At Banggood, they call it Hiland DIY M12864 Kit
I preferred this version because it has a nice case and it is faster compared to the latest AY-AT
Attached you can find the m-firmware 1.29 compiled for that hardware (8MHz and 16MHz)
I enabled also the servo function that I use frequently
That's the one I got many moons ago. Thanks for the updated files, Mauro.
Kudos to madires for the amazing effort coding this firmware
Please let me know if it will work on your unit.
Are you currently running the k or m firmware?
Sometimes I think that most of the people that bought this tester don't know they can load 2 different firmware...
Mauro
I've been running the k firmware that came with the unit. I didn't have extra 328 ICs at the time, but have gotten some since then. So, now I can try newer m and k, as well as upgrade the crystal, while still having the original IC as a backup.
Don't forget the feses... Most of the time it is the cause of the failed upgrade of this devices.
I had to erase my original IC because it was read protected...
Mauro
Ps: Hi bitseeker!!! Din't noticed it was you. Thank you for your contribution to the forum and the TEA group...
I'm becoming a member
Thanks for the fuse reminder. I think I marked a couple of prior posts about them so I'll be sure to get the right ones. Of course, when using the TL866, it's also important to remember which way to set them for "on". It's kind of upside-down.
You're always welcome at the TEA party!
And if you create the short circuit after the cap measurement before running the self adjustment? The short circuit will trigger the main menu. Simply keep the probes shorted and run the self adjustment
I did the same thing on the LCR-T4-H and the AY-AT DIY Kits, if it is measured in capacitor three times, it enters the menu and autotest is selected, it does not detect the short circuit or it gave error.
The way you comment if it works:
1.- Measure the capacitor three times.
2.- Remove the capacitor, short circuit and make a fourth measurement.
3.- From the menu that appears the autotest is selected and the process is done perfectly.
Thanks Madires.
A greeting.
I got the same issue with one or two testers from time to time. It's already on my to-do list (with a question mark). Looks like I have to find the cause of this problem now.
Found it
Please add in probes.c in function ShortedProbes() just below
UpdateProbes(Probe1, Probe2, 0); /* update probes */
following:
ADC_DDR = 0; /* set ADC port to HiZ */
Found it Please add in probes.c in function ShortedProbes() just below
UpdateProbes(Probe1, Probe2, 0); /* update probes */
following:
ADC_DDR = 0; /* set ADC port to HiZ */
Line added to probes.c and perfectly working the autotest on both the LCR-T4-H and the AY-AT Diy Kit.
Checked with several capacitor measurements before, entering the menu, exiting, with the short before and after selecting the autotest, and no fault.
Many thanks Madires.
Having an issue with a AY-AT kit. It does not want to stay powered on after pressing the encoder down. If I keep it held down, it works fine, but cannot be used (it shows menu, does test but cannot select anything while holding encoder down). I've replaced the transistors 9014 x2, 9012 on the left side of the board thinking maybe a transistor was bad, but no help. I've replaced the LED, no help. Changed the software, no help. Not too sure exactly where I should be focusing my attention. It is obviously not doing something involving getting the transistors to hold the on state, which I guess should be done via one of the atmega pins going low(?) after pressing the button to keep it on then high when it shuts off? That is just a complete guess based on pretty much nothing, But I'm not 100% sure of what to look for exactly. I could probably figure it out if I gave it some more time, but I figured I would ask in case someone else has experienced this and already knows the fix, save myself some time.
I don't think I broke anything putting it all together, I did lose the original LED though and I read through the thread and found it is important, however, I tried shorting and replacing it with a couple different LEDs with no help. Any assistance is appreciated. Thanks!
ok, I have hunted through this tread over and over for the settings to compile the m-firmware (1.29 preferred) for the AY-AT. When I try to use the search feature for AY-AT it tells me there are no matches. I have tried to read through the last two years of posts but I am missing it. can someone point me to the correct post or give me the correct compiled files, I have the 16mhz crystal installed other than that standard unit. Thanks
ok, I have hunted through this tread over and over for the settings to compile the m-firmware (1.29 preferred) for the AY-AT. When I try to use the search feature for AY-AT it tells me there are no matches. I have tried to read through the last two years of posts but I am missing it. can someone point me to the correct post or give me the correct compiled files, I have the 16mhz crystal installed other than that standard unit. Thanks
So do you want to compile the firmware or do you just want the firmware? Search for "winavr" and a bunch of info about compiling should come up. Try searching for the term firmware or compile and a bunch more information should be found easily. Like
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/$20-lcr-esr-transistor-checker-project/msg1011926/?topicseen#msg1011926 Searching should give you all you need. It just isn't called AY-AT anywhere on the files you need. For the AY-AT you want the "mega328_color_kit" version of the firmware for the source in the "trunk" folder. for the Markus firmware you have to modify some of the .h files like config.h, config_328.h and possibly makefile to suite your AY-AT.
Pro Tip, if you can't search on the forum, goto google and type "inurl:eevblog.com/forum/testgear/$20-lcr-esr-transistor-checker-project/" And then your search term, like AY-AT. That will give you a million times better results and not be as restricted as the forum search which doesn't index ay-at as a term.
Hopefully that helps.
-edit-
just reread what you wrote and were looking for settings. Still, try the google tip and you will find more relevant results.
That is for the m12864 model, which I do have one of these and have already downloaded this firmware. My problem is I need it for the AY-AT model, different circuit overall and lcd controller especially. Thanks for the information though.
