measurement is wrong. 0.19 ohms at 1m would equal 28 AWG. That's the wire that's used in IDE cables. Even the Uni-T probes that came with my UT139C have a resistance of 37 milliohms.
Are you doing a 4 wire measurement?
A 4 wire measurement to measure the resistance of the *actual probes* would be wrong. Where would you even attach the sense wires?
Unless one were to use probes to measure the resistance of other probes, now that would be, like, quite weird (and suboptimal, more contact surfaces for no good reason etc.)? After all, 4 wire is used to eliminate the resistance of the probes from the measurement of the DUTs resistance, without an actual extra DUT 4 wire is just meaningless.
...good flexible cable and I think its anti-burn (soldering iron protection).
Don't forget Frankie and his eBay store:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171162377470?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Generally any ohms measurement below 1 ohm is pretty much meaningless unless you're using a Kelvin setup. And again, it's not the resistance of the leads themselves (which is in the milliohms even with cheap leads), it's the contact resistance.
The "hard time" is not for touching two probes together, it's for saying "dude, these fluke probes are bullshit, they're like 0.5 ohms derp" and "bro, your probes are totally fake, the real ones are 0.1923282482 ohms herp" when clearly both measurements are bogus.
... a copy of The US Constitution !!! ... How wold I measure otherwise without knowing my rights
Don't forget Frankie and his eBay store:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171162377470?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I have a set of these on my FLuke 27/FM and I like them.
...[Poor quality probes]... cause the continuity buzzer on my non-latching meters (Brymen) to cut out, waver, and scratch simply by rubbing the probe tips together.
Any experience with Keysight probes? They sell a kit called U1168A/U1168B (seems to be the same?) that costs only half as much as a Fluke TLK287.
Probemaster now offers reasonable shipping rates to Europe. It used to be more than $100 but is now $26 for USPS Priority Mail. Not exactly cheap perhaps, but non-crazy at least.
If Probe Master are that much better, I need to try them. I've just been so turned off by their standard 8000 series probes. They look dildos, quite frankly, and just seem to be very big and bulky to the point that they'd actually block my view and make it difficult to get into tight spaces.
I rather like my Pomona probes. If Probe Master are that much better, I need to try them. I've just been so turned off by their standard 8000 series probes. They look dildos, quite frankly, and just seem to be very big and bulky to the point that they'd actually block my view and make it difficult to get into tight spaces. I don't understand why they can't just make normal sized probes.
The Pomonas disappoint. The tip coating, even after cleaning, doesn't give terribly reliable resistance readings. Worse, they cause the continuity buzzer on my non-latching meters (Amprobe AM-130 and Greenlee DM-820a, both made by Brymen) to cut out, waver, and scratch simply by rubbing the probe tips together. My Fluke 77-IV, with its latched continuity buzzer, can even be made to cut out from time to time. The silicone does give them a nice drape without kinks and tangles.
The same can be said about the Fluke TL175 that came with my Fluke 289, though. Very easy to make the latched buzzer drop out with those.