Mine has the same pin layout but with JP21 in place of JP1 and JP1 where JP2 is on your image. I assumed it was the same and installed my jumper on the 3.3V pins. Is this correct for ATMega328P?
On your USBASP the jumper must be set to +5V because the ATMega328 needs to be supplied with +5V programming voltage.
Thanks indman. So it is the reverse of the other USBasp's pins, which is fortunate as I installed the jumper on the 5V pins.
I erased my new ATMega328P and installed your 1.12k firmware. I then tried the new 328P in my GM328A, but there is no change - still I get the white screen. Something tells me I still have a hardware fault somewhere, unless I have not flashed the firmware to the new ATMega328P properly or it is incompatible.
how are the fuse bits set?
UltimateX,connect any working LED to the test pins, e.g. 1-3. After you press the Test button will this LED light up for a short time?
Thanks Snapper. Attached is the fuse bits tab.
Is there a way of loading/saving the fuse bits settings from/to a cfg file in XB?
Thanks indman. The test LED installed in the component DIP socket does not light or flicker at all. All that happens is the white screen appears while the encoder is pressed down, then disappears as soon as the encoder is let go.
Set the fuses as I showed in the screenshot.Then erase the crystal and write the firmware files again.Then by re-reading make sure that the fuses are written correctly as I showed you.
I set the fuse bits as you showed, wrote out the full firmware, then read it back into the EB but it reverts to the fuse bits I showed in my previous image (attached).
UltimateX,it means that the program cannot write the set values correctly. But even with the fuses as you showed, the program should start normally and the display should show a picture.
Can you create a short video of how your tester turns on? Sometimes it helps to understand and identify the problem more quickly.
Okay, I got the fuse bits to set what you showed but when I read it back it keeps changing the second fuse bit (High Fuse) from D9 to DF?? I tried it in the GM328A but it still does nothing useful.
I will make a short video of the fault.
Thanks indman.
3gp file made of fault. Please remove ".txt" to play file.
Looks like the program doesn't run at all. Maybe try changing the fuses to use internal clock to check this. Or replace the quartz (I'd recommend going for 16 MHz).
3gp file made of fault.
There is no correct controller start. In order to go further in the troubleshooting process you must first make sure that the firmware and fuses are correctly written and read into the ATMega328! I have not used ExtremeBurner, so it's hard for me to advise you. Try other programming shells such as AVRDudesshell2019 or AVRDudess.
Thanks both. I will first try AVRDudesshell2019 to see if that helps to write the fuses reliably. I will come back with the result.
Okay, I couldn't find a AVRDudesshell2019, so I just installed AVRDUDESS 2.14. It successfully and reliably sets the fuse bits - I can set and read them as you showed now. However, the fault still persists even with the fuse bits set as you showed. How do I change the fuses to try to use the internal clock rather than the crystal?
Try setting E2 for LOWFUSE instead of F7. This is an internal 8MHz oscillator. Do not change the other fuses.
Also show me a screenshot of the AVRDudess 2.14 window after you write the firmware files, I am interested in the messages that appear in the black box at the bottom of the window.
Which firmware version did you want me to install on the blank 328P? The copy of the firmware from the original 328P or the 1.12k firmware you posted?
Better that firmware I gave you. Although the firmware you read from the original ATMega328 practically repeats it.
I used the original firmware (not sure which version it is) - it now works! Thank you hapless and indman!
So I need to replace the original 8MHz crystal with an 8 or 16MHz crystal oscillator, correct? Do you think I can upgrade to the latest firmware, i.e. 1.49m?
So I need to replace the original 8MHz crystal with an 8 or 16MHz crystal oscillator, correct? Do you think I can upgrade to the latest firmware, i.e. 1.49m?
Try first to unsolder the original crystal, clean its legs well and solder it back. Don't forget to return F7 for the external quartz.
I think you do not need to update the firmware, you need to learn how to work with this firmware, it is also quite functional and stable, provided that you have no hardware problems.
Thanks indman. I will try this now...
If I have to replace the crystal, is there a benefit to replacing the 8MHz crystal with a 16MHz crystal?
If I have to replace the crystal, is there a benefit to replacing the 8MHz crystal with a 16MHz crystal?
Yes, there are, but not so global. When replacing the crystal at 16MHz you will need a new author's firmware for this frequency. You will find the details in the author's manuals.