That looks good. Can you tell me which diodes you used? Do they have to be 100V - Shottky - diodes? To me, 100V reverse voltage seems very high with 7.5V output voltage. I have several shottky diodes here, but all with a lower reverse voltage.
I would have to order them first, which is not worth the shipping costs.
Temperatures of >90°C at room temperature and opened device after a few minutes seems too high to me. In summer and when the unit is closed, it is probably much higher.
I used MBR10100 diodes in the TO220 package, which I had in stock, probably others in a similar package can be used to dissipate more heat and not heat the board. I hung a small radiator on the D5, now no place is heated more than 50°C. I believe that any Schottky diodes from 30V and a current of 3A in the TO220 package will do.
I used MBR10100 diodes in the TO220 package, which I had in stock, probably others in a similar package can be used to dissipate more heat and not heat the board. I hung a small radiator on the D5, now no place is heated more than 50°C. I believe that any Schottky diodes from 30V and a current of 3A in the TO220 package will do.
+1 i did it too with 58 max temp.
I think I will equip the oscilloscope with a linear power supply for the analogue part. Whether I will then have less interference on the signals or not remains to be seen.
I'm planning a 30VA, 2x 12Vac toroidal transformer, bridge rectifier and +-8V fixed voltage regulator, so one 7808 and 7908 each.
I will generate the 5V needed for the digital part with a buck converter, which I will supply directly from the first electrolytic capacitor after the rectifier via an LC filter. The TR output that is still needed I want to build 1 to 1 according to the original circuit diagram.
My main concern is reliability, so if the noise level drops, I would of course like that.
In addition, the much heavier weight would make the unit more stable, as it constantly slips when I even touch the mains cable or press a button.
The original power supply doesn't seem to be the most reliable to me, apart from the fact that the cheap Chinese power supplies usually don't last very long anyway.
The alteration of the power supply does not provide noticeable advantages in terms of noise relative to the original power supply modified by me, but it will allow galvanically decoupling the device from the mains. Enough 1 transformer with separate windings ~ 2x9V and ~ 12V. To power the analog part, a diode bridge and two capacitors 2200 μF 16V are sufficient, stabilizers 7805 and 7905 are installed on the board and additional stabilization is not required. You can supply voltage rectified and smoothed by capacitors from 2x9V to 2x18V. I powered the digital part from the power bank through the USB connector. Current 1A at 5V and 0.13A at ± 9V. The transformer is better to take R-CORE, it has less capacitance between the primary and secondary windings.
Currently, I limit the power completely to batteries.
Good luck!
As we all know, BMP format wastes a lot of space.
Everytime I wanted to share a picture I had to convert it manually - got really tired of it!
So I cross-compiled
bmp2png. Required some fighting but after a while I got it running.
Then I made a new mod package:
bmp2png.
It automatically finds and converts any screenshots.
Original files are deleted after conversion, new ones only take 12KB,
finally in a proper format ready to be uploaded anywhere.
Just wait 5 seconds after the "saving" screen goes out to ensure the file was converted.
Everything works great
Waiting for screen recording
Is it possible to do so?
And watch movies from a flash drive
link is dead at the moment
New official release:
2022.11.14.
Bt it's actually the same as the current 2022.10.28.
Now that's funny
. I guess releasing the same load multiple times fits well with their strategy of refusing to publish any release notes.
I just bought a DSO2D15 and the USB ports don't work. I tried to do the USB Fix update but the USB stick won't stay connected long enough for it to see the update file.
I just need this for audio work. Testing stereo amplifiers etc. When I return it to Amazon, what do you guys recommend instead around the same price point?
I'd like to have the frequency, RMS and pk-pk value displayed on the screen like this one can at the bottom. A math function to calculate power in watts at 8 Ohms from the RMS voltage in realtime and a good x/y Lissajous mode would be nice too
Here's the versions it came with:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Audio/i-cDpRHmz/0/c54a99d6/X3/20221115_070357-X3.jpgAnd a short video of what it's doing when I insert the USB stick:
https://mmanolio.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Audio/i-JdxGgTJ/AThank you!
--Mark--
Is it in FAT32 format? It does that when formatted as ntfs/exfat etc.
Is it in FAT32 format? It does that when formatted as ntfs/exfat etc.
I think so but I'll double-check. The computer won't connect to the rear port either. The app and the drivers are installed.
From what I've read on here about these, I think I'm going to return it anyway.
Any suggestions for a better quality replacement for similar or not too much more money?
Any suggestions for a better quality replacement for similar or not too much more money?
The Siglent SDS1202X-E is going for $339. !0x the scope keeping quality and usability in mind, but it does not have the FG built in.
These little Hanteks have very little to compare to them if you look at teh specs and the price. It's just a real shame they are such little dogs. In reality the only thing they have going for them is DavidAlfa. Hantek should be paying him a handsome salary. If it weren't for his efforts they'd get all their junk back.
Any suggestions for a better quality replacement for similar or not too much more money?
The Siglent SDS1202X-E is going for $339. !0x the scope keeping quality and usability in mind, but it does not have the FG built in.
These little Hanteks have very little to compare to them if you look at teh specs and the price. It's just a real shame they are such little dogs. In reality the only thing they have going for them is DavidAlfa. Hantek should be paying him a handsome salary. If it weren't for his efforts they'd get all their junk back.
Thank you Bill. That Siglent is currently on sale for $287.10 on Amazon! I can do without the built-in generator although that was convenient.
Agreed!!
I have tried another solution and am satisfied with the result. I have attached a 5V fan with reduced 3.3V operating voltage with cable ties to the shielding plate of the motherboard, which blows directly onto the low voltage side of the power supply. Now, with the FLIR camera, I no longer see any components that heat up above 55°C.
Because of interference signals I have led the +-8V - lines through 2 ferrite rings (one at the power supply and one directly in front of the plug at the main board) and provided the outputs of all 3 voltages directly at the output of the power supply with 100nF - ceramic capacitors. Except for a certain background noise, all disturbing spikes have now disappeared. (Before, I could always see clear, individual needle spikes on the noise, sometimes with 3-4 times the amplitude of the noise).
It was already clear to me that this noise could not be eliminated; I already have two other Hantek devices. A PC DSO and a DSO multimeter with the same problems. I always hoped that the next (and more expensive) one would not have these problems.
In the meantime, I know what to expect from Hantek.