Still haven't tried to read the FW, though.
I tried to read it today but was protected.... It comes with 1.12K
Prefably socketed in case you fry your chip with a charged capacitor.
The testers with DIP28 sockets can best be seen from the back of the board if shown by the seller.
and this version can also be easily converted to Mega644 using an adapter and upgrade to the latest firmware!
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/$20-lcr-esr-transistor-checker-project/msg4890983/#msg4890983
Well, that's the end of that then! I sat down with the LCR-T4, a fresh 9V battery, three legs snipped off of a circuit under construction soldered together and a handful of components to calibrate it and see what it can do.
I peeled off the masking tape they ship it with only to find the Etch-a-Sketch Screen Blight you see below! It's a new one on me. Have you seen a mark like this before? It looks almost 3D, it has depth to it as you change your viewing angle.
Anyway, I attached the battery, shorted it out with the three legs and... Nothing! Removed the short, nothing again. Checked the battery, battery's good.
What a let down!
The supplier has refunded me so I suppose I'm a battery clip and a zif socket up. I'll check what I can with a multimeter, you never know.
Back to reading the thread & searching for obscure, backwater suppliers with new old stock I suppose 🤔
Thanks for the help, I'll pop back up if I find a proper looking unit. 🤞😎☮️
Definitely the new variant of the C..... Virus, I would quickly package it well and send it to the hazardous waste
Definitely the new variant of the C..... Virus, I would quickly package it well and send it to the hazardous waste
Strange, everything's been fine up to n... Aaaaargh! 😱
fpisi,try this firmware
Tested in
my GM328A tester "Nev version" and it works OK, so genuine mega 328Pcconfirmed. It came with 1.12K protected, so
I couldn't make a backup of the original FW. I think I remember the original FW had different options in the menu, but I'm not sure.
Now I'll try to upgrade it to 16 MHz, as I did with the rest of my units
Hi threat,
I wrote my problems in the transistor-tester fix threat
the desire from indman is to swing over in this threat
so voila
In some words,
blew up my T7 tester,
replaced the atmega32x to atmega644
built up your transistor replacement U4.
What happens
The tester starts with the introduction menue
<<<Component Tester>>>
<<<LCR-TC1 v1.43m>>>
then it is displayed for a short time
Testing....
Bat 3.9V VCC 4.98V
then >>>switching off
When I push the button
enable goes high (Pin3) ;
PD1 (Pin7) goes low;
PD2(Pin8) always High
as long as I see the introduction menue
Thats it...
I haven't manipulated the fuses until now.
Via microscope I could check the pinning of the 644, all good!
It seems to be having no powersupply for 644 via PD2
acerquax,I will repeat my question here, which you did not answer.
What programmer and software do you use to flash the ATMega644 firmware?
I have used my old TL 866 CS MiniPRO now from XGecu and the software coming with it, to program an ATMEGA 644.
The successor to the TL 866 CS will probably also do. See compatibility list in each case.
I checked it with several softwares
AVR Burn-o-mat
and
myAVR Prog tool
My programmer worked always perfect in different projects! (Arduino,esp32...)
acerquax, It was not out of curiosity that I asked you a question about the programmer and the software that you use.
For the AVR Burn-o-mat shell, you need to set and program the fuses state exactly as I showed in the screenshots below. Only after you have done everything as I showed - program the fuses and verify and read them to make sure that they are installed correctly - can you move on.
P.S The sequence of screenshots that were attached to the message does not match, but I think you can figure out the settings without any problems. Start by setting the Expert mode.
I am a bit further..
Flashed the fuses as suggested
Tester starts ok, but toggles between
Testing.....
Bat=3,98V Vcc=4,98V
and
Battery?
2 4593 mV
with some DUT
Testing.....
Bat=3,98V Vcc=4,98V
and
Battery?
1 3673 mV
Remove diode assembly DZ2 temporarily and turn the tester on again.
...oh man,
......after some trial and error attempts I noticed that in the battery?-modus
and
3 times pushing the start button
a select menue appears..afterwards one time pushing I can chance the issue
so I guess it works now!
Many thx for your patient indman
My next idea .....I will study your schematics , maybe I adapt an encoder switch or something like that.
P.S.: I let the diode assembly as it is?!!
...oh man,
......after some trial and error attempts I noticed that in the battery?-modus
and
3 times pushing the start button
P.S.: I let the diode assembly as it is?!!
To be honest, I didn’t understand anything from your last message? Could you explain in a simpler way after what actions did your tester start working?
I don’t understand why you need to press the Test button 3 times? Have you read the
madires manual on how to work correctly with m-firmware?
Where do I find the manual? Thx
I guess a small video would be better than 1000 words!!
Where do I find the manual? Thx
I guess a small video would be better than 1000 words!!
Not in this specific case.
This is one of the best - if not the best - manual I have ever seen.
Not in this specific case.
This is one of the best - if not the best - manual I have ever seen.
You're a little ahead of me! These are the words I wanted adress to
acerquax
Hi mates,
So, I have to realize, that the tester doesn't detect any DUT neither transistors nor any other device
after switching on the tester and>>> Testing.... appears.
It swings after a short periode of further time to>>>Battery?
I have read the manuals and could find out that all other features specified in the manuals are working!!
It swings after a short periode of further time to>>>Battery?
Have you tried with the SRV05-4 removed?
Hi,
what is the difference between "k" and "m" versions for the tester sw?
Where could I find the latest hex/eep versions for the t7 tester? Is it the 1.43m version?
Thx for ideas.
Hi,
what is the difference between "k" and "m" versions for the tester sw?
Where could I find the latest hex/eep versions for the t7 tester?
You probably didn't read the
Madires manual carefully?
It details the main differences between m-firmware and k-firmware.
Also in this manual there are links to sources where you can find the materials and firmware you need.
The best way to get the version you want is to build the firmware yourself, so you can customize the options you like and need. All it takes is some effort to learn how to compile. Even a child can do it.