@packetbob,
Nice write up of your experience and your success story. I like the simple platter you made for the little guy, neat
Is it possible you've mixed up the link to GM328x 16Mhz firmware? I believe that unit has monochrome LCD and ours is AY-AT unit with TFT Color LCD.
There is a case for the AY-AT on thingiverse; http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1633951
It's simple but a good fit and protects your tester form dust when not in use.
All credit goes to the designer
I guess its good for those with makerbot/3d printer but I tried to order it and they want $25.33
no thanks. Better and cheaper $6.88 to get
[this one] but do need to modify it a little like
[this]
Hi, friends! For a tester of DIY Kit "AY-AT" it is necessary to change in config_328.h line
#define LCD_RES PD4 on
#define LCD_RES PD0
According to the diagram of a tester the output 2 processors is connected to contact of RESET of the display.
That makes sense, since the frequency counter requires T0, which is PD4 in case of the ATmega328. I'll update the Clones file.
Some ST7735 displays will work if to leave a line without changes
#define LCD_RES PD4. But there are displays which will have only the white screen in case of switching on.
My friend who has the same tester faced such problem.
Then we should keep "#define LCD_RES PD0". If LCD_RES is set to PD4, which isn't connected to the LCD module, the pin doesn't contol anything, besides creating some additional heat in the bottom resistor of the frequency counter's input voltage divider. So setting PD0 would increase the run time of the battery
I have AY-AT_ST7735 modul tester TFT.
an information in forum latest firmware:
mega328_color_kit_AY-AT_ST7735_trendy_1.24m
and we've tried, okay
but I have not found .....
DS1820 tester
IR tester
DHT11 tester
if anyone has already tried, firmware with DS/IR/DHT11 tester....?
thank you
I bought an already made GM328R from eBay which works but looks like it was made by a drunken Boy Scout on a Friday afternoon - all the components are mis-aligned. Anyway it works. I want to upgrade so a few quick questions:
1. Will the new firmware that madires just linked to (vn 1.25m I think), work on the GM2328R?
2. I have some 20 MHz but no 16 MHz Xtals, can I fit a 20 MHz Xtal and use the new (or another) firmware or would you recommend 16 MHz?
3. I just bought a TL866A programmer so I'm new to it, it starts to read the ATmega328 and then comes up with "read error code 31"; is this because the AVR is locked?
4. I think I can reprogram by erasing, then load the data and eeprom areas (as Intel hex), and then set the fuses, right?
Thanks for any help in advance.
BTW, I'm a self-employed hardware / PCB designer. If someone sends me a schematic for the new circuit, I will design the PCB for the community.
1. Will the new firmware that madires just linked to (vn 1.25m I think), work on the GM2328R?
2. I have some 20 MHz but no 16 MHz Xtals, can I fit a 20 MHz Xtal and use the new (or another) firmware or would you recommend 16 MHz?
3. I just bought a TL866A programmer so I'm new to it, it starts to read the ATmega328 and then comes up with "read error code 31"; is this because the AVR is locked?
4. I think I can reprogram by erasing, then load the data and eeprom areas (as Intel hex), and then set the fuses, right?
Should work if it got a supported display (I'd guess it's a ST7565) and the 20MHz crystal is also fine with the m-firmware. Some clone vendors lock the MCU, which is plain stupid since the firmware is open source. And yes, you need to perform a "chip erase" to reset the lock bits.
I bought an already made GM328R from eBay which works but looks like it was made by a drunken Boy Scout on a Friday afternoon - all the components are mis-aligned. Anyway it works. I want to upgrade so a few quick questions:
1. Will the new firmware that madires just linked to (vn 1.25m I think), work on the GM2328R?
2. I have some 20 MHz but no 16 MHz Xtals, can I fit a 20 MHz Xtal and use the new (or another) firmware or would you recommend 16 MHz?
3. I just bought a TL866A programmer so I'm new to it, it starts to read the ATmega328 and then comes up with "read error code 31"; is this because the AVR is locked?
4. I think I can reprogram by erasing, then load the data and eeprom areas (as Intel hex), and then set the fuses, right?
Thanks for any help in advance.
BTW, I'm a self-employed hardware / PCB designer. If someone sends me a schematic for the new circuit, I will design the PCB for the community.
i have this programmer as you say use intel hex for the files
This is the picture with the correct fuse settings for the programmer.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zqacxby4ayngy2c/Fuses%20on%20TL866A.jpg?dl=0
I've posted a picture of mine, can someone please help me get the right hex files for the new vn m for a 20 MHz Xtal?
Thanks
I've posted a picture of mine, can someone please help me get the right hex files for the new vn m for a 20 MHz Xtal?
Thanks
I have two of these exact testers one original firmwre 8mhz crystal one 16 mhz and v2 firmware i will attach the firmware i used but not sure if it supports the 20mhz crystal maybe stj can advise as its his firmware files
the K firmware does not support 20MHz, the M (Madires) firmware does.
Thanks for all the help guys. I probably need to place a Digikey order in the next day or so so I've added some 16 MHz Xtals to the cart then I'll have 8, 16 and 20 MHz options.
Hi everyone,
A great forum! I purchased an AY-AT clone of this tester from
http://www.ebay.com/itm/182153844649 based on the recommendations here. It booted up fine after I put it together. I then did a dumb thing: I changed the frontcolor and it now doesn't display anything
I tried a few things, including setting the test to selftest mode, as suggested on the seller's the ebay site. But it was very hard to know what I was doing without the display:( My questions are 1) is there a way to reset the display settings on this thing, and 2) if not how can I get the display back?
Many thanks,
feng
Try this with unit off.
- Press and Hold for 2 to 3 seconds, unit should turn on and get into Menu.
- Rotate to Left (counter-clockwise) 4 Clicks
- Press down once
- Rotate Left few clicks until you see red
- Press down once to go to next color
- Press and Hold when done.
Only other way is to reflash eeprom.
Update: If above don't work, then try 5 clicks in step 2. The idea is you enter the Fontcolor in the dark.
sounds like the code needs a patch to prevent the background and forground from being set to the same value or even wihin a couple of points either way.
How are your experiences with the acryl case?
http://www.ebay.de/itm/112108340467?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Is the ZIF socket lever still acceptably usable?
I havnt got this case but i would modify it so you can get too the lever easily and also the smd test pads on the pcb.
See my post 2673, I've modified the case a little bit to acces the lever and the SMD pad.
You can make an longer handle to the lever, but I didn't like that.
I like the case when modified.
There is room for a 9 Volt battery.
Maybe I make an SPI interface in the case.