Oh, you're right. My bad. I read AY-AT in your post, but my visual memory still went for the m12864 since they look similar (though not identical with the screw terminals, etc.). Well, glad you have an m12864 as well.
nitroburn - I could go either way, I do know how to compile it, but not sure what settings in what file needs to be changed/set. If someone already has the firmware compiled for this model, AY-AT or m328 color kit, I would appreciate being able to just download it, would save me a step or two. What I was searching for is the settings for the m-firmware files for this model. I have already found the k-firmware files for both of my testers so am good there, I do have a bunch of mega328p's already and wanted to test both firmware version in each model, see which one I liked. Thanks for all the help so far.
Edit: was reading another post and found the readme and clone files with the setting in it. so I think I can figure it out from here. Thanks for the help.
AY-AT 16MHz
I think I posted the 1.28m firmware around April 25th (8MHz)
.
nitroburn - I could go either way, I do know how to compile it, but not sure what settings in what file needs to be changed/set. If someone already has the firmware compiled for this model, AY-AT or m328 color kit, I would appreciate being able to just download it, would save me a step or two. What I was searching for is the settings for the m-firmware files for this model. I have already found the k-firmware files for both of my testers so am good there, I do have a bunch of mega328p's already and wanted to test both firmware version in each model, see which one I liked. Thanks for all the help so far.
Edit: was reading another post and found the readme and clone files with the setting in it. so I think I can figure it out from here. Thanks for the help.
Most of everything but the display is default. Don't think there was really anything but the screen I had to change. The screen settings are somewhere in this thread but likely could be figured out from the colour kit firmware settings on the trunk software. At least with my AY-AT, but in case i'm wrong, here are some files specific to the AY-AT that might give you a clue as to the settings and also some firmware predone.
ok, I have hunted through this tread over and over for the settings to compile the m-firmware (1.29 preferred) for the AY-AT. When I try to use the search feature for AY-AT it tells me there are no matches. I have tried to read through the last two years of posts but I am missing it. can someone point me to the correct post or give me the correct compiled files, I have the 16mhz crystal installed other than that standard unit. Thanks
AY-AT Diy Kit Firmware M v1.29m + English + VEXT + Xtal 16MHZ + Check Rotary Encoder + PWM Plus + Fix Autotest.
A greeting.
P.S. Use WinRAR to decompress.
Having an issue with a AY-AT kit. It does not want to stay powered on after pressing the encoder down. If I keep it held down, it works fine, but cannot be used (it shows menu, does test but cannot select anything while holding encoder down). I've replaced the transistors 9014 x2, 9012 on the left side of the board thinking maybe a transistor was bad, but no help. I've replaced the LED, no help. Changed the software, no help. Not too sure exactly where I should be focusing my attention. It is obviously not doing something involving getting the transistors to hold the on state, which I guess should be done via one of the atmega pins going low(?) after pressing the button to keep it on then high when it shuts off? That is just a complete guess based on pretty much nothing, But I'm not 100% sure of what to look for exactly. I could probably figure it out if I gave it some more time, but I figured I would ask in case someone else has experienced this and already knows the fix, save myself some time.
I don't think I broke anything putting it all together, I did lose the original LED though and I read through the thread and found it is important, however, I tried shorting and replacing it with a couple different LEDs with no help. Any assistance is appreciated. Thanks!
It is not impossible to receive an ATMega that has problems with one port or even one pin. It would be easiest just to try another. Last I checked, pin 12 (PD6) was controlling the on/off state on 328s, so you may want to see what kind of voltages you're getting around the 27k resistors when the tester is off and when the button is pressed.
Settings for a few tester clones are listed in the "Clones" file. If you find any errors or if you've figured out the settings for a clone not listed yet, please let me know. The idea is to help other users by adding settings for all clones.
Having an issue with a AY-AT kit. It does not want to stay powered on after pressing the encoder down. If I keep it held down, it works fine, but cannot be used (it shows menu, does test but cannot select anything while holding encoder down). I've replaced the transistors 9014 x2, 9012 on the left side of the board thinking maybe a transistor was bad, but no help. I've replaced the LED, no help. Changed the software, no help. Not too sure exactly where I should be focusing my attention. It is obviously not doing something involving getting the transistors to hold the on state, which I guess should be done via one of the atmega pins going low(?) after pressing the button to keep it on then high when it shuts off? That is just a complete guess based on pretty much nothing, But I'm not 100% sure of what to look for exactly. I could probably figure it out if I gave it some more time, but I figured I would ask in case someone else has experienced this and already knows the fix, save myself some time.
I don't think I broke anything putting it all together, I did lose the original LED though and I read through the thread and found it is important, however, I tried shorting and replacing it with a couple different LEDs with no help. Any assistance is appreciated. Thanks!
As hapless already suggested, check PD6 (should be 5V when powered on). Also check the circuit around T3. The type of LED isn't important, only that there's one. I remember a few cases of the PNP having a too low hFE.
Has someone already tested (or seen) this Component Tester?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-DIY-Transistor-Tester-LCR-Capacitance-ESR-meter-Frequency-PWM-Generator-/191869802386
It is available as Kit or already assembled version.
Hi everyone I'm new here... I burn my first module the module above.. I bought another and tried to clone the ic.. but I think is lock I have tried all firmware that you guys provide in the post so far non works. I found one in YouTube but it was Russian and I don understand... Anyone care to help or have the firmware... I'll be very thankful if you share it....
Thanks