So I am digging into the S38B. Nope, not TE, so I won't post more than this here, lest I incur some denizen-of-the-thread wrath...
Here it is, out of the packing box. Manufactured, circa 1953:
That smear at the bottom of the chassis is the shellac used to secure a label. That's also where the isolation transformer will be mounted when I get to that step. The smear will be gone before I finish cleaning the top side tomorrow. Then I flip it over and start working underneath. That will involve mostly removing dirt while I inspect the wiring and parts I hope not to replace. Some guys actually pressure wash stuff like this, others use a dishwasher. Not my cup of tea.
I don't see a power transformer which tells me immediately that's a series string receiver. I'll bet the audio output tube number starts with "50" and the rectifier starts with "35". The metal tubes probably start with "6" or "12" but utilize a split filament. And inline with the tube filaments probably a good sized power resistor. The tube filaments will add up to something less than 110VAC and the power resistor to make up the balance equaling 110VAC.
Given that it's a series string receiver one side of the AC line will be tied directly to the chassis. And I'll bet the line cord is still non-polarized. An isolation transformer is MANDATORY in order to safely work on that receiver. Depending on which way you plug in the line cord there will be 120VAC on the chassis unless an isolation transformer is used.
Edit while I go......pulled up the schematic. Confirmed, series string receiver with one side of the AC line tied to chassis.
Also, you must make absolutely certain upon reassembly that no metal portions of the chassis are exposed on the cabinet which could shock the user. (except the antenna terminals which SHOULD be isolated)
Personally I hate that type of design because of the dangers but it was a cheap way to avoid the use of an expensive power transformer.
Yup, the S38 is a death trap.
Although cabinet is isolated from the case, as are the switches and antenna input, it is still way too easy to kill someone or release the smoke by plugging it in wrong. I am installing an isolation transformer (will be mounted on that blank spot on the chassis), inline fuse, and polarized plug (overkill?
of course) before I power it up. Even then, first power up will involve an external isolation transformer, you know, just in case I screwed something up.
And yup, all the paper and electrolytic caps will be replaced. I have the paper replacements on hand and a multi-section electrolytic on the way. It doesn't look like I have to restring the dials but I have the proper cord if I do. That will probably be the most difficult task on the list.