Thank you madires ! Yes thats an ST7735. Sorry mate but I dont understand "So you would have to reverse engineer the pinout and configure the firmware accordingly"
If you can explain it a bit more...
I can restore it to "factory" settings because I saved: 1 the original flash , 2 the eeprom and 3 the fuse settings , IF I can delete it or "put" the chip in programming mode.
BUT HOW ?
Thank you madires ! Yes thats an ST7735. Sorry mate but I dont understand "So you would have to reverse engineer the pinout and configure the firmware accordingly"
If you can explain it a bit more...
I can restore it to "factory" settings because I saved: 1 the original flash , 2 the eeprom and 3 the fuse settings , IF I can delete it or "put" the chip in programming mode.
BUT HOW ?
If you put wrong fuses maybe you need to rewrite chip with parallel programmer.
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Hey all. Did anybody ever compile a list comparing the different versions of kits (barebones vs completed, smd vs through-hole models, etc.)? I understand each vendor may have its own part-of-the-week in theirs.
Thanks.
Thanx perieanuo !
I can hook up directly to ATMEGA 328 OR to the board ISP interface from an LPT port ? And I can use the avrdude or avrdudes then ? Or I can use the USBASP USBISP AVR Programmer better ?
Or just spend a couple of bucks for a new AVR chip...
I will make it work even if I desolder the smd ATMEGA 328 with my hot air gun, put it on a breadboard and reprogram it with arduino or whatever. I want this sh.t to work although I ordered a new rotary one 328A.
But I dont know how to make his flash and eeprom and what fuses I must use for the 328b. I dont know what constants I must change before compiling the source. Maybe someone make a precompile hex for the 328b models. (-;
T3 s9014 is likely bad. Mine was bad and gave same symptom as you state. To check: before you start to unsolder the existing transistor run a ground from negative side of RED LED to ground. Doing this will create the ground that T3 should provide
Hope this is helpful
Fumio
I will make it work even if I desolder the smd ATMEGA 328 with my hot air gun, put it on a breadboard and reprogram it with arduino or whatever. I want this sh.t to work although I ordered a new rotary one 328A.
But I dont know how to make his flash and eeprom and what fuses I must use for the 328b. I dont know what constants I must change before compiling the source. Maybe someone make a precompile hex for the 328b models. (-;
Search I posted myself compiled 1.28 hex/eep for ay-at longtime ago.
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Hi guys, this is my first post here. Maybe a dumb question and maybe not. I want to buy one of those testers. Can you please give me some advice of which one is the best you can get today. What I mean is which one can be modded upgraded or whatever. I am kinda lost in these 170+ pages. I have seen that some of you ppl already made some modifications but I am lost anyway
So which one is the newest and what to look out for?
The AY-AT is the most interesting clone at the moment. If you want a tester with all hardware options you would have to build one yourself based on the ATmega644/1284 circuit.
Great... Ty for quick answer. Btw anyone made atmega644/1284 based tester and if so does the firmware exist or I should start from scratch?
Karl-Heinz's excellent documentation includes a circuit for the ATmega644/1284 and I've posted a PDF of my 644/1284 dev kit a while ago. Both firmwares (k & m) support the ATmega644/1284.
Karl-Heinz's excellent documentation includes a circuit for the ATmega644/1284 and I've posted a PDF of my 644/1284 dev kit a while ago. Both firmwares (k & m) support the ATmega644/1284.
Has anybody made any PCBs or a layout for a 644/1284 version available ? I have a bunch of 1284 chips.
What else you want to see on the DIP board? Lets call it like that. I have some experience with pcb making so i will look into it.
Edit: but hell its a nice looking board full SMD. Maybe it would be a blasphemy to modify it lol
What else you want to see on the DIP board?
Support for all the new fangled features would be nice. Needs a nice color LCD. I prefer the DIP package because it's so easy to fry the processor with a wayward charged cap, etc. and changing a socketed DIP is a lot easier than SMD reworking a SMD package. Plus, I have a pile of Mega128's in the DIP40 package.
It's like this... pcb is wide as DIP40, actualy a bit wider. It would look bad
but it is doable (draw the board from scratch)
Re: $20 LCR ESR Transistor checker project
« Reply #4383 on: January 19, 2018, 03:18:48 PM »
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T3 s9014 is likely bad. Mine was bad and gave same symptom as you state. To check: before you start to unsolder the existing transistor run a ground from negative side of RED LED to ground. Doing this will create the ground that T3 should provide
Hope this is helpful
Fumio
Thanx Fumio,
I see my board GM328B has q1 q2 q3 smd tranzistors Their values are: a19t , tl431a , 1am
When I power on the led is lighting..
Maybe the q3 is bad...
For the conversation about the new models and features, I have to say that a bigger screen will be much nicer and also the new features and better accuracy are always welcomed !
Is there any way to program a raw ATMEGA328P without an USPASP or equivalent programmer? I have several Arduinos available as well as a FTD1232 board.
No, even a bootloader has to be programmed first. BTW, Karl-Heinz modified Optiboot to program the EEPROM also, in case someone is interested in ATmega bootloaders.
Yes you can use Arduino to write the Arduino bootloader or the ay-at fw on the new chips. Search Arduino as isp
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Yes you can use Arduino to write the Arduino bootloader or the ay-at fw on the new chips. Search Arduino as isp
I ended up being lazy and just got a USBasp.
Has anyone else had issues with running a 20MHz crystal? I experienced really bad display corruption (missing/inforrect characters, random dots) and general flakiness after swapping the crystal and uploading the new firmware. I then swapped in a 16MHz crystal which seems to work fine.
I'm using 1.26M.
Yes you can use Arduino to write the Arduino bootloader or the ay-at fw on the new chips. Search Arduino as isp
I ended up being lazy and just got a USBasp.
Has anyone else had issues with running a 20MHz crystal? I experienced really bad display corruption (missing/inforrect characters, random dots) and general flakiness after swapping the crystal and uploading the new firmware. I then swapped in a 16MHz crystal which seems to work fine.
I'm using 1.26M.
Yes I thought it might have been from the long leads I soldered on for flashing but haven't had time to downgrade back to 16Mhz.
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