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Test Equipment / Re: Siglent Bench DMMs SDM3065X, SDM3055 and SDM3045X
« Last post by rolfdegen on Today at 01:29:47 pm »
Hallo friens of electronics
Today I got my new Siglent SDM3055. It works very well and fits well with my Siglent SPD3303x-E power supply. To check the SDM3055 I purchased an AD584-M voltage reference. The reference chip is an AD584 KH. This has an accuracy of 15 ppm/°C and 0.005%V. In the packaging was a current calibration document from March 2024  :-+ I let the SDM3055 and AD584 warm up for 1/2 hour and then took voltage measurements.

Measuring station


I compared the SDM3055 to my UNI-T UT181A with 60,000 counts. These are the results:

SDM3055 (Filter off)
2.5V  ==>  2.4995V
5.0V  ==>  5.0014V
7.5V  ==>  7.4987V
10.0V ==> 10.0001V

UNI-T UT181A
2.5V  ==>  2.5001V
5.0V  ==>  5.0025V
7.5V  ==>  7.500V
10.0V ==> 10.000V

What is Filter ON/OFF function ?

My Evaluation:

Positive
Small case
Large colored display

Negative
Loud case fan (I will convert it after the warranty period)


2
Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff / Re: Help with DIY guitar pedal
« Last post by moffy on Today at 01:29:39 pm »
If I had that given to me, I would desolder everything and start again, if that was at all possible.
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Hi - Looking for a toroidal coil winder and a bobbin winder - not worried about how old it is or hand / motor driven either fine.

regards
Tim
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Mechanical & Automation Engineering / Re: Paint Bubbles On Snowblower
« Last post by BrokenYugo on Today at 01:26:07 pm »
I'd guess bad prep, rust under the paint type issues.
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A pleasure to hear from you   ;)

Couple of critical questions:

1) is the "perfect" situation that both motors equally share the load at all times and respond identically?


The motors should share the load but this does not need to be exactly matched. They are not now with my current control method.

Quote

2) How Dynamic is the system. Ie if you applied full torque or full load, what is the maximum rate of change of rotational speed


Well the motors themselves will accelerate fast. So fast that they can trip out due to the shock to the system that generates some fault that the drive reacts to. The torque slope starts out at default of 10'000 which is 0-max in 0.1s, it can be increased 2'000'000'000, if anything I go down from 10'000 . obviously once loaded the acceleration will depend on the load.

Quote

The answers will dominate what the best control architecture is!

If we assume the answer to 1) is YES (50:50 share is ideal) and the answer to 2) is say 1 second to reach max speed from zero speed

then it's clearly going to be best and easiest to do external speed control, ie to calculate a total torque value, then just split this 50:50 and send out that half torque command to each motor, and you'll need to be able to do this at between 10 and 20 times a second in order to maintain sufficient control bandwidth


This is what I currently do and well it sounds OK when running but updating every 18ms it's you can hear it wobble. The test rig is inherently very wobbly and certainly a worse case scenario (by accident haha). If I increase the update speed it does not necessarily make it better. I can err on the rapid updates with fast change rates, but this can just get silly as really I'm at the point of updating a system that does not have the finesse so fast that a human can't hear it not working right. Alternatively I update less frequently so that the sound of it changing speed is maybe accepted as it deals with a load change at a slower rate. if the load was to be changing as it gets to the new settling torque then maybe that would combine to a smooth ride but the load will be totally unknown and believe it or not 1000 steps of torque are not enough and my simulated 2000 steps still not enough.

Quote

There are other options which could be possible but which very much depend on the system dynamics, for example putting both in local speed control mode, but calibrating the PIDs differently to avoid detructive interference (you can have one motor doing all the P and one doing all the I for example)

The other question is what is fundamental oscialtion frequency of the system, ie you say the drives are "elastic", what is the natural frequency of this and will you control system operate above or below it (it really can't operate IN this zone!)  Now if the load is varriable, then that no-go control bandwidth zone can be quite wide, so care will be required. For most mechanical systems, it's generally preffered to be above the natural frequency as normally things get "less stiff with time / condition / load" etc

The final question is

"How critical is the speed control accuracy and convergence"  Ie, At what point does it actually matter that the speed is "wrong"?  If you're making a machine to stir custard, then clearly, you've probably got a lot of tollerance to varriable speed, but a system to drive an elevator full of people, less tollerance.  As you know the application, you can make some qualified estimation of the errorband/deadband that your system can tollerate, and this will drive the mechanical and software/controls architecture as appropriate...


