Can someone recommend a specific pre-made tester that I can just purchase now that has the latest firmware, or close. I really don't have the time to build from a kit and I don't want to have to download firmware etc. Just want to buy one and start using it. Color is nicer, but prefer more flexibility in features/accuracy over that. Mostly using for testing transistors, including JFETs and related (maybe an occasional germanium or darlington). Also ESR for caps, though I have other esr testers could be used so less important. Transistir the focus. thanks for any advice and/or link to something I can get now. I see TC1 and T6 and T7 on ebay, not clear which is later/better or if there are better choices.
Hello anyone,
I'd like to buy one of these Component Tester Identifier KIT DIY, but there are too many version and I'm bit confused
Could you please suggest me which one is the best ? Maybe with the best firmware ?
Thanks
Hi,
I just repaired two NB2L li-ion batteries from my Canon cam that weren't charging at all. OTOH, I'm tired to buy €€ 9V batteries, so I decided to give them a second chance with a 9V powered device. The NB2L are rated 7.4V and I have a spare charger.
The LCR tester was a good candidate. I did some measurements on mine, it detects a weak battery at 7.4V and works fine above this value. However 7.4V looks a bit high regarding the ver 1.12k user's manual that says 0.8V above 5.4. Any clue ?
So far so good ! The batteries are within the acceptable range. If the tester keeps working satisfactorily, I'll finally get rid of these medieval 9V batteries !
regards
What's with the vertical bar characters in the middle of the readings?
Sorry for the newb question.
I have had 3 of these, 2 bought a year ago and I just had another delivered today, and none of them work with an external 9v power supply. If I hook up a battery clip and connect external power via the battery clip it works. I thought this might have been an assembly or design fault that may be fixed in later runs but it's there with the new unit also.
What's possibly going on here that an external power supply plugged directly in won't work? And how do I fix it.
This is the tester I have
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GM328A-Component-Tester-Multifunctional-Meter-Graphic-Transistor-Tester-W1/352521940684?hash=item5213f1eecc:g:zy8AAOSwGD1b9TKZ:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true
I was looking at the github schematic. the same exact firmware for 28pin is used w/o any changes in the 40pin? (or maybe the better Qn, how many versions are there in the wild? I could see special version for specific LCDs, but for 40pin?)
Sorry for the newb question.
I have had 3 of these, 2 bought a year ago and I just had another delivered today, and none of them work with an external 9v power supply. If I hook up a battery clip and connect external power via the battery clip it works. I thought this might have been an assembly or design fault that may be fixed in later runs but it's there with the new unit also.
What's possibly going on here that an external power supply plugged directly in won't work? And how do I fix it.
This is the tester I have
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GM328A-Component-Tester-Multifunctional-Meter-Graphic-Transistor-Tester-W1/352521940684?hash=item5213f1eecc:g:zy8AAOSwGD1b9TKZ:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true
My first thoughts would be a problem with the polarity or second that something is wrong with the jack. My advice would be to test the polarity of the jack against the pins of the 9V battery connector (using the continuity function on your multimeter). These should essentially be a dead short between the respective jack and 9V connector pins.
Almost all barrel jacks are center positive.
Almost all barrel jacks are center positive.Unless you're in the audio world, unfortunately a lot of their stuff is center negative which is freaking annoying.
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