One went a couple of weeks ago for $66, new in box with everything. Serial number in the 400s so probably a good one.
It appears to even have its original battery (thankfully not installed). Amazing.
I did snipe on it but my bid came in third. Oh, well. There's plenty of 8060As around but I don't know if there'll ever be another one like that.
One went a couple of weeks ago for $66, new in box with everything. Serial number in the 400s so probably a good one.
It works perfectly. And not a scratch on it.
One went a couple of weeks ago for $66, new in box with everything. Serial number in the 400s so probably a good one.
It works perfectly. And not a scratch on it.
So it
was you.
I'm not going to complain, at least it's in the family.
(leave it to me in your will.
)
I just couldn't let a new-in-box 8060A get away. It will have an easy life along with a few other NIB multimeters I've acquired.
Not sure about the will, I was planning to take this DMM, my Tek 465, and a set of Wiha screwdrivers with me when I go...
Awesome snag Mr. ModemHead!
fwiw watch out for pyramid robbers and the Use By Date on the battery is...?
If it's the original supplied battery, subtracting 3 years? might hint at when the meter was made and shipped from Fluke
$66 is a darn good price for that, I don't expect to see another NIB 8060A any time soon.
I would have bid it to $120 if I lived in the USA.
(heads over to TEA thread for therapy)
From the serial number I'd guess it was made a year or two before mine, so ... around 1988.
From the serial number I'd guess it was made a year or two before mine, so ... around 1988.
Good guess. The date code on the Fluke RMS converter is 8649, so the unit was probably manufactured in early 1987. The board rev is "H". The battery was made long before they started putting use-by dates on them. It is a nasty corroded mess on the back side. It's an interesting relic, but I won't be keeping it in the box for sure. The operator's guide is already stained a bit.
Great score!
I didn't know the value of a Fluke until I did my research and also learned from venerable Dave here. I got a Fluke 87 and haven't looked back!! I love vintage stuff like this too though!!
Mike
...The date code on the Fluke RMS converter is 8649, so the unit was probably manufactured in early 1987. The board rev is "H".
If you get around to popping the hood again, it would be interesting what brand or no name capacitors are in there, and their unused 'time capsule' condition
Hopefully no leakage and meter in perfect spec like my recent ex R+D 8060A acquire noted earlier above, bashed but not beaten
which was covered with multiple calibration stickers and unbelievably
never opened ! i.e. no cracked posts
when I opened it up, with the original powdered plastic on the 3 screws
and yes the rear rubber feet had turned to runny road tar
LOL, maybe the 'CAL lab' used the 8060A as THE reference to check their gear was up to speed,
and just slapped 'feel good' cal stickers on the 8060A without opening it to adjust anything
...lining their pockets with no brainer easy cash
yup.
All functions perfect, spot on with dc reference, and DB works, which is why I wanted it.
Probably catch up in the studios this holiday with it.
...All functions perfect, spot on with dc reference, and DB works...
IIRC yours had some AC? dramas, did you work out the exact problem
or a good TLC, re-work/touchup and working the switches got it going again?
I'm in no hurry to do an 8060A recap, as both meters appear and test ok for now
but if/when I have to
(hopefully NEVER, or later) is there any value in having the replacement cap bodies not quite flush to the board
allowing a small "IPA Friendly" space between the board and cap body?
Advantages as I see them:
Easy to spot a leak or spew
Convenient to carefully spray or encourage some IPA under there, keeping the board free of unwanted fine dust and moisture trails
Some component leg flashing wouldn't hurt some of the guys here either
One went a couple of weeks ago for $66, new in box with everything. Serial number in the 400s so probably a good one.
It works perfectly. And not a scratch on it.
good lord!
pack that thing in nitrogen immediately!
allowing a small "IPA Friendly" space between the board and cap body?
When I recapped my 8060A, one (or more) capacitors were under the display assembly which constrained the maximum height.
I received this week an 8060a with original probes and case, and a blue IBM with crappy probes, no case.
I have a free shipping label to ship back the one I got a few weeks ago with no AC function, and a display with some segment blackening beginning.
Opened the Fluke brand and saw no schmoo around capacitors that I could spot with the top only off.
Both dead on with my little dc reference, self tests and switch tests clean, and most importantly, the DB function working.
Displays are like new.
Interesting that IBM has a large "DB" on the function switch label.
I got cases with my Flukes, but none with the IBM. Maybe because it was in a field service kit? Something to consider.
My second fluke and pouch smells wicked musty . I'm going to try a short session with my ozone generator.
Now need to research the capacitor lists, although I'm putting these in service for now.
I'll update any interesting stuff if I go for the cap replacement.
More 8060A pimp up work:
My new old 'vintage green' Fluke I scored last week (with 100% CAL lab specs!
) had no kickstand, perished rubber feet, and no leads...
i.e. it looked pretty ordinary in it's no-frills state, and since I had a knackered Brymen meter that the seller replaced asap, kindly letting me keep the faulty one, I got thinking...
Here's the 'Brymenized' Fluke 8060A that's now ready for serious work, bump friendly, and looking good in 2017
FWIW: If you seal it in a sandwich bag and tape off the leads, you get an improvised
"Fluke 8060A-EX Intrinsically Safe Multimeter" useable in underground mines and other expl0sive environments,
...but more important is the ability to survive a tool bag drop in a mate's swimming pool after work, during 'Happy Friday' drinks
slabs
It's a Fluke...........it
must be
YELLOW.
Old... when I was in the US Navy in the early 1970s we used some Fluke differential voltmeters with decade switches and null meters. Cumbersome but very accurate.
I am learning english through reading this thread ,but it is hard to find this thread in "Test Equipment" group
, so I have to post these words . hope somebody to help me
hello, anybody have a picture of the 300v version of the 8060a? i never have seen any. unless the exterior labels be the same in both 1000v and 300v (i doubt it), if yes how to know which is which?
best regards
Pio
hello, anybody have a picture of the 300v version of the 8060a? i never have seen any. unless the exterior labels be the same in both 1000v and 300v (i doubt it), if yes how to know which is which?
In 1990, the "CAT standards" (Measurement Categories per IEC 61010-1) for meters were released. The Fluke 8060A can only withstand 300V on its resistance ranges, so it can only meet CAT I 300V. To qualify for a "CAT I" label, the voltage ranges were reduced to 300V for both DC and AC. Otherwise, I don't think the meter was changed: it is no safer than the unmodified 8060A.
It can be recognized by two differences from the normal model: the presence of "CAT I" below and to the right of the red jack, and the highest voltage range is marked "300V \$ \simeq \$ " instead of the normal "1000V DC / 750V AC". In addition, the maximal voltage limits printed underneath the jacks are lower (300V MAX from common to earth instead of 500V, and 300V \$ \simeq \$ from red to common instead of 1000V DC / 750V AC MAX).
Here's a picture:
https://cache.osta.ee/iv2/auctions/1_9_30853067.jpg
The Fluke 8060A can only withstand 300V on its resistance ranges
My copy of the manual says
"Overload protection: 500V DC or RMS AC" for the resistance ranges.
It also says things like this for the voltage ranges:
"Overload protection: 1000V DC or peak AC continuous, 20 seconds maximum on 200mV and 2V ranges above 300V DC or RMS AC"
Some issues of the manual did contain misprints. But I think you are right that it was intended to have 500V peak protection on Ohms, as that was advertised. The copy you can download from fluke.com does say 300V:
http://assets.fluke.com/manuals/8060a___imeng0300.pdf