Ideally each motors torque should be matched although there is plenty of acceptable tolerance. Basically as they act on from the two sides of the load via a rubber interface there is give but I don't want all the power coming from one side. Speed changes do not need to be rapid, 0-full speed can take several seconds and the speed input would be left constant once the machine is going so a torque controlled motor that updates fast enough can, I think, easily keep up and I suspect that the motor drivers speed control will be much less lumpy than mine as it has access to 65536 PWM steps for current/torque control rather than the puny 1000 steps that I have from the outside plus it's had way more development put into it than I ever could.

Speed controlled the machine runs nicely, it's just that the load will never share.

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It's one of the most useless tools I have. It sucks at everything besides that it actually holds the board. The only way it's useable is if you insert TH components and bend the leads so they don't fall out before putting it in holder. Inserting while in holder is a no-go. Not to say soldering under angle means that solder tends to flow downwards, especially on large solder joints. Frankly board just laying on the desk works better.

Are you talking about this specific holder or about holders in general? Personally I find board holders very handy when I use the desoldering pump instead of the gun.
7
Test Equipment / Re: The Siglent SDG2042X Thread
« Last post by chaohwa4 on Today at 01:19:57 pm »
Or buy an RF mixer to run the RF frequency in the GHz range to pair with the signal generator.
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Possibly an approach that turns out to be not smart, but here's how I'd approach it.

Analysis:
- any optical approach (sensors, cameras, ...) Nope, because that just shifts the problem into a different area instead of solving it sufficiently well (the sensors info must be processed and displayed, etc).
- we already have a display available. Let's use it.
- if there's one factor even a cheap scope can measure sufficiently well it's time/frequency, so let's make use of that. After all the order of what we're (mainly) looking for is ridiculously low (< 1kHz).
- we also have or can get very cheaply another strong (in terms of time) player, namely a (dirt cheap) mcu board thingy.
- It seems we actually want to get two pieces of information, a) the effective screen (aka TFT or similar) update rate, 'effective' as in "no matter who's slow, processing, the display itself, or whatever, we just want to see what we effectively get out of it". And b) the time delta between 'signal in' and 'signal shown'.

Implementation:

I'd express the results on the DUT display in the form of what  a scope can measure and show quite well, frequency.
How? Have a cheap MCU generate pulses that a) provide timing information ("what's the current test frequency?") as well as b) pulse trains which "contain" the currently tried frequency information with a sufficiently long pause in between "shots" (> scope's blind time). So if my current "shot" is at say, 42 HZ the pulse train would contain '42' in binary. Assuming an increasing frequency the last one I see well (clearly) is the upper display update boundary. As for (a) a sufficiently precise "ping" of some frequency, but integer fractions or multiples of 10 MHz may come in handy, should do the trick. And again I'd express some info in a pulse train, e.g. a "marker" every so often. Note however that generating pulse trains of hundreds of MHz will require a fast (~ more expensive) MCU or a FPGA, so probably my first approach at a solution of (a) isn't the smartest.

Please note that those two measurements are made separately as is the kind of information we're looking to gather.
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Projects, Designs, and Technical Stuff / Re: Homebrew Lock-In Amplifier
« Last post by Picuino on Today at 01:17:11 pm »
I want start measuring several experiments:
 * Milliohms in pcb traces
 * Coupling between different twisted pairs of cables.
 * Voice with a laser in a crystal. (Microphone)
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Mechanical & Automation Engineering / Paint Bubbles On Snowblower
« Last post by bostonman on Today at 01:16:30 pm »
Since this is a mechanical question, I figured this would be the best place to post my question.

I have an Ariens snowblower that's maybe eight-years-old and I always maintain it along with cleaning the body before storing it for the summer. This year I noticed the paint is bubbling in many areas.

My parents also have an Ariens that's well over twenty-years-old, and, with the exception of paint chips, the paint is immaculate.

They don't live far from me, so we get equal salt poured from the plow trucks, and we both store them the say way in all seasons.

The bubbles can be seen in the attached picture. Most places that are bubbling have a black color that doesn't come off easy.

My question: since both snowblowers are the same company (different vintages though), they see the same type of snow/salt, etc... Does anyone know what is happening with the paint on mine?

My assumption is that it's a factory issue and the paint didn't adhere to the metal, but I'm not a paint person.
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